Harmonic Balancer Removal

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pastortom1

pastortom1

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Guys, this will be my first harmonic balancer removal on one of my old Mopars...........never had cause to change one before.

Is there ANYTHING in particular I need to know about these things before I attempt it ?

I have everything out of the way, and the 1-1/8" main retaining bolt is out...ready for a puller.......any specific type of puller recommended ? Any common problems with the 70 Mopars coming off or going back on that I should know of ?

I'm not gonna' proceed until I hear back.......................

Thanks.......... Doc :coffee2:
 
The puller is easy. Pretty self explanetory really. In truth, just make sure the puller's center screw doesnt bugger up the snout of the crank. The kicker is, do you have an installer? I have an old dealer tool to install, and a cheapie remover to pull them. A good puller in many cases doubles as an installer. SO it kind of depends which one you have. Just be careful, dont mess the threads, clean the snout off well and I like to use a dab of oil on the crank, then install it. NOT with a hammer...lol.
 
I would recommend finding a bolt slightly smaller than the threaded bore in the end of the crank that will hit the bottom of the bore. That way you are actually pushing on the crank itself and not the threads in the bore. You are also protecting the end threads from getting damaged.
 
My puller rod is smaller, and works to bottom out inside the bore of the crank just fine.......grade 8 bolts through the puller to the balancer, and I should think that it would come off.........

But it won't............

Do I need an impact wrench on the puller? I really didn't want to pull the radiator if I didn't have to........not enough room for my impact.....I'm afraid I'm gonna snap the puller..........IT'S THAT TIGHT.

Normal? Not? Should I use a claw puller instead of the bolt-up?

And what's this about an installer.........? Why is an installer used ? What purpose does it actually serve ?
 
yea you should use an impact with alot of grease or antisieze. You can do it without but find a way to keep the motor from turning. The bolt style is better than the claw style. if you have an air hammer someone hitting the old balancer with that while you try and turn it may help dont shake the motor too much though. As for installing you dont need an installer if the press is correct. Hit it on until it bottoms out. Make sure the crank is very clean with antisieze on the inside of the balancer and the crank snout with assembly lube on the part that rides on the seal.

If you mic your crank a local engine shop can tell you if the fit is correct if you bring your balancer to them. Also if it goes on hard you could heat it up alittle.
 
This thing is just NOT coming off............

I'll wager they put it on just about dry.............

Safe to put a little heat to it while it's under pressure ?

(come on guys.......I'm drowning in all this coffee.....) :coffee2:
 
I know that mine was really tight coming off. I did use an impact on mine. If it is not coming off with a wrench, you may have to take the radiator out to get the impact on it.
 
Finally got the thing off..........grade 8's worked, with 100# on the impact wrench...........came off slooooooooooooooow............

These guys did not clean up the surfaces very well at all before installation...........really irks me.............

The balancer is definitely counter-weighted.........bolt on type, with an allen bolt (which is also rusted a bit, naturally.........)......got it soaking now................

We're going to remove the counterweight, neutralizing the balancer........we'll post again and let you guys know what happened.

:coffee2: (Guess I'll have another cup while it's soaking....)
 
You will beat the thrust bearing up if you hammer the balancer back on. Use an installer or get a piece of all-thread & nut the same size as the crank threads and make your own installer.


Chuck
 
That's a great idea Chuck..............I'll check the local machine shop to see if they have any threaded rod that size, or sacrifice a bolt........sounds like it would work pretty well, as long as it's good steel.

:blob: (I've had WAY too much coffee............)
 
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