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needsaresto

needsaresto

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So I know this is a dead horse but...

After reading several threads regarding A bodies and the fitment of headers,it seems to me that there is only one real choice available to us as A body owners.And that is TTI or CPPA(same thing).Now the fact that there is only one really good header that fits is probably why they cost $700 and even so not everyone is a fan of tti's.Well,you cant please everyone.

So heres what I want to know.

Has anyone tried making thier own headers and what results did you get?What sort of kit did you use(if any) and where did you get it?

Has anyone tried O ringing around the exhaust ports and using copper gaskets?

How about the flowmaster ball and socket connecters? Has anyone tried these and what results have you had?I have a set of these and they seem to be very well made,but I just havent got around to it yet..

There are several types of locking bolts on the market for headers.Do they help?
 
I don't know about TTI's being the only game in town for A-bodies. The only advantage they have is not wrapping under the center link of the steering, seems folks have as many other clearance issues with them as with other brands.

I am using Hedman's and for less than half the cost with ceramic coating or 1/5th the cost painted they fit with no issues in my Barracuda. They have been installed with manual and with power steering and they clear everything and I have not had any leak issues in 15k miles since installing them. The wrapping under the center link has only been an issue if I pull into my garage to quickly, large lip from the pavement to the concrete of the garage.
 
cppa and tti are not the same header or company.

Welding your own headers are hard, fustrating and extremely time consuming.

A thick flange is all you need for a leak free header flange. If it is not thick, tighten gingerly and recheck once in awhile.
No need to O ring.

I have headman eliete headers with the ball and flange set up.
LOVE IT!!!!!!
Tighten up well. check on it a few times after intinal install. It's gotta be tight.

Never needed locking header bolts. Post on what you find.
 
rumblefish360 said:
cppa and tti are not the same header or company.

Welding your own headers are hard, fustrating and extremely time consuming.

A thick flange is all you need for a leak free header flange. If it is not thick, tighten gingerly and recheck once in awhile.
No need to O ring.

I have headman eliete headers with the ball and flange set up.
LOVE IT!!!!!!
Tighten up well. check on it a few times after intinal install. It's gotta be tight.

Never needed locking header bolts. Post on what you find.
Click to expand...


There was a set of bolts I was looking at had a set screw deal in the middle of the bolt head.Cant remember the name..kinda pricey too.A friend of mine was always retightening his header bolts..

The reason I did this post was I read some other posts about headers.It seemed to me that not many guys have good experiences with headers,so thus the questions.


The headers I have are hedmans and I bought the ball and socket flange kit.I plan on cutting the old flange off and welding on the ball and sockets.At least thats one potential leak taken care of.What about the exhaust port gaskets?I planned on using copper gaskets and simply ensuring the flanges are straight.And yes,the headers will go in when the motor is pulled and built.
 
Believe it or not, I have had excellent long lasting results with that "JunK" peaple say come with the headers. It has been 2 years with those gaskets from headman. I never had a need fpr copper. Mr. Gasket Ultra seals have been the best I have used when I have had the need for replacemnets. Even doubled up.

I know the bolts you speak of. But I can not think of there name.
 
I tried copper and they leaked really bad. The raised boss on the copper gasket does not line up with the raised boss on the header flange very well. I have been using two Fel-Pro header gaskets per side with no leak issues and have not had any issues with bolts loosening, it's 15k miles and counting.

FWIW, the $135 painted Hedmans I purchased in 05 have a 3" collector with the ball socket style flange and included the socket reducer to 2.5" pipe size. They also came with header bolts with a reduced size head that are about the only thing that will fit in all the bolt holes. None of the fancy locking header bolts ca be used in all the holes on these headers.
 
What are the options if I want 1 7/8 headers? Choices seem to be reduced.
 
Greg, I think your down to headman Hustles and Hooker Super Comps. TTI makes a stepped header that will end up at that diameter, but I think it's a W-2 header only.
MoPar used to sell kits to fab yourself in many diameters. Do a search for part numbers in old books and as the dealer with a locator to find them.
 
Those bolts with the set screw are junk. Used them in a friends car and were not worth the money or hassle.

