HELP *Turbo Action Shifter Cable Adjustment*

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1969cuda

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I’ll try to keep this short. I recently installed my new engine and untouched 727, rmvb transmission, along with my untouched Cheetah 7001B shifter. All were working flawlessly last year when I removed them. I adjusted the shift cable as described in the manual, but am having an issue I will try to describe.
Once the shift cable is adjusted, I can start the engine while in P and or N, but if I rock the car for or aft while in N, it will not start while in P, but will still start in N. Now when I rock it for or aft while in P until it stops rolling, I hear the transmission “click” if you will, then it will start.
Is it merely an adjustment issue, or something else?
 
I’ll try to keep this short. I recently installed my new engine and untouched 727, rmvb transmission, along with my untouched Cheetah 7001B shifter. All were working flawlessly last year when I removed them. I adjusted the shift cable as described in the manual, but am having an issue I will try to describe.
Once the shift cable is adjusted, I can start the engine while in P and or N, but if I rock the car for or aft while in N, it will not start while in P, but will still start in N. Now when I rock it for or aft while in P until it stops rolling, I hear the transmission “click” if you will, then it will start.
Is it merely an adjustment issue, or something else?
Set the detent position in first. And try again.
Are you using the factory neutral safety switch, or the little one it came with on the actual shifter body? Those little window switches he's are a pita. The factory NSS is actually pretty good...and easy to tie in to.
 
I am using the factory NSS. I will keep working at it. Thanks.
I would say adjusting it using first gear, will get you where you need to be. Setting it in park or neutral can lead to it being between gears they have alot more slop. I had that shifter in the past and had to fight with it too.
 
So no matter how I adjusted the shift able, I could not get it to operate correctly.
So, I disconnected the shift cable and manually operated the lever through all the gears and tested it. It starts in P and N. But still when in N if I rotate the rear wheels for or aft, and then place the shift lever in park and try to start it, nothing happens, until I rotate the rear tires for or aft until it stops. Then it will start.
I think at this point my shift cable/adjustment is no longer the problem. Any ideas where to start next?
 
Not without pulling the transmission which is about where I’m at with this. But that job is for another day... perhaps Monday morning :(
 
So no matter how I adjusted the shift able, I could not get it to operate correctly.
So, I disconnected the shift cable and manually operated the lever through all the gears and tested it. It starts in P and N. But still when in N if I rotate the rear wheels for or aft, and then place the shift lever in park and try to start it, nothing happens, until I rotate the rear tires for or aft until it stops. Then it will start.
I think at this point my shift cable/adjustment is no longer the problem. Any ideas where to start next?
How "sloppy" Is park? Can u "wiggle" the lever back, and get it to start? Back to my point about the cable holding the lever in a position that works.

A new NSS is like ten bucks at a local parts store if you really think that's it
 
Check to see if the shift lever on the tranny never loosened up a little bit. Wouldn’t hurt to change the nss like Johnny Mac said. Also the shaft coming out of the tranny could have play in the vb . Kim
 
There is approximately 3/8” play in the shift lever. I replaced the NSS when I installed the new engine, is it possible I have a mixed up wire?
 
There is approximately 3/8” play in the shift lever. I replaced the NSS when I installed the new engine, is it possible I have a mixed up wire?
If you have that much play, it is not an electrical issue. You need find out why there is so much play. That is not normal!
 
There is approximately 3/8” play in the shift lever. I replaced the NSS when I installed the new engine, is it possible I have a mixed up wire?
Do you have that in all positions? It should click hard into gears. Park has some movement.
 
There is approximately 3/8” play in the shift lever.

That has to be your issue. If you can, crawl under and move the shift lever while carefully observing the shaft going into the trans, have a flashlight handy so you can see the shaft clearly..

Does the shift lever move a bit before the shaft does?

is it possible I have a mixed up wire?

Doubtful, IMO, because you said it starts when fully engaged.
 
5877B285-2905-43E0-9662-B8DFBDFFDE76.png
I know you said you’re using the same shifter, transmission as you’ve done in the past but are you sure you’re using the correct TurboAction supplied lever?

I’m having a hard time getting on TA’s website but they do have a great tech and part instruction section.

Turbo Action Racing and Performance - Racing shifters, transmissions, converters, valve bodies, cheetah e-shift!
 
View attachment 1715728765 I know you said you’re using the same shifter, transmission as you’ve done in the past but are you sure you’re using the correct TurboAction supplied lever?

I’m having a hard time getting on TA’s website but they do have a great tech and part instruction section.

Turbo Action Racing and Performance - Racing shifters, transmissions, converters, valve bodies, cheetah e-shift!
The issue with slack is the culprit here. The shift lever is held in each position by the rooster comb/checkball that sits in the detent. I've not had one with any slack in it. If the shift lever is not loose on the shaft, then there is something awry with the valve body that would cause looseness.
 
The issue with slack is the culprit here. The shift lever is held in each position by the rooster comb/checkball that sits in the detent. I've not had one with any slack in it. If the shift lever is not loose on the shaft, then there is something awry with the valve body that would cause looseness.
Winner, and no more "Guessing" required, because thats the problem.
OP's observed issue is the NSS isn't function properly. REAL issue is too much slop on the rooster comb. should have damn near zero play in every detent position. i have found park has some "dead / overextension" area that can make shifter cable adjustment a bit tricky, but thats why you set cable slack in gear, vs park.
 
Bingo,,, too much slack was the issue. Problem solved. I have no idea how that lever cams loose.
018CF718-DAAC-437F-9668-F4B6F02589CB.jpeg
 
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