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I built a long rod stroker.. Lot's of machine work. $$$
I built a 4.440" Stroker crank. With .045" over pistons I have 248 CI, and it is a torque monster. I've torn the vertical trunk braces loose from the trunk floor on launch, and I have subframe connectors. I haven't bothered with the M/T drag slicks since then. For the cost of the crank work you can have a very nice Nitrous system, and some other bits and pieces. Depending on where you go for your machine work, the crank work alone will come out in the 400 to 800 dollar range. You will need ARP rod bolts, machine work on the bottom of the bores to clearance the throws, and if you go out to the maximum, 4.500", you will need to machine the block to accept the throws.
With my heavily massaged 198 Rods and Toyota metric pistons, each assembly is considerably lighter than the stock 225 rod and piston. I regularly turn up 5000 and 5500 rpm. It's pretty well tapped after that due to cam choice.
With the 4.440" Stroke, 7.005" Rods, I have 0.125" off the deck, .040" off the head, and run 10.3:1 compression. The piston is still down the hole .070"
I run a 3000 rpm stall converter into 3.50 gears on a locker. Behind the slant I stall 2500 and flash 2600 rpm.
The only bigger stroke engines are Doc's 4.50" Stroke 225 rod one offs. One has been in his Dart Wagon for years, tows the race car to the track, and get's raced by Doc's son. He has it on a 1bbl.
I'm on an Offy, Carter 500 AFB and Dual Dutra Duals for 15.66 Second 1/4's. Still toying with timing.
Having built it and loved it, I'd say listen to Charrlie and stick with configurations that are a lot easier and cheaper to build. If the K1 option had been available when I built my drag motor, it would be a completely different configuration.
Was there a specific reason you wanted to build a stroker? Pulling stumps?
CJ