help 1964 Slant 6 tune ups specs

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cchrishefish

cchrishefish

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I just ordered a tach and dwell meter, and I want to get anal retentive and set my idle and high idle to the right specs. I do not have them under the hood. What is the idle supposed to be set for an automatic car? Also, what is the high idle setting, and does it need to be on the second step of the high idle cam? Also, my car has updated electronic ignition, what is the spark plug gap supposed to be?
 
Looks like a spammer on my new thread, I have never seen this before.
 
Just guessing but idle is likely in the 600 rpm range. For setting choke idle I always unscrew the choke idle screw and put it on the smallest step of the plate and tighten the screw until idle just barely speeds up. Make sure you do this with the engine warm.

Plug gap will depend on what electronic ignition and plugs you are using. on the issue of the spammer, I believe FABO had a virus or hacker yesterday most threads had some wierd spam on them.
 
What carb do you have ? Holley=standard,(carb not tranny) curb idle=550 with head lights on.Fast idle 700 Automatic trans
Holley= CAP(Cleaner air package) curbe idle=650 headlights on.Fast idle= engine hot,screw on 2nd highest step of cam=1550
BBS carb= auto trans,550 headlights on.Fast=700
BBS carb=CAP auto trans,curb=650 headlights on Fast=1550(This is all from a 66 service manual)
Mopar electronic ignition plug gap .035
 
Forgot to say that I will check my 63 service manual(It's at work) to see if any difference from the 66 but I don't think so.Sorry don't have a 64 manual,You get the picture...........
 
Give me a few minutes I have a book for our cars.
 
Mopar electronic ignition plug gap .035 brass feeler gauge for the air gap.008 on some slant's.
Depending on the ingition JMO. What
 
I checked the 63 service Manual and the only difference from the 66 Manual was the fast idle speed of the BBS carb was 1400 rpm. All other specs the same.No CAP in 63 book.
 
If you don't mind deviating from the factory manual, many people notice better idling and gas mileage with more than factory advance. Depends on your ignition (hopefully electronic) and the O/F ratio of the carb.
 
I appreciate the help, I have been doing a lot to this car lately. The tach/ dwell did not arrive yet. The car has the electronic ignition conversion with the Carter 1 barrel. I am on vacation and the car is getting some extra attention along with the house. I just installed new door weatherstrip and wing vent outer perimeter weatherstrip. In addition, I began my bumper jack restoration project, love the results of the drill wire brush and Eastwood rust converter.
 
Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Get the three books described in this thread as quickly as possible.
 
Thank for the link Dan! I had the car out yesterday, it was 80 deg F here. The car brakes so much better now. I had 3 different people asking a lot of questions about my car in only 3 hours.
 
slantsixdan said:
Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Get the three books described in this thread as quickly as possible.
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I see 2 different listings for the NGK spark plugs per Slant6Dan's link.

One is NGK 3459 and the other is NGK 7917, both of these refer to NGK # ZFR5N, per the link. Can anyone out there help me choose the correct one for street driving, and is there a difference? These both come up in the Rock auto part search mode, for ZFR5N.
 
Two stock numbers depending on which country's NGK warehouse is supplying the plug. ZFR5N = ZFR5N = ZFR5N. Buy whichever is priced lower on RockAuto.
 
Thanks again Dan, I will get them local to save the shipping, Advance has the NGK 3459 in stock.
 
cchrishefish said:
I see 2 different listings for the NGK spark plugs per Slant6Dan's link.

One is NGK 3459 and the other is NGK 7917, both of these refer to NGK # ZFR5N, per the link. Can anyone out there help me choose the correct one for street driving, and is there a difference? These both come up in the Rock auto part search mode, for ZFR5N.
Click to expand...


If anyone has a picture of how the upgraded fuel line looks under the hood on the slant 6, it would be highly appreciated.
 
I was looking at my upper radiator hose while I was working on the car. I noticed a little leaking from the upper radiator hose after changing the thermostat. I would like to replace it, but there seems to be so many different part numbers on rock auto. I think the one on the car is the Gates flexible hose. Is this the best choice for my 1964 Slant 6?
 
I don't like the flexible "one size fits all hoses". They look a bit Frankenstein and don't have as smooth a flow. On my 64 Slant Six, the upper radiator hose is just a simple 90 deg bend in one plane, with each leg very short (<10"). However, yours may vary since I don't have the factory radiator and I think the upper tube location varied w/ AC and such. If like mine, just go to any auto parts and ask for the cheapest 1.5" D hose with a 90 deg bend and cut off what you don't need. If you do the lower hose, look up a post I made. I forgot the number, maybe Dayco 70776.
 
I was leaning on get the cut to fit. Thanks for the input.
 
Mine came from NAPA and they let me walk in back and look at there stock and the part number is 777 I will add a picture in about 5 minutes, keme that long to find it, It works perfectly and looks great.. I will be right back :glasses7:
 
Here it is before I removed the old soft upper hose, I think I cut about 3'' off for a perfect fit and it has been there fot over 15,000 miles :smile: You can see in in my avatar.
 

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That looks nice, I really appreciate the help from members like you. That is why the forum is so great!
 
I completed the install of the NGK plugs, echlin rotor, and Standard Dist cap today. I forgot how hard it is to get the cap clip in, on the left side next to the oil filter, I used a med size screwdriver to press it in place which made the job easy. My car has a simple electronic distributor from a previous owner. I do not have a lot of knowledge about distributors, but it is connected to a blaster coil, with a firewall mounted ballast. My question is: What is the 1/2 inch plastic round washer that sits on top of the distributor shaft, just below the rotor? I am guessing som kind of pick up?
 
Sounds like what you've got is a conventional (points type) distributor into which has been installed a Pertronix electronic conversion. The plastic wheel contains six magnets; if you lift it out of the distributor you'll find it's sitting atop a hexagonal metal cam which used to bump breaker points open before the points were replaced with the magnetic switch and the cam was covered with the magnet wheel.
 
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