HELP!!! Manifolds???Huggers???orHeaders

-
Ozcuda

Ozcuda

gotta love a MOPAR
Joined
Feb 24, 2006
Messages
248
Reaction score
2
Location
Australia
Hi All,

I am at my wits end can anybody shed some light on how well block hugger style header work over standard exhaust manifold & weather the change is worth the $$$ or is it better to put the $$$ into getting a set of headers made & would these flow that much better then a set of block huggers to make the difference in $$$ worth while ???

Thanks in advance still trying to get the old wagon to hit 13 flat or dip into the 12's we ran 13.4007secs on the weekend so we are slowly getting there.
 
A few questions:

1) Yr/Make?
2) Front suspension/crossmember type?
3) Motor Size/Cam Specs?
4) Head Type/Head Work?
5) Exh Manifold (HP or non-HP)
 
GTXperience said:
A few questions:

1) Yr/Make?
2) Front suspension/crossmember type?
3) Motor Size/Cam Specs?
4) Head Type/Head Work?
5) Exh Manifold (HP or non-HP)
Click to expand...

A1) 1963 Valiant Safari Station wagon Australian Chrysler
A2) munroe shocks original S/6 cross memebr
A3) 360 V8+40thou flat top pistons 10.3 to 1 comp, Comp cams #20-227-4 duration @50 In 321, Ex 237 Valve lift Inlet .525, Ex .525
A4) J heads 65cc chambers 2.02 & 1.80 valves double valve springs ported & polished port matched inlet manifold, 750cfm vac 4bbl holley.
A5) Standard 360 manifolds ceremic coated.

This old wagon has been modified for fun it also runs a 727 with HD cluches & bands with a stage 2 shift kit & 2500 stall it is alos fitted with a 3.9 to 1 LSD rear.

Please note that the Australian Mopars are RHD & our steering box limits the space for headers & they don't even make headers for this car as they never came with a V8 fitted only the s/6.
 
Good info. This is why I asked for it. I think you would benefit from full length headers with this combo (especially with your head work and cam specs). I am thinking that it has to be quite restrictive with stnd (and non-hp) manifolds on.

I am going to assume that your k-member is relatively the same (shape and location-wise) as US models with the exception of certain provisions for the RHD components. Most blockhuggers here do not usually work with OEM k-frames because of the exiting of the dumps. Blockhuggers made for Chryslers work with aftermarket front crossmembers/suspensions (ex. MII, Alterkation, etc.) where the OEM crossmember is not in the way.

BTW: How did you work those 1.80" exhausts in there. They must be super tight. The largest combo I have ever had in an X or J head was 2.08s & 1.65s.

Note: If you have a mnfr that supplies blockhuggers over there that will work with your setup, I say go for it. If not, I believe you need a set of custom eheaders made to get all of what you have there. So, what would you estimate a set of headers (being fabricated) to cost in US dollars?
 
FWIW,
The diameter of the tubes in headers will determine the rpm that peak torque occurs. Larger tubes higher rpm smaller tubes lower rpm.
The length of the tube will rock the torque curve around the peak. Longer tubes will enhance torque below the peak, shorter above.
Longer collectors will enhance low rpm torque. Larger diameter collectors will enhance torque above the peak.

The primary advantage of a block hugger over manifolds is the reduced flow restrictions. You won't get much in the way of a scavaging effect until you are way up in the rpm range. Full length headers will give the reduced restriction but you will also get significant scavaging and will produce more torque through the entire rpm range compared to the block hugger.
 
GTXperience said:
Good info. This is why I asked for it. I think you would benefit from full length headers with this combo (especially with your head work and cam specs). I am thinking that it has to be quite restrictive with stnd (and non-hp) manifolds on.

I am going to assume that your k-member is relatively the same (shape and location-wise) as US models with the exception of certain provisions for the RHD components. Most blockhuggers here do not usually work with OEM k-frames because of the exiting of the dumps. Blockhuggers made for Chryslers work with aftermarket front crossmembers/suspensions (ex. MII, Alterkation, etc.) where the OEM crossmember is not in the way.

