Help with oiling setup

[mshred]

Hey guys,

Im just about ready to build my 360 roller motor and am at a crossroads for the oiling system. Build is a basic KB107 flattop, closed chamber heads, cam somewhere in the .550" lift range, Street/strip, will see 6800-7000rpm MAX. Plan is to hit somewhere in the high/mid 11's.

Currently have .002" on the mains and rods, main bearings are full groove. Ive gone with a stock volume oil pump (possibly an HP releif spring is nescessary...what do you guys think?). The block will be getting some of the oil mods suggested by Guitar Jones, as well as some other basic mods to the pump and block, nothing too crazy though since its not an endurance motor or anything.

My question is do you guys recommend a stock type pan with windage tray and stock pickup? (and possibly baffled for the pickup) Or should i go to a deep pan i.e. kevko with their 1/2" pickup and crank scraper? What do you guys think will work with the combination im planning in terms of bearing clearances, bearing type, and the stock pump im using

Im open to all opinions here since some say one thing, others say another, so i need to decide for sure

thanks!

 

[rumblefish360]

Can you weld and have a extra oil pan?

You know where I'm going with this. It would be what I would do on the cheap....and yet effective.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

you don't need really any oil mods with that rpm.
you won't be i those rpms that long, and even then....7k is nothing.

A deep baffled pan, or even stock 'baffled pan with a stock melling oil pump is fine and won't eat up a much HP as a high volume or higher pressure unit will.

the clearances you have are not big, so they also do not justify a high volume/pressure oil pump.

another thing....when take off from the line or are just generally accelerating, all the oil is g forced to the back of the motor [directing this at the valley] so DON'T drill holes in the vallet for drainage cause it all gos to the back and drians down like it's supposed to do anyways. when guys drill hole all over the valley they forget that now the oil is gonna 'somewhat' drain down onto the crank now and cause windage/aeration of the oil before it hit the sump again.

you want it to drain down the back of the valley into the sump cause then it's off the crank.

if you run a 90* filter, work on it, smooth the bends in the orifaces.

and if you do decide you have to do mods just because you want to...do the hard line cross over in the valley and plug the no 1 main feed from the pass side.

get a book and it will show you.

 

[mshred]

Can you weld and have a extra oil pan?

You know where I'm going with this. It would be what I would do on the cheap....and yet effective.

LOL i do know where you are going with this. Yes i have a welder, but i don't even have a car pan that i need yet, just the stock truck pan. Are you suggesting i deepen the sump? add a baffle? or both?

you don't need really any oil mods with that rpm.
you won't be i those rpms that long, and even then....7k is nothing.

A deep baffled pan, or even stock 'baffled pan with a stock melling oil pump is fine and won't eat up a much HP as a high volume or higher pressure unit will.

the clearances you have are not big, so they also do not justify a high volume/pressure oil pump.

another thing....when take off from the line or are just generally accelerating, all the oil is g forced to the back of the motor [directing this at the valley] so DON'T drill holes in the vallet for drainage cause it all gos to the back and drians down like it's supposed to do anyways. when guys drill hole all over the valley they forget that now the oil is gonna 'somewhat' drain down onto the crank now and cause windage/aeration of the oil before it hit the sump again.

you want it to drain down the back of the valley into the sump cause then it's off the crank.

if you run a 90* filter, work on it, smooth the bends in the orifaces.

and if you do decide you have to do mods just because you want to...do the hard line cross over in the valley and plug the no 1 main feed from the pass side.

get a book and it will show you.

All very good tips, thank you. I actually have 3 different books that ive completely read, and between the slight differences in those and what guys on the net recommend, its kinda hard to decide what route i should go. I will not be going crazy on the oiling mods since this is no race motor anyways, but i will try to employ some of the little tricks here and there. No 90 degree filter and basically stockish clearances on the rods and mains.

My biggest concern though is at the higher rpms, with the stock pump, will i run out of oil using a stock depth car pan? How much would i benefit from the deep aftermarket pan? I do have the factory windage tray that came with the motor, was going to open the slots a bit and use it, but is it of any benefit? so many conflicting opinons these days lol

 

[moper]

"My biggest concern though is at the higher rpms, with the stock pump, will i run out of oil using a stock depth car pan?"
No.

"How much would i benefit from the deep aftermarket pan?"
You end up buying more oil, and have to get rid of more oil when you change it. Plus depending on the pan, you could end up hitting it on someting. I dont see any benefits there.

"I do have the factory windage tray that came with the motor, was going to open the slots a bit and use it, but is it of any benefit?"
Yes, it is.

"so many conflicting opinons these days"
Yup...

 

[mshred]

"My biggest concern though is at the higher rpms, with the stock pump, will i run out of oil using a stock depth car pan?"
No.

"How much would i benefit from the deep aftermarket pan?"
You end up buying more oil, and have to get rid of more oil when you change it. Plus depending on the pan, you could end up hitting it on someting. I dont see any benefits there.

"I do have the factory windage tray that came with the motor, was going to open the slots a bit and use it, but is it of any benefit?"
Yes, it is.

"so many conflicting opinons these days"
Yup...

Dave you have a pm