Holley Chrysler throttle extension lever

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freshayr

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what is the purpose of the Holley Chrysler throttle extension lever? (PN 20-7) . I am having some trouble getting my kickdown linkage and throttle cable to function. Could this part help?
 
Basically it makes the arm movement on the carb match the movement on the pedal so you will get full throttle.

Hey, 69signetv8 is this De ja vu or what?
 
I think that is what I need.....if i adjust my cable so I get WOT....it won't return all the way to idle....If I adjust for idle, I don't get WOT. Gotta have WOT :)
 
so did that fix the problem? did he have kickdown linkage issues also?
 
Yes, he had the exact some thing. I am sure he will notice this thread and give the low down.
 
69signet....i got the same problem. Can you give me a side picture of your setup. I am having trouble decideing which hole the throttle cable oges in and where the kickdown goes. I picked up a holley chrysler throttle extension today and the directions are terrible. There is only one hole on it. If i put my throttle cable in it i have no place ofr my kickdown linkage.
thanks in advance guys!!!
 
freshayr said:
69signet....i got the same problem. Can you give me a side picture of your setup. I am having trouble decideing which hole the throttle cable oges in and where the kickdown goes. I picked up a holley chrysler throttle extension today and the directions are terrible. There is only one hole on it. If i put my throttle cable in it i have no place ofr my kickdown linkage.
thanks in advance guys!!!
Click to expand...

Sent you a Private Message.
 
69signetv8 said:
Sent you a Private Message.
Click to expand...

Your light's on but nobodys home? Anyways here's a side view of my connections with a 600 Holley.

DSCF0001.JPG
 
OK...first question. I see the extension arm. It looks like your throttle cable is mounted in the middle of the extension arm or in other words, between the carb and the outter part of the extension arm. . My throttle cable end has a small screw hole for mounting. The extension lever has a larger hole. What did you do to make the connection? I can't really tell from the picture. Second question. I may have a different throttle cable/kickdown linkage bracket than you. My kickdown linkage needs to go to the outside and my throttle to the inside to make them line up properly. Thanks again.
 
You use the Holley extension, and your original hardware for the accel cable and kickdown in the single large hole. From the factory, the kickdown is on the outside stud of the special bolt, and the cable slips over the inside stud. So there is only one hole you use..the special bolt has the two spots to mount the linkages.
 
Ok...great. Where would I get the special stud? that I don't have. I think we are making some progress here. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
Actually looking at Signets post here, he took a different approach then what I thought he would do. The rod where the return springs are mounted which is part of the adapter bracket, is where I have my trans kick-down arm. But if he is getting WOT and the trans is working properly, can't argue with that.
Mac
 
Where my return (red) spring is now..is on a long extention stud which I had from an older carb. This extension comes apart and screws together between the outter arm bracket which is closer to the throttle shaft pivet point then the inboard one. The long outer side of this extension is not really required, so I just put my return springs on it (I also use it for reving the engine from the engine compartment when the filters on). The other side of this extenton stud has (of course) a smaller stud for the throttle cable. Like you said, I moved the kickdown (inboard) to the .5 in hole on the inner throttle arm bracket. It also had a threaded stud with large washer that could be bolted tight. As you can see, the kickdown is now in a straight line. The throttle cable runs a little off centre but also assisted with the pull. Adjustments were quite easy. I did have to modify the cable hold down and cut a few tangs off so the cable horn would be snug. :)
 
freshayr said:
Ok...great. Where would I get the special stud? that I don't have. I think we are making some progress here. Thanks for everyone's help.
Click to expand...
If your looking for different studs to work for "your" carb, any auto store that sells holley carbs should have a boxes of these small parts you can just eye ball and pick out. :thumblef:
 
Dead End Kid said:
Actually looking at Signets post here, he took a different approach then what I thought he would do. The rod where the return springs are mounted which is part of the adapter bracket, is where I have my trans kick-down arm. But if he is getting WOT and the trans is working properly, can't argue with that.
Mac
Click to expand...
Then where did you attached the throttle?
 
Same place as Signet. I am using a Lokar cable. I removed the top nut/bolt that attaches the adapter to the carb. I then used the ball crank stud that came with my cable in place of that bolt and nut. It is (at least it appears) that this is the same hole utilized by Signet.
Mac
 
freshayr said:
Then where did you attached the throttle?
Click to expand...

freshayr, do you have a dig camera. If you do give us a pic so we know what your looking at. :)
 
here a pic. didn't come out quite as good as I had hoped
p1145473896868.jpg
 
Signet, reading your answers/replies here and on the other post it sounds like you were able to get to WOT without bending the gas pedal bar/link. Is that right?
Mac
 
Ha-Ha, just a few nuts and bolts. Your pics are OK and I can see what you have done. Your very close, however where you got your (Big) red return spring is through the hole that I put my kickdown. (with a stud and bolt). I will send you a over the top view of what I have. Now, it looks like you don't have a out board bracket so that makes it a little differant. I think as long as your throttle cable is attach close to the carb centre pivet, you will be fine, however you should try and put your throttle cable where your kickdown is now...this should take that slack out I can see!. You should work on it first and leave the kickdown for later...Just disconnect the kickdown completely from the carb. Put a stick or something on the gas peddle to ensure it's fully to the floor. Go back to the engine compartment and check if you can still push the throttle back by hand to fully open. If you can...un-do your cable hold down and move it back until the inner cable becomes tight. (try not to pull back your throttle. If by doing this, your throttle will not fully close, see if you can adjust your throttle idle screw on the carb and turn it back. If this works....we will work on your kickdown. OK here's a pic of the top view of my carb, so you can see what I did.

carb.JPG


Cable Hold.JPG
 
Dead End Kid said:
Signet, reading your answers/replies here and on the other post it sounds like you were able to get to WOT without bending the gas pedal bar/link. Is that right?
Mac
Click to expand...

Yah Mac, "after" you told me what moper 340 ment by moving the cable to the centre pivet, I thought about it and gave it a try. It's not a work of art under there but everything works great..Without Bending (What a big improvement now) :thumblef:
Thanks Mac,
 
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