There is supposed to be a clip installed on the outboard end of the Z-bar, indexed into the nylon bushings, to keep the Z-bar from moving laterally. If, after the bar is properly anchored, the inboard end reaches the ball on the bellhouse, then it is the correct length. If the inboard down-bar is straight then you have the correct Z-bar.
If your installed Z-bar sits parallel to the ground, and at 90* to the frame rail in plan-view, then the inboard ball is at the correct height.
Then we need to talk about the fork. There are just 3 different forks. One is for the Overdrive unit, and two are for the older bells; a long and a short. The forks are married to the bells, and their fork bracket styles, which are married to the K-members. This is clear on the Brewer's site.
Then we need to talk about that assist spring.SBMs usually run 10.5 clutches. There was a 9.5 273 clutch years ago. IDK what type it was, nor if the assist spring was required.
Of the 10.5s or 11" scallopeds;
Borg and Beck units are a hard-to-push design and absolutely do need the assist spring. The diaphragm clutches are an easy-to-push design, and do not have enough power to return the pedal if the assist spring is on there.Then there are the Long-3-finger types. I've never run one and don't know if they require the assist-spring.
But whatever you are running; if the TO fork is of proper length and correctly installed, then for you, the assist spring needs to come off.