help with finding a camshaft magnum 360

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737jetdr

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I need some assistance finding a Hydraulic roller camshaft for a 360 magnum motor I am putting together. I'm using a stock bottom end, airgap intake, 650 edelbrock carb, mechanical fuel pump, headers, 2.94 rear gear. I had my eye set on the Hughes HUG SER1418ALN-10. I have the same cam in one of my other cars it it sounds great. Lots of torque. Unfortunately Hughes can't get any camshafts at the moment. I don't drag race but I'd like to do the occasional burnout and a nice rumble. I know this can be a highly debated topic. Just looking for some other sources for cams besides Summit and Jegs. Thanks in advance.
 
Camshafts are scarce for everyone.
Best of luck in your search.
 
Try Oregon Cam Grinders. I've got one of their cams in my 5.9 and am very happy. Get a regrind from the LA roller and you'll have the fuel pump snout
 
The cam Richard Holdener used in his 5.9 magnum was a nice upgrade for a mild build. 212/218 dur @050 .480 lift on a 114lsa. Added power everywhere.
Part number in pic.
A8F09698-C2EE-46C2-ACAE-E58B0E9FDDD1.png
 
Ask Marty at Utawsome performance. They pretty much only do Magnum motors. I got an "R.V." cam from them a year or so ago. ( I had a 95 V8 Dakota w/OBD1 system & that was as much as that system could handle) It was a CompCams roller & I was very happy with the results. I understand you're not running F.I. but they might have a grind that you are looking for. They are a GREAT, small outfit & will help you out.
 
The cam Richard Holdener used in his 5.9 magnum was a nice upgrade for a mild build. 212/218 dur @050 .480 lift on a 114lsa. Added power everywhere.
Part number in pic.
View attachment 1715901368
Imagine the torque output with a tighter 108 with better valve events. Oh that would have been sweet.
I know…. FI cam….
 
I need some assistance finding a Hydraulic roller camshaft for a 360 magnum motor I am putting together. I'm using a stock bottom end, airgap intake, 650 edelbrock carb, mechanical fuel pump, headers, 2.94 rear gear. I had my eye set on the Hughes HUG SER1418ALN-10. I have the same cam in one of my other cars it it sounds great. Lots of torque. Unfortunately Hughes can't get any camshafts at the moment. I don't drag race but I'd like to do the occasional burnout and a nice rumble. I know this can be a highly debated topic. Just looking for some other sources for cams besides Summit and Jegs. Thanks in advance.

Do you have the stock Magnum cam you can send in to a place like Oregon for a re-grind? Cam cores are the problem. Nobody has them in abundance. But if Oregon will still do re-grinds and you are not looking for really radical specs, that is the quickest option to get it done.
 
Thanks for all the info everyone. I'll start making calls tomorrow. I still have the stock camshaft however I want to run a mechanical pump. Not sure if this can be done with the short snout cam.
 
Thanks for all the info everyone. I'll start making calls tomorrow. I still have the stock camshaft however I want to run a mechanical pump. Not sure if this can be done with the short snout cam.
Call Bullet Cams, I recently sold a hyd roller core to a member here, he consulted with them and had me send it directly to them for regrinding. Point being: call them and see what they can spec for you.:thumbsup:
 
Imagine the torque output with a tighter 108 with better valve events. Oh that would have been sweet.
I know…. FI cam….
Agree there are some numbers I’d like to see changed around a bit but I really think comp hit the nail on the head for a shelf cam that most guys can stab in a stock engine with factory fuel injection (probably 90% of the demographic this cam is aimed at) and see big improvements everywhere.
 
i put oregons grind #1341 in a 5.2 Magnum with a little home ported heads, runs perfect. If you have a core (or they) then they can regrind that. It´s 218/224 on 110 LSA.

Michael
 
Richard H recently tested some cams in a LS engine with factory induction. Tightest LSA was 107, then LSA went up from there. The 107 outperformed the other cams everywhere except for a small dip in the curve against one of the other cams. Maybe someone can link it?
 
