Help me complete my build.

[USCG CHARGER]

So far this winter my R1 416 block with ported W9 heads will be installed.
Short block consist of:
R1 59* block 4.070
4" Dragon slayer crank
6.200 Carrillo rods
CP pistons (11:1 pump gas motor) .34 quench
Ported W9's
peak flow @ 750 is approx. mid 370's
Valves 2.17, 1.60
T & D 1.6 rockers
248/256 @ 050 630 lift cam (small but street able)
Stainless headers 2" primary stepped to 2 1/8 to 3.5" merged collectors.
Will run mufflers and 3" exhaust for now.

Tubular K frame and coil overs
Custom fully adjustable Tri-4 link
mini tubbed, standard link 8.75 with 4.10 gears
727 with 9.5" TC (for now)

Carb is pro-system 1000CFM

I'd like so suggestions regarding the completion of my build:
*Fuel system, stock style tank with built in sump or fuel cell?
*What size fuel lines and fuel pump from tank to carb?
*What size wheel and tire combo? I currently have some torque thrust II 15x9 on the rear with 275/60/15 for the street. I don't mind narrowing the rear an 1" on boths side to run a nice deep dished drag wheel and a decent size tire but would like to keep my street tires for local events. Unless I can run something with the stock width and the largest tire I can fit.
*What class should I try and run in? Thinking is should be a low 10 sec car possibly high 9
*Bench dynoed with current info at 760hp and 630tq using header building software.
*Elect. water pump or mechanical?

This car will be driven on the street as much as possible with track duty 1-2 times a month. It has full interior.

 

[USCG CHARGER]

Any of you Mopar gurus have any suggestions?

 

[pettybludart]

A cage for your own safety,maybe a harness too.
u-joints are?
mini-tub
bigger tires(slicks)
Hey you asked.LOL

 

[USCG CHARGER]

A cage for your own safety,maybe a harness too.
u-joints are?
mini-tub
bigger tires(slicks)
Hey you asked.LOL

Cage is going in for sure before I even think about hitting track.. I'm still debating on tranny.. so I don't currently have a DS picked.. I'd like to get the largest size tires as possible.. it would be cool to run this car in a true street class or at drag week where I have to drive the car from track to track 5 tracks in 5 days.

 

[moper]

I think if it was me, and you're going thru all the rear suspension anyway, I'd be ditching that 8 3/4. You're beyond it performance wise and weight wise. Time for a new Dana 60 witha set of 4.30s. As for the transmission, the 904 combo is lighter and faster and again, if built from the get-go for real performance, more than capable. That 9.5" is laughable behind that engine...lol. You should be talking to a chassis guy now. Before the suspension and items are picked out. A good chassis guy will want to be a part of all that, and be better at tying it all together wtiht eh cage and structural improvements. Also... what brakes do you have? You will want to address that too if they are factory drums on any wheel. As for fuel systems - I'd go with a cell in the trunk for simplicity's sake and order it with a return line capability. I'd go -12 to the filter and to the pump, -10 from pump for regulator, -10 return line. For pump and regulator - Aeromotive black with the 13212 regulator. This combo will give you all the streetability and is capable of properly feeding 700hp+. You're basically building a car the way you want. If there's a class you want to consistently do well in, you should be building for that class. Otherwise, it's just a bracket car.

 

[airwoofer]

You will have a very strong engine that should put that car into the high 6's (1/8 mile) and you will definately need bars. 8" x 15" drag radials or even street tires should be all you need and will make the car a lot of fun on the street also. You need to probably get disks up front. If you will be running 1/4 mile the car will be going over 120 MPH. It will exceed 100 MPH in the 1/8th. The car will have to run race gas which at 110 octane / leaded runs $7 a gallon here.

If you think that will be fun on the street - you are right if you can keep it legal. Mileage will be mid single digits, the engine will be very cold blooded and need to be restarted until the block warms up. I have to start and warm up with the water pump / fan turned off before my engine will get warm enough to idle. You are building a track car that you want to still be able to run on the street. It will be barely streetable but wil a low enough converter (2500?) it may be OK. You will only be able to drive it during good weather on the street.

I have this info from driving my track back to the street fish with a 500 HP stroker. Doing something similar but going to get the car to run 7.35 (1/8 mile) with a stock interior. You will have way more than that with that motor.

 

[rumblefish360]

I'd like so suggestions regarding the completion of my build:
*Fuel system, stock style tank with built in sump or fuel cell?

I think Aeromotive has complete systems from gas tank to carb. Pricey, but beautiful and done right.

*What size fuel lines and fuel pump from tank to carb?

Answered above, if your putting it together yourself, 1/2 to the divider at the carb, 3/8 to each bowl. It is more than enuff.

