reddishdsb
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How long should you hone and can you hone out the small ridge on the top of the cylinder?
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honeing issues
- Thread starter reddishdsb
- Start date
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Sanguine
Well-Known Member
Yes...with a rigid hone...you'll be 3 years and a day with one of those cheap 3 finger jobies...
reddishdsb
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Yeah I got one of those cheap three finger jobs and have been honeing each cylinder for about 20 minutes, was just worried i may hone to much!
moper
Well-Known Member
You could just use a ridge reamer too...
Mark Nixon
Senior Moments Member
Generally speaking, if it has a ridge there and you got the pistons out, don't worry with the ridge, the piston rings came by, so there shouldn't be an issue when re-assembled and fired.
All that being said, if the ridges have any sharpness to them, or the pistons came out unwillingly, with some force, the block should be bored.
A ridge reamer needs to be cautiously used. Have a competent machinist SHOW you how it's used.
It boils down to taking out ONLY THE HIGHEST POINT (lowest blade depth) of the ridge, not ALL of the ridge.
The best tip: All cylinders wear oval, find the high spot and cut 'til the piston rings slide by. All it needs is a place to start by, no more.
NEVER knowingly run an engine with a sharp ridge, as this is a hot spot that'll lead to pre-ignition (detonation). This is why extremely high mileage engines will tend to detonate more than lower miles ones will.
Add to that the fact that high miles engines will tend to burn a little oil and you have the workings of a gas-fired diesel.
Mark.
All that being said, if the ridges have any sharpness to them, or the pistons came out unwillingly, with some force, the block should be bored.
A ridge reamer needs to be cautiously used. Have a competent machinist SHOW you how it's used.
It boils down to taking out ONLY THE HIGHEST POINT (lowest blade depth) of the ridge, not ALL of the ridge.
The best tip: All cylinders wear oval, find the high spot and cut 'til the piston rings slide by. All it needs is a place to start by, no more.
NEVER knowingly run an engine with a sharp ridge, as this is a hot spot that'll lead to pre-ignition (detonation). This is why extremely high mileage engines will tend to detonate more than lower miles ones will.
Add to that the fact that high miles engines will tend to burn a little oil and you have the workings of a gas-fired diesel.
Mark.
reddishdsb
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just a small ridge but i can snag it with my fingernail!
moper
Well-Known Member
I understand it a little different. The main thing is, as the exisiting rings wear, thhey rock slightly in the piston ring lands, and the pistons rock in the bores. That's why the bores go oval. What this creates is a rounded rigde from the worn bore surface to the untouched surface. New rings will always go right past it on the install because the ring compressor and existing chamfer let them move easy past it. Coming out, there is plenty of room, and no sharp edges on the rings or bore ridge, so they uslaully come out easy too. But when a new set of rings is put on, the sharp edge of the top ring hits the rounded edge of the wron side of the ridge. The rings can be broken, or fractured if the engine is run in that condition. I've always used a reamer to get very close, then the flex 3-stone hone to get rid of any ridge when I do ring and bearing jobs on high milage stuff.
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