Richard H recently tested some cams in a LS engine with factory induction. Tightest LSA was 107, then LSA went up from there. The 107 outperformed the other cams everywhere except for a small dip in the curve against one of the other cams. Maybe someone can link it?
This one?

it wasn’t recent but it’s what you described
 
Thanks for all the info everyone. I'll start making calls tomorrow. I still have the stock camshaft however I want to run a mechanical pump. Not sure if this can be done with the short snout cam.

Here's a link to the fix @rumblefish360 is referring to. I bought one of these to use in my 273, because the only blanks that Bullet had to grind my hydraulic roller on was a short snout Magnum blank. It was about 6 weeks from order to delivery from Bullet.
Hughes Engines
 
TT5,
Yep another great example of tight LSA being the winner.
But that wasn't the test I was thinking of. I think it was more recent, 3-4 weeks back, smaller LS 4.8 or 5.3L engine. Definitely 107 LSA.

BTR cams, Brian Tooley Racing, & one had the moniker of a 'Truck Norris' cam.
 
TT5,
Yep another great example of tight LSA being the winner.
But that wasn't the test I was thinking of. I think it was more recent, 3-4 weeks back, smaller LS 4.8 or 5.3L engine. Definitely 107 LSA.

BTR cams, Brian Tooley Racing, & one had the moniker of a 'Truck Norris' cam.
Yea he recently tested a 4.8 and a 5.3 with both the stage 2 “sloppy” cam and the truck Norris cam.
 
Try Lunati; their Voodoo series has received lots of praise and I bought a 112' long snout (to run a mechanical fuel pump) hydraulic roller for my 360 stroker build. I'm not done the engine yet, so I can't give you any empirical evidence. Good luck!
 
a8f09698-c2ee-46c2-acae-e58b0e9fddd1-png.png

Take a good look at this;
The lines cross at 5250rpm so the numbers on the left axis can be used for both torque and power. Consider the blue line; the cam may be stock because the power is peaking at the correct rpm for a stocker. But notice that the power is about 300hp. Therefore; I wonder if this engine is otherwise stock.
Now consider the red line;
>see what happens below 3000? You can clearly see the trend pointing to a loss of torque and power.
>See the power increase by 3000? Is that 4hp?
>the Power hit comes at 5000rpm. Is your engine up to it.
>What gears are you running? and What stall?
Look carefully.
This red cam wants a stall of 3500 or more, to stay on the pipe at the 1-2 shift (59% with a 904/727) with a 5300rpm shift, otherwise the rpm will drop from 5300 to .59 x 5300= 3130. Look on the graph. What is the power difference at 3130?
What is your speed in Second gear at 3130?
With 3.23s, I get ~48mph. Therefore, on the 1-2 shift, at 48 mph with any stall less than 3130 the red cam offers little to no more power than does the blue line.
Now lets look at that 3000 rpm in First gear. This is about 27 mph . So below 27 mph, the blue line will have more power.
Your gain thus, with 3.23s, and a sub 3000 stall, from the red over blue, is,
beginning at say 4hp@27mph and extending to 50hp@48mph, then on the 1-2 shift, the power drops right back to ~4hp@48mph. If you spin the tires and short shift, you are sure to be disappointed.
This cam wants a 4 speed; or a stall over 3500, AND throw the 3.23s away.
Since you have to spring for a hi-stall and gears anyway, you might as well do that first and leave the factory cam in it.(assuming it is good). Both the 4-gear and or the hi-stall will shorten up your powerband and increase your AVERAGE power over the full range, thus you may be pleasantly surprised by the blue line.
As for the blue-line, it peaks at around 4500, but the line is so broad and so flat that you can easily run it to 5300, or more. From 5300 the rpm drop at 59% is to 3130 again, but a 3500TC would put the incoming power close to the outgoing power and so that is as good as it gets.
Run the blue with 3.91s, compared to the red with 3.23s, the blue-line will put more torque down to the pavement at almost any rpm. For instance, the red line would be putting down, at 5000rpm, say 360 ftlbs x2.45 x3.23= say 2860 ftlbs into the rear axles. Whereas the blue line, also at 5000 looks like 310ftlbs x 2.45 x 3.91=2970ftlbs.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
 
@AJ/FormS what you are seeing and referencing below 3000 is not accurate because it is a factor of how the load on the dyno is applied. It will be different for almost every run. Richard has talked about it many many times. Do not take the low rpm numbers on this dyno chart, or any other for that matter as gospel.
 
