Head Work

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roccodart440

roccodart440

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I am doing a head over for my dart. At this point I plan to have it hot tanked and magged, cut .100 off od it and gasket match the ports.

What else can I do to it? Heard there were some valve and valve spring tricks as well as some porting that can be done.

I'm all ears.
 
Get the stainless oversize valves from ebay,and run some 340 springs. Get a CC kit and CC the head so you know what kind of comp you will be running instead of just cutting .1 and hoping for the best. Leave the floor alone,clean up the casting flash/flaws, blend the bowl, Maybe raise the roof a little and gasket match.
 
Engine Builder is the fellow that sells the 1.70/1.44 valves. He sells off Ebag as well. Sometimes he has the 340 valve springs too. I agree with Grinder about ccing the head. You may find you want to take the .100 off the block instead of the head or a combination of head/block. .150 is getting into the "new" push rod turf but I have several engines that have that much off of them.
Frank
 
Back me up on this Frank, but I think the stockers were in: 1.63 and ex:1.36 or something like that.
 
Interesting. Now my understanding is the slant six has issues on the intake side, not the exhaust. Wonder why you can't go even bigger with the intake valve but leave the exhaust alone assuming that clearance wise you have .270 to play with.
 
I use Ford "300" valves in a lot of my heads. They are 1.78/1.50 and are the largest valves you can put in. However they are not a drop in as the guide Diameter is different. The problem is deshrouding the valves with the larger ones. Also you MUST have at least .060 over bore or you have to notch the cylinder. I like .085 or .105 over on a slant engine.
Grinder I got your back buddy.
Frank
 
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