Grinding 833

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JGC403

JGC403

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This is my first car with an 833. So I am learning as I go along. Transmission is a cast iron case and tail 833 OD.

It grinds when shifting into 3rd, so needs synchros.

Now another problem:
When the clutch is disengaged, it doesn't make any noise, (and it seems like it disengages all the way at the end of the clutch pedals travel). Or when the clutch is engaged and in neutral and stopped. When clutch is engaged and the car coasting it sounds like rocks are inside the transmission. Also when it is in gear 1st, 2nd or 3rd it makes the same noise. But in OD no noise. 3rd gear is the worst, at one point 1st and 2nd didn't make any noise. So it is really inconsistent. HELP.

I'm just trying to come up with ideas. Since its a cast iron case OD, parts were swapped around. What would happen if a smaller bearing retainer was used than the hole in the bell housing?
 
Thats a rear mainshaft bearing
Number 9 in this pic.
Of course the others are going also, but slower.
If you get it soon enough you might not destroy the countershaft needle bearing surfaces.
If you wait, you will need a whole new counter gear because the bearing surfaces are machined into the inside of the ends of the shaft. Counter gear is part number 23, so you can see how expensive that would be.
 

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Thank you. I will order a rebuild kit for it tomorrow and hope that nothing is toast.
 
The sooner you do it, the better your chances are.

Your'e welcome.
 
IMMEDIATELY stop running that trans. Not only could it be the main rear bearing, it could ALSO be a problem with the rollers on the nose of the mainshaft which pilot into the input shaft.

And/ or you could have bearing debri from the failed bearing getting into the cluster needles or the needles mentioned above.

ASK me "how I know?"

The interior of the cluster / it's shaft, as well as the input shaft / main shaft are bearing surfaces, so once they are torn up.....................
 
Yep. Won't be driving it till its fixed. I have another 833 (non-OD) that I'm going to rebuild. Then I'll swap them in a weekend. And take a look at the OD to see how bad it is.
 
I am disassembling the transmission. I bought a book that shows a step by step rebuild of the 833. Never rebuilt one before so I figured it would help.

I got to this step and I don't know what he means. This is what he says in the caption next to the picture: "Once the 3-4 assembly has been removed, take note of the position of the slider because it needs to be assembled in the same position." What does he mean?

833slider_zps090b96dc.jpg
 
The outer peice with the ringed groove for the shift fork is the slider, and it need to be reassembled in the same orientation to the center peice with the grooves where the slider moves back and forth on that center hub.
Just make a small file mark on both peices so you can put it back together in the same place and facing the same direction (Do not let the slider get flipped around either)
 
TrailBeast said:
The outer peice with the ringed groove for the shift fork is the slider, and it need to be reassembled in the same orientation to the center peice with the grooves where the slider moves back and forth on that center hub.
Just make a small file mark on both peices so you can put it back together in the same place and facing the same direction (Do not let the slider get flipped around either)
Click to expand...

OK, thanks.
 
No last question hopefully. How do I get the shaft out that supports the reverse idler gear?
 
JGC403 said:
No last question hopefully. How do I get the shaft out that supports the reverse idler gear?
Click to expand...

Cussing and calling it names seems to help.:D

Reach in from the hole in the case where the input shaft was with a bar or long extension and punch it out towards the rear.
 
Should I use some transmission assembly lube when putting the syncro assembly back together. When I took it apart it looks like there was some anti seize inside the hub and some kind of grease on the dogs. Or assembly it dry?
 
The stuff that looks like antiseize is brass from the syncro rings so no problem.
Yes, just give it a little light grease or even just 90wt on everything that moves like Daliant suggests.
 
Alright everything is together. Wasn't to bad to do.

What do the nuts torque to that hold the operating levers on?

I'm swapping shifter mechanisms. How do I get the press-in style shifter handle out of the mechanism?
 
JGC403 said:
Alright everything is together. Wasn't to bad to do.

What do the nuts torque to that hold the operating levers on?

I'm swapping shifter mechanisms. How do I get the press-in style shifter handle out of the mechanism?
Click to expand...

The nut's need to be tight, but not too tight (Never torqued em):D

The shifter mech, and press in style shifter?
Don't know exactly what you mean on this one.

Pic maybe?
 
Some of the handles are push-in style and some bolt to the shifter mechanism.
 
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