View attachment 1715907144
Take a good look at this;
The lines cross at 5250rpm so the numbers on the left axis can be used for both torque and power. Consider the blue line; the cam may be stock because the power is peaking at the correct rpm for a stocker. But notice that the power is about 300hp. Therefore; I wonder if this engine is otherwise stock.
Now consider the red line;
>see what happens below 3000? You can clearly see the trend pointing to a loss of torque and power.
>See the power increase by 3000? Is that 4hp?
>the Power hit comes at 5000rpm. Is your engine up to it.
>What gears are you running? and What stall?
Look carefully.
This red cam wants a stall of 3500 or more, to stay on the pipe at the 1-2 shift (59% with a 904/727) with a 5300rpm shift, otherwise the rpm will drop from 5300 to .59 x 5300= 3130. Look on the graph. What is the power difference at 3130?
What is your speed in Second gear at 3130?
With 3.23s, I get ~48mph. Therefore, on the 1-2 shift, at 48 mph with any stall less than 3130 the red cam offers little to no more power than does the blue line.
Now lets look at that 3000 rpm in First gear. This is about 27 mph . So below 27 mph, the blue line will have more power.
Your gain thus, with 3.23s, and a sub 3000 stall, from the red over blue, is,
beginning at say 4hp@27mph and extending to 50hp@48mph, then on the 1-2 shift, the power drops right back to ~4hp@48mph. If you spin the tires and short shift, you are sure to be disappointed.
This cam wants a 4 speed; or a stall over 3500, AND throw the 3.23s away.
Since you have to spring for a hi-stall and gears anyway, you might as well do that first and leave the factory cam in it.(assuming it is good). Both the 4-gear and or the hi-stall will shorten up your powerband and increase your AVERAGE power over the full range, thus you may be pleasantly surprised by the blue line.
As for the blue-line, it peaks at around 4500, but the line is so broad and so flat that you can easily run it to 5300, or more. From 5300 the rpm drop at 59% is to 3130 again, but a 3500TC would put the incoming power close to the outgoing power and so that is as good as it gets.
Run the blue with 3.91s, compared to the red with 3.23s, the blue-line will put more torque down to the pavement at almost any rpm. For instance, the red line would be putting down, at 5000rpm, say 360 ftlbs x2.45 x3.23= say 2860 ftlbs into the rear axles. Whereas the blue line, also at 5000 looks like 310ftlbs x 2.45 x 3.91=2970ftlbs.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


Even with stock stall and 3.23, on a full throttle run realistically how much time would spend under 3000 rpm ?? 1-2 seconds maybe, I don't think you'd notice the little loss on the bottom.
 
Call Delta Cams. I talked to them very recently (last week) and he said they have PILES of cores. They can grind you anything you want.
 
Call Delta Cams. I talked to them very recently (last week) and he said they have PILES of cores. They can grind you anything you want.

Thanks Rusty. I sent Oregon cam grinders my stock cam. Going to try them out.
Thanks everyone for your input. Making a file in my phone of all of these shops for future reference.
 
Thanks Rusty. I sent Oregon cam grinders my stock cam. Going to try them out.
Thanks everyone for your input. Making a file in my phone of all of these shops for future reference.
You're not makin a mistake. Ken Heard is one of the best. I've had him grind several for me, including the one I am running now. That was a good decision. I only recommended Delta because they have cores. I knew Ken was running really low or out. I think you'll be happy.
 
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