Help pick a cam

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needsaresto

needsaresto

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So here the setup.

318 probably .030 over with kb167 pistons.Windage tray, stock rods.arp bolts,balanced,blueprinted,stock cast crank reground as necessary,block decked just enough for square.Not a zero deck setup.

Magnum heads ported with templates,M1 dual plane intake, 650 edelbrock thunder series,FBO ign.

Cheap small tube hedman headers.

Backed by 2:94 sure grip and 904 with stage 2 shift kit.Stock converter(would consider changing it) and willing to upgrade valve prings as well.Just remember the springs need to work on a magnum head.

Going in a 3800+ pound M body cop car.Looking for good bottom end torque and great midrange for passing on the hiway.Brand not important,but should have an audible lope.Needs enough vacuum to run power brakes.

I've run various cams on desk top dyno, but real world experience is better!
 
73DartSport said:
Lunati Voodoo 60401 or 60402
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Agree, with that 2.94 gear you have to watch how big the cam is. You can go bigger and the motor will lope great but the car will be lazy taking off from the light.

Sometimes thou thats what they want.

We have a old Chevy over here that sounds like its got a 240 @ .050 cam in it. Our street is a 25 mph zone. He needs to wind out the gears a bit just driving past my house. Its so loud and goes so slow. I be ashame to drive it but I think he loves it.

That car needs 4.10 gears or more and more compression. He only drives it a few times a month and needs to let it warm up 15 mins before driving it. You can hear it all though the area--often times it stalls out. He guns the crap out of it and 15-20 mins later hes coming down the road :toothy10:

But once its good and hot, yeah, you can hear it loping away a mile a way :-D
 
stick to around 225-230 duration @ .050. no more. get what known as a factory high stall(1400-1800) to go with those 2.94 gears.
 
redfastback said:
stick to around 225-230 duration @ .050. no more. get what known as a factory high stall(1400-1800) to go with those 2.94 gears.
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Any way to tell a factory hi stall by looking or measuring? I might have one kickin around here somewhere.
 
nope. it may be worth buying it so you know its new. used torque converters that have an unknown past are nothing but scrap metal.
 
O.K, so how about a part # or maybe year/make/models they came in?

Or will the local jobber store know what Im talking about when I walk in asking for one? I could ask the local tranny shop, but they have a VERY poor reputation.
 
Car or Year/Make/Model make no difference. Buy new, you'll ed up on the better end of the whole deal when all is said and done.
 
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