Heavy Duty Alternator

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MBigDaddyM

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The block in my 75 Dart Sport cracked during the freeze, the replacement 318 is out of a 78 Aspen and has the HD alternator, can I run this in a 75 Dart or do I need swap for the standard alternator on the cracked 318? Does anyone know the replacement cost of the HD alternator? The standard alternator is usually 40-60 dollars. -BD
 
I put an alternator for a 85 New Yorker on my 69. You have to ground one of the field terminals to the body of teh alternator. It is also recommended that you upgrade the wire going from the alternator to the ammeter.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pr...BAR&MfrPartNumber=1866001&PartType=11&PTSet=A

The one on the donor motor may be similar.

P.S. Just checked, same alternator.
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I would not run the 100 Amp or higher version. It would most likely be too much anyway and it is larger and heavier.

Why did this happen?????
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If its the big 100amp type, I would buy a volt meter, and do the amp gauge bypass as shown at

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

use a 6 or 8 ga wire for the alternator to the starter relay.

The old alternators that look like your original type really just SUCK. your headlights will dim at idle. just plain junk. The 100amp type is a delco design and is a much better design and doesn't have these issues.
 
Not true! Mine works great and will outlast the big model.

You do realize that they use the Chrysler alternators on aircraft, right? they are extremely dependable.
 
mopar340dave said:
Not true! Mine works great and will outlast the big model.

You do realize that they use the Chrysler alternators on aircraft, right? they are extremely dependable.
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ever checked the idle output on one of these alternators? Worst of any alternator I've ever seen.

Crappy type with low idle output:
1866002-1.jpg


Delco design found on Police and H/D vehicles. I personally have never seen one of these fail (where the other type I have seen)
1866006-1.jpg


other than originality, I see NO advantage to keeping the top type of alternator. I even have the 65 amp 80's version and it can barely keep up with the engine and the headlights on at the same time.
 
If you wanna swap in a better alternator, use the Nippondenso that the factory used. That giant one is just plain silly! Not JMO, read.


You could also swap in the later Chrysler-built alternators, we advise against it. The 100-amp unit is a heavy beast requiring special brackets, and while the later one is viable (V-belt pulley is available) but still not the easiest one to deal with since it’s almost a one-off piece. The best alternator swap is the small, light, Japanese Nintendo (okay, Nippondenso), unit that was phased in during the late 1980s. While radically different at first glance, a closer inspection will reveal some similarities. See photos 10 and 11 for swap information. http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

P.S. I think there is something wrong with your set-up. Mine stays just to the right of the center mark at idle and jumps to the right when above idle.
 
I don't like the denso's much either. An engine I bought for my car had one, sat in a junkyard for less than 6 months and that baby was seized. I don't want to use the big heavy beast either but I'm probably going to go with a GM 12si or CS-121 or 130 alternator as they are decent pieces. I'll be making some brackets for one of those alts.

I have the amp gauge bypass...no stock dash anyway...and my headlights have relays that are powered from the starter relay (where is where the alternator power goes now) and I still have dimming. My engine idles solidly at 800rpm. (its a 360 with magnum heads) My dash voltmeter shows roughly 12v at idle with the lights on and about 14.3 (which is what it should be) at any point above idle.
 
Well, that Nippondenso alternator could have been seized before it ever made it to the junk yard. All alternators fail eventually. I have been happy with the 85 vintage 65 amp unit but I do admit that the headlights do dim slightly at idle. I never considered it a problem and it was a huge improvement over the stock unit. If it was actually discharging at idle I would be concerned. I believe the big difference is the addition of the positive and negative rectifiers that contain the diodes.

I will be doing the same basic wiring changes that you did to yours along with rewiring the whole car. The car is now 40 years old so it is time....

P.S. Nice Duster.
 
I would get a discharge if i had headlights+engine+anything else (like wipers) running at the same time. Only at idle though.
 
I can see how, if it is your daily driver, this might be an issue.
Oddly, my 74 Dart Sport never did this. I had a stereo with amps and that thing always had power, even at idle...weird.

P.S. I'll probably change mine out in favor of this one so that I will have a little more room under the hood. I plan on installing a twin turbo set-up on a 318, so space will be fairly tight.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pr...=ATR&MfrPartNumber=A54902&PartType=11&PTSet=A
 
I have one of those in my garage...and its the siezed one. The footprint on these ones is actually bigger than the OEM mopar alternator.

For a small alternator, you'd want to swap a v-belt pulley on to a CS-121 Delco. This is what powermaster sells as a race alternator.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294880793+400345+4294880709+115&autoview=sku

they're tiny. get one off a late 80's or early 90's cavalier or sunbird with the 4cyl and buy an $8 v-belt pulley.
 
How can the Nipp be bigger? Do you mean the mount arms stick out more? The case is less than 5" in diameter.

P.S. I just won't put a GM product on my Mopar...not gonna happen. No Ford rear end either!
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arms are bigger and the depth is also greater. Since a lot of mopars came with the aforementioned delco alternators in the 70's and 80's, I would surely use one. You know those denso alternators are japanese and essentially a toyota part (toyota/denso/aisin/sumitomo are in bed together). The delco is a US part. I fail to see the difference in using one over the other.

I also have a lot of first hand experience with these alternators. I've owned a lot of GM cars (my daily driver is one too) and they work very well.
 
I see your point, but it's just a personal preference. I admit I didn't realize the apparent hypocrisy. Delco, to me, has always been a primarilly GM company. I like the way the Nippondenso's look a whole lot better than the GM appearing Delco's. At least the Nippondenso looks more like the original and my 2000 Chrysler and 2004 Dodge both use versions of the Nippondenso.

P.S. The Chrysler has almost 130,000 miles on it and the original alternator....the Dodge only has about 60,000 and again, no problems.
 
they also make these...the CS130D
n1621-6-5_ang.jpg


not too much of a difference in looks!

Delco was owned by GM until the Mid/late 90's and the alternator business got spun off and became Delphi. Some new dodge trucks even come with axles made by AAM (American Axle) which used to be part of GM as well. GM has made a lot of good stuff...if they were bad why would people always put delco alternators on tractors?
 
I always assumed it was the simple 1 wire hook up.
Is that one a Delco? or a differnt Nippondenso style?

P.S. OK, I see it's a Delco. That one I like but I think I'll still use the Nippondenso. I think the Nippondenso is smaller.
 
you can run one or three wire hookup on a delco. I recommend 3 wire so it fits a cars need better...not required on a tractor.

the 130 in cs-130 is the case diameter in MM. so 130mm is about 5.11". Not much difference and there are plenty of different bolt hole clockings for versatility.
 
I was just looking at Advance Auto's site and I was hoping they had both in stock at the store here....they have neither. I think, when the time comes, I will see if i can't get one of each and see how the mounting works out. Either one would be a nice upgrade. I really like the design of the aluminum case with internal fan(s). It looks similar to the original and it does not look like a typical GM alternator, plus it's small.
 
Tuff stuff makes 60 and 100 Amp squareback style alternators in internal or external regulator versions
 
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