BTW: How did you work those 1.80" exhausts in there. They must be super tight. The largest combo I have ever had in an X or J head was 2.08s & 1.65s.

Note: If you have a mnfr that supplies blockhuggers over there that will work with your setup, I say go for it. If not, I believe you need a set of custom eheaders made to get all of what you have there. So, what would you estimate a set of headers (being fabricated) to cost in US dollars?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info

Our manifols are the same both sides which are the same as your right side manifold....

K member is the same & location is unchanged from RHD to LHD down here they mounted the steering box on the RH chassis rail & the idler arm on the floor pan...Suspenion is the same as well.

I don't know how the guy got the valves in but he has been an engine builder for over 50 years although when you look at the valves in the head there isn't much gap between them they almost touch each other but everything seems to work. He is a great old guy over the years he has written down how he built what engine & what works & what don't work when I took him the heads he got out this old note book & started to read what he had done to other J heads over the years to find his starting point.

I can buy a set of huggers of the shelf for my application but full length headers would need to be made which would cost between $1200US & $1700US .

Thanks again for the info
 
dgc333 said:
FWIW,
The diameter of the tubes in headers will determine the rpm that peak torque occurs. Larger tubes higher rpm smaller tubes lower rpm.
The length of the tube will rock the torque curve around the peak. Longer tubes will enhance torque below the peak, shorter above.
Longer collectors will enhance low rpm torque. Larger diameter collectors will enhance torque above the peak.

The primary advantage of a block hugger over manifolds is the reduced flow restrictions. You won't get much in the way of a scavaging effect until you are way up in the rpm range. Full length headers will give the reduced restriction but you will also get significant scavaging and will produce more torque through the entire rpm range compared to the block hugger.
Click to expand...

Locomotion said:
Here is a Mopar muscle Magazine exhaust dyno comparison on a mild 360 which might help in your selection:

http://moparmuscle.automotive.com/30496/mopp-0307-mopar-crate-engine-exhaust/index.html

The last photo link at the bottom of the article has the dyno numbers from each set-up.

You don't want to go too big. But I have the TTI 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step headers on my race car and they work great even in that race-only combo!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info guy's I will checkout the web site
 
G'day Ozcuda, Iv seen a few blokes ship out some off the shelf 4into1's
from the states and just have the drivers side moded.
davedart was selling some moded tti's a few months ago on moparmarket.com sus it out mate 8)
 
timopar said:
G'day Ozcuda, Iv seen a few blokes ship out some off the shelf 4into1's
from the states and just have the drivers side moded.
davedart was selling some moded tti's a few months ago on moparmarket.com sus it out mate 8)
Click to expand...

Hi Timopar,

Yes I seen the set Dave was selling I rang him but just missed out on them.

I have been doing the rounds of the exhaust shops around town & found a guy who is either going to mod a set of Pacemakers that I have or make a set for me next week.

Cheers Oz.
 
sounds like a cool old car to by the way, If it were mine tho Id want 4into1's on it, with that cam and head work. :cheers:
 
Wow crazy! I think they look better than they work tho unfortunately.
Mancini have these http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sucohe273340.html shipping would be a big to, it was $120US in nov 09 when my best mate ordered his.
and $250-300AU to have em moded :pale:
On the up side tho you'd have a good set of pipes, with nice long primarys well suited to ya engine/drivetrain/vehicle weight.
Just food for thort Oz.
 
timopar said:
Wow crazy! I think they look better than they work tho unfortunately.
Mancini have these http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sucohe273340.html shipping would be a big to, it was $120US in nov 09 when my best mate ordered his.
and $250-300AU to have em moded :pale:
On the up side tho you'd have a good set of pipes, with nice long primarys well suited to ya engine/drivetrain/vehicle weight.
Just food for thort Oz.
Click to expand...

Yeah they look good don't they & would suit some applications......I haven't got time to get a set from the US & get them modded as the next drag day is 3 weeks away.....I am goign to get the exhaust guy to make me a set he quoted me $1200 AUD I think that is reasonable & from feedback I have been getting he does a good job & knows what he is doing.

Thanks for the input

Oz
 
Those e-bay headers are for a truck, Magnum styled.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top