Help getting flange off??!!

[Troub]

need some help. Replacing the leaking pinion seal on the ole 7 1/4 diff. Finally broke the nut free, (geez what a pain) but can't get the flange off to access the seal. Do I need a pulley like remover tool? If so I don't see where on the flange it would have a good grip. Help please?

 

[Alaskan_TA]

When you say 'flange', do you mean the yoke?

If so, you can use a steering wheel puller or a similar type puller with two bolts in the threaded u-joint keeper holes.

 

[67Dart273]

WARNING!!!! You need to access a shop manual, which is available at MyMopar for free. No I do not work there, but some of the manuals posted there came from the efforts of the guys on here

That pinon nut MUST be installed with a lot of force. You MUST come up with appropriate tools, even if home made. And some rear axles have what is known as a "compression sleeve" (it compresses and CHANGES LENGTH) on the pinion.

WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? it means that now that you have the nut off, when you put the nut back on, you can EASILY overtighten it and REDUCE BEARING RUNNING END PLAY which could/ will quickly ruin the pinion bearing.

You CAN NOT just "wrench" the nut up tight IF that axle uses a compression sleeve in the pinion setup

 

[Alaskan_TA]

Quite the write up there.

No compression sleeve on a 7 1/4" though, actually reading the FSM helps with little details like that. ;-)

 

[Troub]

Quite the write up there.

No compression sleeve on a 7 1/4" though, actually reading the FSM helps with little details like that. ;-)

WARNING!!!! You need to access a shop manual, which is available at MyMopar for free. No I do not work there, but some of the manuals posted there came from the efforts of the guys on here

That pinon nut MUST be installed with a lot of force. You MUST come up with appropriate tools, even if home made. And some rear axles have what is known as a "compression sleeve" (it compresses and CHANGES LENGTH) on the pinion.

WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? it means that now that you have the nut off, when you put the nut back on, you can EASILY overtighten it and REDUCE BEARING RUNNING END PLAY which could/ will quickly ruin the pinion bearing.

You CAN NOT just "wrench" the nut up tight IF that axle uses a compression sleeve in the pinion setup

Yep, I'm aware of the pinion nut torque importance.

 

[Troub]

When you say 'flange', do you mean the yoke?

If so, you can use a steering wheel puller or a similar type puller with two bolts in the threaded u-joint keeper holes.

That's what I needed to know. Thanks Alaskan.

 

[Coronet 500]

If your seal has a spring inside pack that groove with grease to hold it in place when you knock it place. I've done seals when they hit the seat and hit it a couple more times to be sure and had that spring pop out.

 

[69FBCuda]

Spray the threads with some wd40 and let it set for awhile, then you should be able to tap it off from the backside of the yoke

 

[Troub]

Spray the threads with some wd40 and let it set for awhile, then you should be able to tap it off from the backside of the yoke

Got it off with a steering wheel puller, just had to spend a buck on longer bolts. Worked perfect but now another issue.....I included pics that show what I assume to be the seal but it doesn't act like one. It has no rubber edges or middle rubber around the its center hole. It will easily push in and pull out a little and it spins freely around the pinion shaft if you put a little pressure on it and spin it. I can get a a small pick on the center but it won't budge. That can't be an outer bearing race and I'm completely missing the seal?? Could it? I just don't see how whatever this is is meant to come out. Help would be appreciated. Pics of the deal attached....

 

[Coronet 500]

Looks like you've lost the rubber on the larger diameter piece (seal), the smaller diameter piece is the pinion bearing.

 

[Troub]

Looks like you've lost the rubber on the larger diameter piece (seal), the smaller diameter piece is the pinion bearing.

View attachment 1715247662

Yep I checked that diagram in my manual and I thought it should be the seal I'm fighting but it just acts odd. Can I punch a flat head screwdriver between it and the casing walk without doing damage and causing a new seal to leak? I see no other way to get it out. I can gently get a small pick tool to grab it a bit by the pinion shaft but not enough to move it and I don't want to force it there and damage the shaft.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Look at your new seal,you can tell where it fits. And test it in the pinion yoke to make sure its correct.
I always do.
I have a small pry bar i can drive against seal,forcing it in towards pinion shaft, that usually frees it enough to pry out.

 

[Tooljunkie]

The way you were planning with the screwdriver should work. I
Have chiseled the seal,to collapse it then it almost falls out.

 

[Troub]

The way you were planning with the screwdriver should work. I
Have chiseled the seal,to collapse it then it almost falls out.

So.....Used the "tap one end in and pry the other" method and got the seal out. Hammered a screw driver into one side of the seal and after a bit of prying it popped off. New seal in tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[Troub]

Pinion oil seal in with no issues although it doesn’t want to completely flush with the diff body housing. It sticks out a touch but is equal distance all the way around. The old one wasn’t totally flush either. Is this as it should be? No amount of pressing seems to push it in anymore. Pic of old one and new one attached.

 

[fishy68]

It'll be fine as long as you tapped it in as far as it'd go