I love my TTIs, fit great, look great and you can get the starter in and out with out dropping the center link and ties rod and pulling the header.

CPPA is no longer around, I believe they turned in to TTI. I know the old 2" big block CPPA headers are the same as the 2" TTI big block headers.
 
I used the Heddman 1 7/8 headers with a sub flange and the ones for standard heads. They fit great and since they come apart I could remove them without even jacking up the car.

Since they are big and one tube goes outside the frame rail they do cause some clearance issues, but not in the chassis itself. Plus the #1 tube drops straight down and goes under the control arm so road clearance can also be an issue.

I have also had some issues with steering linkage, like the pitman arm nut. But this is slight and I did move my engine back 3/4 of an inch with only changing the #1 tube to clear the steering box.
 
dgc333 said:
I tried copper and they leaked really bad. The raised boss on the copper gasket does not line up with the raised boss on the header flange very well. I have been using two Fel-Pro header gaskets per side with no leak issues and have not had any issues with bolts loosening, it's 15k miles and counting.

FWIW, the $135 painted Hedmans I purchased in 05 have a 3" collector with the ball socket style flange and included the socket reducer to 2.5" pipe size. They also came with header bolts with a reduced size head that are about the only thing that will fit in all the bolt holes. None of the fancy locking header bolts ca be used in all the holes on these headers.
Click to expand...

Hi all!Havent been around in a while so I thought Id catch up on my reading.:)


Ya ,my hedmans dont have the ball and socket.They are an older pair I got for cheap($50).They were never used.Thats why I got the flowmaster collector kit.

Sounds like regular header bolts with lock washers(will they fit?) and doubled up paper gaskets will work as well as anything.
 
My Hedman's went in easily and fit great. The literature that comes with them indicates you have to modify the auto trans shifter lever, but I didn't have to touch mine. The center link is easy enough to remove and reinstall to allow the headers to fit around it. No issues with leaks either.
 
i am not a fan of paper header gaskets, i like mrgasket ultra seals alot more, have never hade any problems with them, but thats just me
 
duster340 said:
i am not a fan of paper header gaskets, i like mrgasket ultra seals alot more, have never hade any problems with them, but thats just me
Click to expand...

I seconded that! The paper units will do the job. I have sets last a long time, and some burn out quick for some reason. The replacements are the Ultra Seals all the time. Excellent gaskets IMO.
 
My son and I looked at a number of header brands and even tried a set that didnt work the way we thought they should have. So what we ended up doing is ordering a box of parts and pieces which includes 3/8" flanges. Yes we know that its going to take time to get a set like we want but isnt that the fun of building a car?
Once the headers are completed....they will be ceramic coated..

Rick and Rickey Jr.
 
When I change headers it will be too Hedman Elites with Ultra Seal gaskets and ARP header bolts. I currently have Flowtech with the paper gaskets that came with the set. They dont leak and have never crushed any of the tubes that hang below the centerlink. However, when the engine was out being built my dad and his friend, I was still away in the Army at the time, were pushing it into the garage and they ended up crushing one of the tubes.
 
for sealing issues look into "remflex" brand headers gaskets. they cost about the same as others but are quite thick. i can't remember what gaskets i have up top, but they have been there for 2+ years and don't leak. ultra seals, maybe??
 
The best gasket I have found is the Percy carbon gaskets. They are a carbon felt material with a steel core. I just used these on two different engine swaps and they seal awsome. The one set of headers I installed in my Duster only have a 3/16" flange and I drive the car every day to work and have 2600 miles on it so far and no leaks.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294921566+400251+4294908128+115&autoview=sku

Chuck
 
Chuck's right. Percy's do the trick. Had a ***** of a time with the wife's Dart continually springing header leaks. Found those and now I don't have to listen to her or the car...

:cheers:

Ray
 
Rays340 said:
Chuck's right. Percy's do the trick. Had a ***** of a time with the wife's Dart continually springing header leaks. Found those and now I don't have to listen to her or the car...

:cheers:

Ray
Click to expand...


Then thier well worth it...!!!!
 
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