harmonic balancer

-

kick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2022
Messages
95
Reaction score
79
Location
new jersey
Looking for recommendations on my stockish 71 340 build. I don’t mind spending a few bucks but it must put the pulley in the stock location. I was looking at ati but I can’t verify if they have one that puts the pulley in the stock location. The pro race-pro sport looks like it would fit the bill but then I see some issues with those online.
 
I used Pro Street # 64277 & had no alignment issue .

IMG_0197.jpg
 
Some good information here thanks. Whatever I purchase will be sent to my machine shop to verify fit since they still have my crank.
 
Unless I'm racing, turning 7k all the time, i use the regular old doorman 594-21
It's about 7.5 lbs and has timing degree marks to 30 both ways. Never had any problems with them.
 
I also used a trick flow hb, but had pulley alignment issues, (too far in). PBR turned me on to some harmonic balancer shims, which i have not tried yet.
I wound up buying the inexpensive summit one and alignment was correct
 
I used a Summit balancer on Bazza’s 318 (RH drive ‘71 VG Valiant), and it worked out slick. Stock engine, no mods whatsoever.

Kept the OEM balancer for him in case he ever wants to send it out and have it rebuilt.

I “THINK” this is the one I used, but I’m not certain:


Edit; Come to think of it, I did have to change the bolt spacing with this balancer, but that only required elongating one hole.
 
I run an ATI Superdamper on my 340 Sport and on my mini-stock racer. I don't use anything else.
 
Dampers are a great topic - I'm surprised there aren't more threads covering the physics of them!

First off, I'll just say I used this Powerbond damper on the 408 in the avatar. The pulleys all lined up in their stock location using it without issue.
Screenshot_20241217_201116_Chrome.jpg


I had purchased an ATI and another one but sent them back due to their significantly higher weight. This one came in at something like 7-1/2#'s. (I think it was the ATI that was like almost 13#'s!)

So which one would be "better" or more correct? I dunno so I went with the lighter one. Here's why:

As part of normal OEM engine development, you instrument up a crank and run the engine throughout the speed and load ranges to see where the torsional vibrations "light up." Then you design a damper with the proper inertia ring mass and rubber durometer to dampen out those peaks and bring the overall vibrations to an acceptable level. If you have the wrong mass or tuned frequency, you can actually make the torsionals worse!

Since none of us on can do (or do) that development work, we're left choosing a damper from a myriad of them out there with wildly varying engineering properties and no knowledge as to what is needed. The only knowledge we really have is tribal knowledge or someone else's experience with a particular piece. So with no absolute knowledge of something better or worse, I chose to not add some big heavy one out there on the nose of the crank. (I also know this damper is used quite a bit by the guys at a local engine shop.) In the 3 years since this engine went into my car so far it has served me well. Note that I shift it right around 6200 rpm and it traps about the same running 11.1x's et's.

Just my .02 cents as a retired OEM engine engineer!
 
Dampers are a great topic - I'm surprised there aren't more threads covering the physics of them!

First off, I'll just say I used this Powerbond damper on the 408 in the avatar. The pulleys all lined up in their stock location using it without issue.
View attachment 1716341060

I had purchased an ATI and another one but sent them back due to their significantly higher weight. This one came in at something like 7-1/2#'s. (I think it was the ATI that was like almost 13#'s!)

So which one would be "better" or more correct? I dunno so I went with the lighter one. Here's why:

As part of normal OEM engine development, you instrument up a crank and run the engine throughout the speed and load ranges to see where the torsional vibrations "light up." Then you design a damper with the proper inertia ring mass and rubber durometer to dampen out those peaks and bring the overall vibrations to an acceptable level. If you have the wrong mass or tuned frequency, you can actually make the torsionals worse!

Since none of us on can do (or do) that development work, we're left choosing a damper from a myriad of them out there with wildly varying engineering properties and no knowledge as to what is needed. The only knowledge we really have is tribal knowledge or someone else's experience with a particular piece. So with no absolute knowledge of something better or worse, I chose to not add some big heavy one out there on the nose of the crank. (I also know this damper is used quite a bit by the guys at a local engine shop.) In the 3 years since this engine went into my car so far it has served me well. Note that I shift it right around 6200 rpm and it traps about the same running 11.1x's et's.

Just my .02 cents as a retired OEM engine engineer!
What I don't understand is why someone would buy a lightened crankshaft only to bolt a 13 lb balancer on the front of it. Losing 5 lbs off the rotating assembly has to be worth something, right?
 
Looking for recommendations on my stockish 71 340 build. I don’t mind spending a few bucks but it must put the pulley in the stock location. I was looking at ati but I can’t verify if they have one that puts the pulley in the stock location. The pro race-pro sport looks like it would fit the bill but then I see some issues with those online.

Just going through this getting ready to rebuild a 69 340, hopefully after Christmas. There are basically 4 different internally balanced harmonic balancers: 65 down 273 and poly 318; 66-69 273, 318, and 340; 70-71 318 and 340 (drivers side timing marks); and 72 340 and 72 and up 318 (symmetric pulley bolt pattern). I am not counting cast crank weighted or 318 auto trans dampers. I have a NOS 65 down, an original 66 273 Commando, rebuilt 66-69 340, Fluid damper, BHJ 66-69 340 E-Performance damper. The plan is to find true TDC on this short block then check timing marks and pulley alignment on all the dampers with a cast iron water pump.
 
-
Back
Top