Okay so the reason the front lights were blinking is I had the 4 way on. After a little more testing, my turn signals do not work, no brake lights, but my parking lights work (headlights + tail light). I tested the brake light switch it is functioning as it should. Has power going to the steering column connector (I did replace the turn signal switch when I had the steering column out with a new one, so that SHOULDN'T be the issue, but I'm thinking it may be.)
Do not assume that! The aftermarket seems to have a high failure rate when it comes to turn-signal switches. Usually the contacts are set too deep into the plastic, and some lights fail to operate. And if it is not delivered to you as non functional, it may soon be. It seems the plastic is not heat-resistant enough. In the case of receding contacts I have successfully plopped a bit of solder on them to bring them up to the right height. But this is a temporary fix, as the solder doesn't last forever.
First; make sure all the bulbs are 1157s and are all properly installed, and with working grounds. Also make sure that the filaments are NOT bridged. That has fudged me up a time or two.
Then your first diagnostic tool is the headlight sw. So pull it out to the park position. If all 4 bulbs light up to the same level of brightness;then the grounds are proven to be good. If one is dimmer that the rest, trade it with a bulb from a different location. If the problem follows the bulb,throw it away. But if the problem stays at the socket, clean the connector and prove the ground is near zero resistance back to the battery negative, then try again. It should now be OK; and the grounds are proven.
Step 2;Your second tool is the 4-way flasher.
If all 4 bulbs flash then the wiring from the signal switch to the bulbs is proven to be ok. If they ALL come on, but don't flash, then replace the flasher. If the fronts come on but not the rear, AND the brake lites do not come on, then likely the TS switch is gonna need help. If just one front comes on, then check the other front bulb for power, and a working filament, but most often, the install or the spring-loaded base connector. Get it working before proceeding. If the flasher is clicking away but nothing is lighting up, then either the circuit is shorted or the flasher is cooked. This will be tough to find.
If the flasher is not cycling at all, it could be failed, but those old kinds (332s,IIRC) are looking for a certain load (two 1157s) to make the bi-metallic element get hot enough to cycle. They will not flash LEDS, and have trouble with both more or fewer than two bulbs. For those applications you will need a HD (552,IIRC) or an "electronic" flasher. If everything works except the rear lights, go to step three
Step three
part 1
Ok, so once everything works with the 4-way flasher, turn it off and activate the brake sw. If the rears do not light up, we have already proved the bulbs and wiring works between the TS sw and the back; so make sure the brake sw is receiving and sending power. If it is, then check the TS side of the connector at the base of the column. If you got power there, then pop the steering wheel off and dig out the sw, something is wrong with it. Check the I think pink or red wires, not sure, for power from the brakelite sw. With no power there, go to the connector at the base of the column. More likely power will be there. So then separate the TS sw into it's two halves and you will right away see the problem; sunken contacts. So get that fixed, and then the rear signals will work too, cuz it's the same circuit, just activated from another wire at the TS sw.
part 2
But if the rears did not flash with the 4-way flasher, then go straight to the TS switch, it ain't working
Ok here's my best advice. If the TS sw is new aftermarket, and you have proved the grounds, bulbs, sockets, and installs, then; instead of spending 2 hours in the diagnostics, just go straight to the TS sw and pop it open. Even if you don't find the problem there, it will make your diagnostics much easier, because you now have instant access to every circuit........... but I'm almost certain you will find receding contacts, cuz the plastic they use, in too many cases,doesn't even survive the factory assembly.
I think I got that right, working from memory
