Matts440
Well-Known Member
I just used the blue painters tape and would cut strips out and tack weld, then remove and finish welding.
HOME MADE EXHAUST
- Thread starter WAYNE0
- Start date
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33IMP
Well-Known Member
I did two systems, the first made with individual mandrel bends and pieces of straight pipes and homemade collector flanges. (Mufflers I used were $100 then, $200 now.)
The second system was made with some cheaper mufflers, and left over pipe from the first system. (This set had hooker aero's, $50 then, $100 now).
I wouldn't do them again. I'd get a pipe kit from Summit or jegs for the car application, and ad the mufflers I want.
The second system was made with some cheaper mufflers, and left over pipe from the first system. (This set had hooker aero's, $50 then, $100 now).
I wouldn't do them again. I'd get a pipe kit from Summit or jegs for the car application, and ad the mufflers I want.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Always thought about using magnets but haven't tried yet.
K&J Magnetics: Horseshoe Magnets
K&J Magnetics: Horseshoe Magnets
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
I used a Summit 2-1/2" kit, but I'd ordered it prior to realizing how silly I'd get with my engine. When I finally got to the exhaust, I used a Summit universal 3" X-pipe kit along with the 2-1/2" exhaust kit and TTi headers. I cut and welded the X-pipe kit to bolt directly to the headers, with the X near the U-joint. I angled the inlet pipes up a little so the outlets of the X-section pointed up toward the floor a bit (ground clearance).
I used the full length of the outlet pipes to keep it 3" as long as possible, but I had to go down to 2-1/2" to get into the mufflers. This shows how close I was able to keep the exhaust to the floor with my X-pipe trickery:
Since the car has the springs relocated, stock-location tailpipes weren't going to fit. I wanted quiet exhaust, so I found some 2-1/2" in/out resonators and mounted those to the outside of the frame rails. I used one of these on each side as a resonator hanger:
I simply folded the strap over itself and bolted it into the original hole for the shackle hanger.
I made sure everything was aligned out back, then went back up front and started connecting things. The turndowns are just set in place here; I later welded them.
I dragged out every high-lift stand I could find, mocked everything up, and then forgot to keep taking pictures... damn it.
Since I failed to take pictures, I'll explain what I did next. I used some Flowmaster tapered pipe transitions band-clamped to the back of the X-pipe. I cut the Summit head pipes and fitted them to the transitions and the mufflers. Once everything seemed to be where I wanted it, I wondered how I'd get to the resonators with stock-style over-axle pipes. It turns out that the Summit pipes are cut directly over the axle and slip-fit together. I'm assuming that was to allow the tailpipes to be clocked for outboard springs, because it worked perfectly. I simply rotated them in the slip joint until the tails aligned with the resonators, cut, and slipped them into the resonators. I used band clamps here to facilitate later resonator replacement, if needed.
It's not a great shot since the site resizes pictures, but the nearly-complete system looks like this to the oil pan (which is actually the lowest point on the car):
Side shot shows very adequate ground clearance. The oil pan's a much larger concern, really.
The mufflers are tucked up quite nicely, too.
(Continued...)
I used the full length of the outlet pipes to keep it 3" as long as possible, but I had to go down to 2-1/2" to get into the mufflers. This shows how close I was able to keep the exhaust to the floor with my X-pipe trickery:
Since the car has the springs relocated, stock-location tailpipes weren't going to fit. I wanted quiet exhaust, so I found some 2-1/2" in/out resonators and mounted those to the outside of the frame rails. I used one of these on each side as a resonator hanger:
I simply folded the strap over itself and bolted it into the original hole for the shackle hanger.
I made sure everything was aligned out back, then went back up front and started connecting things. The turndowns are just set in place here; I later welded them.
I dragged out every high-lift stand I could find, mocked everything up, and then forgot to keep taking pictures... damn it.
Since I failed to take pictures, I'll explain what I did next. I used some Flowmaster tapered pipe transitions band-clamped to the back of the X-pipe. I cut the Summit head pipes and fitted them to the transitions and the mufflers. Once everything seemed to be where I wanted it, I wondered how I'd get to the resonators with stock-style over-axle pipes. It turns out that the Summit pipes are cut directly over the axle and slip-fit together. I'm assuming that was to allow the tailpipes to be clocked for outboard springs, because it worked perfectly. I simply rotated them in the slip joint until the tails aligned with the resonators, cut, and slipped them into the resonators. I used band clamps here to facilitate later resonator replacement, if needed.
It's not a great shot since the site resizes pictures, but the nearly-complete system looks like this to the oil pan (which is actually the lowest point on the car):
Side shot shows very adequate ground clearance. The oil pan's a much larger concern, really.
The mufflers are tucked up quite nicely, too.
(Continued...)
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
The tips are subtle. The car is meant to be a sleeper, so no need to advertise what might be happening under the hood. The idle is mellow, if a bit choppy.
Is it perfect? Not by a long shot. Am I pretty happy with it for the first exhaust system I've ever attempted, using crap I had lying around? Hells yes! It's quiet inside the car, and during normal driving, but barks like a rabid dog when my foot's near the steering box. When I brought the car home, my next-door neighbors (a couple in their early 70s) were outside. They'd been listening to open headered-revs for a few weeks by then, so I started it up for 'em and wound it up a few times. I shut the car off and asked 'em what they thought. They looked at each other and Suzy said, "I liked it better before."
Always wanting to stay good with my neighbors, I ordered a couple of cheap V-bands from eBay and welded one side of each to 3" stubs left over from the X-pipe. The other side got a piece of flat steel welded into it:
These will get "fishmouth" cuts on the free ends and be mounted behind the X-section, right at the turns to go back to the mufflers. A couple of turns with a 1/2" wrench and it'll be wide-open exhaust...
...because having Suzy ***** about my exhaust system just won't do.
Is it perfect? Not by a long shot. Am I pretty happy with it for the first exhaust system I've ever attempted, using crap I had lying around? Hells yes! It's quiet inside the car, and during normal driving, but barks like a rabid dog when my foot's near the steering box. When I brought the car home, my next-door neighbors (a couple in their early 70s) were outside. They'd been listening to open headered-revs for a few weeks by then, so I started it up for 'em and wound it up a few times. I shut the car off and asked 'em what they thought. They looked at each other and Suzy said, "I liked it better before."
Always wanting to stay good with my neighbors, I ordered a couple of cheap V-bands from eBay and welded one side of each to 3" stubs left over from the X-pipe. The other side got a piece of flat steel welded into it:
These will get "fishmouth" cuts on the free ends and be mounted behind the X-section, right at the turns to go back to the mufflers. A couple of turns with a 1/2" wrench and it'll be wide-open exhaust...
...because having Suzy ***** about my exhaust system just won't do.
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
3” PreFabricated U Bends, up and over the rear axle.
Beer, SawZall, Mig Welder!
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