*What size wheel and tire combo? I currently have some torque thrust II 15x9 on the rear with 275/60/15 for the street. I don't mind narrowing the rear an 1" on boths side to run a nice deep dished drag wheel and a decent size tire but would like to keep my street tires for local events. Unless I can run something with the stock width and the largest tire I can fit.

Start tubing.

*Elect. water pump or mechanical?

With this much power....and not pro. racing it.....are you really concerned about the power loss? Electric units have proven reliable.

 

[USCG CHARGER]

Ok I guess I should clarify as few details. The car has disc brake on all four corners (wilwoods) It's mini-tubbed too. I plan on using the 8.75 until is brakes.. not wanting to spend the cash on any else right now. The car is/will have a molly cage in it tied to my frame connectors and torque boxed in place. The Cr is already set to 11:1 and with the alumn heads I'm shooting for pump gas. The Transmission is a whole other debate in it's self.. IF I use a 727 it will have a 9.5" convertor that I can use on the street most likey stall to 3500-4000 with it. I'm looking real hard at a GM trans at the moment though 200R4 or 4l80, both with trans brakes and full manual.

 

[moper]

I guess I miss the logic of building the car to break the rear...lol. But as we've said.. It aint my car...lol. Good on the disk brakes. If you want larger tires, wider is nice, but taller get's a larger and more stable footprint. In regard to the trans, either will hold it, the 200R4 is smaller, lighter, and can be built strong enough.
Also, don't forget, IIRC 9.99 or faster needs a competition license and Dr. certified good bill of health.

 

[USCG CHARGER]

I guess I miss the logic of building the car to break the rear...lol. But as we've said.. It aint my car...lol. Good on the disk brakes. If you want larger tires, wider is nice, but taller get's a larger and more stable footprint. In regard to the trans, either will hold it, the 200R4 is smaller, lighter, and can be built strong enough.
Also, don't forget, IIRC 9.99 or faster needs a competition license and Dr. certified good bill of health.

I hear your "Concern" in your post about my 8.75.. but there are plenty of guys running in the 9's on them and with me already having it I don't feel the need to change it until it's broke. This car will be 70-80% a street car anyways.. doubt I brake a 8,75 from light to light lol

 

[70aarcuda]

if the 8 3/4 breaks while in low gear with a 727/904 is in the car...the trans will need to come out to check the overrunning clutch aka sprag....

 

[USCG CHARGER]

if the 8 3/4 breaks while in low gear with a 727/904 is in the car...the trans will need to come out to check the overrunning clutch aka sprag....

Hey I've heard that too.. wonder if that the same with a 200R4?

 

[70aarcuda]

Hey I've heard that too.. wonder if that the same with a 200R4?

call Art Carr.......

 

[1970Duster]

I hear your "Concern" in your post about my 8.75.. but there are plenty of guys running in the 9's on them and with me already having it I don't feel the need to change it until it's broke. This car will be 70-80% a street car anyways.. doubt I brake a 8,75 from light to light lol

If you're putting out that much power I'd put a Dana 60 in it. You can sell the 8.75 and all the parts for a good chunk of change. This will put a pretty big dent in the price of a Dana 60. If you grenade the 8.75 now you have to throw out even more money for the Dana vs getting the stronger rearend (plus the cost of having the driveshaft shorterned to fit the Dana) at about 60% of the cost.
I'd rather do it once vs doing it multiple times, but that just me.

 

[moper]

The 200R4 should be fine. It's the Torqueflites' valve body design of no low/rev band apply that allows the sprague to be damaged in that manner.

 

[USCG CHARGER]

The 200R4 should be fine. It's the Torqueflites' valve body design of no low/rev band apply that allows the sprague to be damaged in that manner.

Good info to know... Thx

 

[USCG CHARGER]

I hope to be in the 9's on motor with this combo, while running on pump gas....

 

[pettybludart]

I hear your "Concern" in your post about my 8.75.. but there are plenty of guys running in the 9's on them and with me already having it I don't feel the need to change it until it's broke. This car will be 70-80% a street car anyways.. doubt I brake a 8,75 from light to light lol

It,s the hard street gears that will break first or the sure-grip.With over 700hp your gauranteed to twist axels also.Been there done that.go Dana60 with the bigger 35 spline axels and sell the 8 3/4 while still worth $$.JMO

Guys running 9,s with these 8 3/4 have had all the internals replaced with billet stuff I,m sure.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I did what you want to do. same motor but 12.5-1 428 resto with indy 360-1 heads. 700 roller. 456 742 clutch on street to keep 5500 converter against at 50 mph . This helps stop slip and overheat. 430 spool to race. 8 3/4 allows easy gear swap. track center has billet diff caps and g.m. style driveshaft clamps. I never broke it and have launched it pretty hard wheels up with this heavy car.

I used the factory tank because I wanted to keep it under the car so I could eliminate building a firewall behind the seat . All factory interior was left in the car. Left factory spare in the car because it was designed to hold the tank straps. Narrowed tank 3 inches. to allow factory exhaust and tips out back.

