HELP!!!273 rocker shaft and rocker install

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coffeedart67

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Which way do the rocker shafts go on a 273 solid cam? Also I have one rocker that is tight against the pushrod and valve and still have about 3/16 of inch to go before the shaft is seated, the cup of the pushrod is hitting the rocker. I am using a ISKY e-4 cam and stock solid pushrods. Almost thinking of giving up the solid and going to a hydraulic, any suggestions for a complete kit (cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker shafts, and rocker arms).
Thanks
Aaron
Forgot to add 67 273, 2 barrel, automatic
 
the shafts will have a notch on one end....

driver side ...notch down and toward front of car...

passender side..notch down and toward the fire wall

make sure all your adjusters are backed off..
 
Be sure the pushrod is seated in the cup of the lifter
 
Do just as aarcuda says and be mindful that there is no give with a solid lifter, so as you "slowly and evenly" tighten the shaft retaining bolts, several valves will be pushed open because those lifters are on the high side of the lobe.
 
oldmanrick said:
do just as aarcuda says and be mindful that there is no give with a solid lifter, so as you "slowly and evenly" tighten the shaft retaining bolts, several valves will be pushed open because those lifters are on the high side of the lobe.
Click to expand...

this
 
Got the shafts on right, one more question for those that have used the isky cam, will any grinding need to be done on the stock rocker arms? or is just kind of hit and miss? I am on hold for the time being as I need to get a thread chaser for the rocker shaft bolts. On a positive note I did find the fiber washer for my oil filter adapter, it had fallen out of the gasket set box.
Thanks
Aaron
Now a couple of potentially stupid questions, are there specific rockers for the intake and exhaust or are they all the same(I kind of got them mixed up in disassembly), and all the pushrods should be the same length, correct?

Trying to wrap my head around this. If the pushrod cup is hitting the rocker arm now, it will still hit when the shaft is torqued down, won't it?
Read memikes 273 build thread, and it got me to thinking maybe the rocker arm is hitting the spring/retainer, never thought to check that, and it's supper time/mythbuster time, so will check that tomorrow. My brother told me to use the rockers off of his 340(converted to solid cam), they appear to be clearanced already, but I am kind of stuck on using as many of the parts that my Dart was born with. His rockers are cast iron stockers, so they would have to be 273 correct?
 
there is no right or left rockers with the 273 rockers...

what kind of springs and retainers are you using?....if they are stock then you should have no clearance problem...if they are not stock ..then it has to be checked...

as you are tightening the shafts down...guide each pushrod on to the adjuster on the rocker...

as said above some lifter are going to be on the nose of the cam..and the pushrod is going to be sticking way up...as you tighten the shafts..that valve will open...
 
Sorry, I was way overthinking this. This is my first solid cam, and I was stupidly thinking that valve lash was measured at the lobes highest lift, which was causing all kinds of problems in my head. Stock springs and retainers. Will do it that way tomorrow.
Thanks
 
Way to go. Just take your time and it will work out. Although i have not personally had a 273, from what i've heard, the E-4 is a great cam for that engine. Have fun and Good luck :thumleft:.
 
I just caught up with your post. Let us know how you come out. When I built mine, I changed so many things the rocker angles didn't look right so I got longer push rods and shimmed the rocker shafts to correct the problem. I made it work but never found the cause of the problem. tmm
 
Got the valves adjusted last night, am going to go recheck them tonight, no major problems, looks like everything clear ok. Thought I had a problem, brought the timing mark up on the harmonic balancer and the two valves I needed to adjust where on the top of the lobe, almost started to pull the timing cover, then turned the engine over until the timing mark lined up again and all was right, thought maybe I had misaligned the dots on the timing gears(it is cam gear dot at 6 o'clock and crank gear at 12 o'clock, correct?). One question though should all of the adjusters be about the same height? I have one that is considerably higher than the rest. I set the lash at .022, cam calls for .020 hot, somehwere on here I read add .002 for cold, right? I will reset when I get the engine warm.
I can't thank you guys enough!!!!!!
Aaron
 
OldmanRick said:
This may help...
Click to expand...

attachment.php



That chart works great on V8's

I use what is known as the "EOIC" method, which works on everything from Briggs & Stratton to turbo compound Prattt & Whitney radial engines.

What you do is, turn/ bump the engine until............

The EXHAUST just starts to OPEN, and you set the intake on that cylinder.

You turn the engine until....................

the INTAKE opens, then going closed and "nearly" CLOSED, and adjust the exhaust on that cylinder.

You can go in firing order, or start at the front of one head and go to the rear, which is what I usually do.

What do you have for heads? Aluminum vs Iron heads affect cold/ hot adjustment

From Crane Cams:

[ame]http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/mech-lift.pdf[/ame]

Iron block, Iron heads, add .002"

Iron block, aluminum heads, subtract .006
 
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