head flow experts need opinions on intake flow

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mderoy340

mderoy340

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I picked up an Edelbrock Magnum head 5.9 with 11:1 Ross flat tops, M1 single plane intake. Port matching intake and exhaust and wondering what improvements need to be done with the chambers. Should I unshroud the intake a little?
I'm also pulling the 380HP hyd roller cam and going solid roller in the mid [email protected] range.

magnum eddy head1.jpg


magnum eddy head2.jpg
 
mderoy340 said:
Yes. Mild cleanup
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That actually does more than any one thing. IMO the chambers look pretty good. There's only a "short run" of the intake valve getting real close to that outside wall, so I would think shrouding would be minimum if at all. That's just the opinion of an untrained eye. But again, the bowl work outweighs all of it speaking in terms of "one" piece at the time.
 
With the experience I have with the edelbrocks,all I would do in the chambers is lightly soften the edge.
The bowls are where I would spend some time.
 
wher
64mopar said:
With the experience I have with the edelbrocks,all I would do in the chambers is lightly soften the edge.
The bowls are where I would spend some time.
Click to expand...
where`s pittsburg racer when we need him ??
I`d unshroud the valves out to the edge of the head gasket , (cyl. bore) , ''smoothly'' , mindfull of compression loss ...
 
mderoy340 said:
I picked up an Edelbrock Magnum head 5.9 with 11:1 Ross flat tops, M1 single plane intake. Port matching intake and exhaust and wondering what improvements need to be done with the chambers. Should I unshroud the intake a little?
I'm also pulling the 380HP hyd roller cam and going solid roller in the mid [email protected] range.

View attachment 1716107388

View attachment 1716107389
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I wasn't going to reply ...because I'm not an expert.

Notable-Look at your intake valves and see the clean sides of them that's where the fuel is literally coming around the valve. So that's something to observe with the valve out BUT YOU NEED TO MARK IT AND THE CHAMBER which way it was facing exactly, WITH A LINE...so that it will seal again once re installed. The fuel likes that side. Check the stems for star looking wear patterns. Are they all looking like that on the cyl wall side. Etc
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I wasn't going to reply ...because I'm not an expert.

Notable-Look at your intake valves and see the clean sides of them that's where the fuel is literally coming around the valve. So that's something to observe with the valve out BUT YOU NEED TO MARK IT AND THE CHAMBER which way it was facing exactly, WITH A LINE...so that it will seal again once re installed. The fuel likes that side. Check the stems for star looking wear patterns. Are they all looking like that on the cyl wall side. Etc
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Glad you responded. I'll mark valve position before removing.
 
famous bob said:
wher

where`s pittsburg racer when we need him ??
I`d unshroud the valves out to the edge of the head gasket , (cyl. bore) , ''smoothly'' , mindfull of compression loss ...
Click to expand...
Not worried about loosing a little compression. I had 195psi crank comp with a MP 380HP roller cam retarded to a 110 ICL and .057 thick head gasket. I plan on using a felpro 1008 .039" when it all goes together again.
 
famous bob said:
wher

where`s pittsburg racer when we need him ??
I`d unshroud the valves out to the edge of the head gasket , (cyl. bore) , ''smoothly'' , mindfull of compression loss ...
Click to expand...


I would do the same. Lay it’s out with blueing and a properly secured head gasket size that you will be running and scribe a line. Then gently lay it back with a couple old valves protecting the valve seats. You do NOT have to push it up to the scribed line. Leave yourself a safety area. Excuse the roughness of this picture but this is the area I would lay back

8BBA5825-257E-4920-B719-03797692A041.jpeg
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I wasn't going to reply ...because I'm not an expert.

Notable-Look at your intake valves and see the clean sides of them that's where the fuel is literally coming around the valve. So that's something to observe with the valve out BUT YOU NEED TO MARK IT AND THE CHAMBER which way it was facing exactly, WITH A LINE...so that it will seal again once re installed. The fuel likes that side. Check the stems for star looking wear patterns. Are they all looking like that on the cyl wall side. Etc
Click to expand...
Don’t the valves rotate while running? Serious question.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I would do the same. Lay it’s out with blueing and a properly secured head gasket size that you will be running and scribe a line. Then gently lay it back with a couple old valves protecting the valve seats. You do NOT have to push it up to the scribed line. Leave yourself a safety area. Excuse the roughness of this picture but this is the area I would lay back

View attachment 1716107476
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Will do. Thanks for the visual.
 
Like i said i never played with a magnum head but the LA head LOVES a 15 degree top cut. I would add one if possible
 
I did similar with a speed zaster , posted it... and no one noticed. I bought them just to experiment on. If I waste one of them figuring something out I just buy one head, who cares. Cheap cheap


20211103_160809.jpg


20211110_184653.jpg
 
TT5.9mag said:
Don’t the valves rotate while running? Serious question.
Click to expand...
No.

Only if there's a rotators. You may see some rotation on stock low spring pressure stuff...BUT Otherwise, no. With a heavy performance oriented spring..the pressure is enough to not allow spin. when the valve doesn't spin, the guides clearance allows movement from forward thrust of the rocker actuation and a seat/valve wear pattern that is no longer round is hammered/formed.
The exhaust valves are really good example here with the Performance Engine ...spin the valve 90° then put it back on its seat and shine a light through it and you'll see light on each side. More heat...more distortion.
This is why I made sure to recommend marking the valve so that he may put his heads back together and not have any problems
 
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pittsburghracer said:
Did you ever do a before and after flow test on it?
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it picked up about 8 or so cfm, maybe 12
I'll have to check notes. But yes it helped .550 and up. May have had an impact on the three or 400 number that I can't remember.
I think this may have been one of the heads with the core shift because the short turn is not kicked out very far at all on the dog Lakes side of the bowl. One thing though is it likes to be pushed out round as opposed to be pushed out and then angled over.. and all I can do is directly relate that to speed of wide stream vs narrow faster steam... I can't forget that's connected directly to the current port shape
 
For the reason that the spring pressure do not allow the valves to spin, seeing wear patterns on valve stems that look like stars is indicative of valve spinning AKA encountering valve float...and is a bad thing.
 
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