2 inch tubes to 3 1/2 exhaust dump in front of rear as close to housing as possible to prevent oiling the tires do to engine failure.

Did not put halo in or front tubes. A mistake , Broke into the 9's and the car will not certify.

Car is heavy with all factory interior and stereo.

This is a true driven street car with to much motor. It does not hook on the street with ss springs and snubber 29 14.5 Hoosier Quick time pros.

I tried to build this car without doing any thing to the body that cannot be returned to stock without painting it. I even put a push off kill switch in the tailight.

Fuel line is number 8 fragola starting at the tank.

Remote oil filter was added because you could not remove the filter after unscrewing it because of the Headers. so I also added a cooler.

GM one wire alternator mounted on factory power steering pump No wires on motor at all. only needed 8 inch wire to hook it up to bulk head.

MSD digital 6 allows me to run 93 on the street with its automatic 20 Degree retard. Only because it does not hook up. When it hooks you need 114 race fuel . You only need 114 when you load a high comp. motor. I also use a ignition kill switch to start it so it don't detonate.

I can blow these tires away at any speed even in 3rd when the power comes on.

If I had to do it over I would not have put this motor in a street car. as a matter a fact I would like to sell the car without the motor and trans and build a race car so I could use the motor for what it was built for. It does draw a crowd at cruises because of the Color, tires and the exhaust sound.

To hear the stereo the car has to be shut off

 

[USCG CHARGER]

That's bad ***.. to me what make is badass is that the car is a street car.. It only seems like you just made a minor mistake buy building an incorrect cage for the car.. if it wasn't for that that is exactly what I'm after...

 

[moper]

Old, how quick has the car gone?

 

[Oldmanmopar]

That's bad ***.. to me what make is badass is that the car is a street car.. It only seems like you just made a minor mistake buy building an incorrect cage for the car.. if it wasn't for that that is exactly what I'm after...

Your right It was the cage that should have been done differently. The reason I did the cage this way was to keep the full interior, The cage can be taken out fo the car. All pionts attaching it to the body are on 6x6 and 6x12 plates as per NHRA rules and bolted through the floor with 6x6 plates on the under side. I did this to get the back seat in. Everything in the car was from S&W. The main interior cage can still be taken in and out to remove and install the rear seat. I never thought the car would go faster then high 10's because of the weight I left in..

The car makes alot mor power since I had it to Island dragway. I got rid of the 1000 cfm BLP carb and since added a 1050 Quick Fuel Carb . Big difference Right out of the box . I also put 2 degrees of timing back in but notice pump gas didn't like it.

as far as the 8 3/4 I like the 742's they are easy to work on compared to the 489. No crush sleave. I have not broke either set I had in the car yet Like I said with a 5500 stall the rear takes abuse. I was just given a Barton A-body Dana 60. I am going to install it in the car for looks and to raise the price of the car when I sell it. I am deffinately putting this motor in a chassis car when I finish my other 340 Duster for the street. I will use the money I get for this Duster to help finance it.

I thought it would be cool to have a street car with this much power. I never realized how uncontrolable the power would be with a motor like this. It is not like a big block I had plenty. When this thing comes on it is at alot higher RPM's and is hard to keep it from spinning these tires. I almost lost it at over 100 mph on a wide 4 lane highway. It felt like my diesel when the boost comes on in the rain.

My son takes this car out once and awhile. He has been racing since he is a child and is still racing a sprint car at age 27. His advice was the same . The car is so uncontrolable it is dangerous. Take the motor out and put it in a race car. Or take the big solid roller out of it . I don't want him ending up like the kid who bought my Demon

 

[USCG CHARGER]

Yeah I remember what happen to your demon and that kid. I am sure that is part of the reason you would like this motor in a different platform.

Again I looking for the 700-750 hp range on this street car that I can drive to the track with an od tranny. All my interior will be left in the car as well.

 

[airwoofer]

I drove my fish around a few times over the holiday. With the 2500 or so converter the stroker runs pretty good between 2000-2500 where I drive mostly (think that is about 45 MPH with the 3.91 and 275/60-15 tires. Street manners are just fine. Biggest problem is the cold blooded nature of the engine. I have an elec water pump and do not turn it on until the temp gage shows some sign of life. The car won't idle until the engine is warmed up.

You may be building too much motor for a street car. My 10-1 and purple 508 are about as much as I would practically want. Very happy with the motor and the combo so far. The 5 gallon cell is pretty limiting as the milage - even when barely using the throttle, is pretty low. I use non-jokenol gas which is only available at a few stations. Probably gonna put a stiock tank in if I can find a way to sump one or a place that sells them that way.

 

[USCG CHARGER]

Good info.. I guess we will see if the motor is too much for street real soon.. I seriously thinking of some E85 as well.. I have a fwe stations in my area.