Hood pins

[TheGrateRonzini]

Can anyone provide the measurements for the front and rear hood pins for the s/s? I have a pic or two, but would like them close. Maybe from the 90* pinch by the hood hinge and the front of the cowl. As for the front, they look like they can replace the most inboard of the fender bolts

 

[ns1rm21]

Are you working on a Dart or Cuda?

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Barracuda. Sorry I didn’t specify. I’m assuming center of the squarish low spot on the cowl.

 

[ns1rm21]

I have both a Dart and a Barracuda. The Barracuda is coming together now. I had the front end mocked and the hood pins were drilled before it went to paint. Hope these photos help.

 

[ns1rm21]

The front hood pins goes in the rad support.....these holes.

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Thanks a million! Exactly what I was after. Really appreciate it!
Ron

 

[ns1rm21]

Let me know if you need anything else and I’ll see if I can help.

 

[SSing]

Most, if not all Hurst built, have the hole between these two spots you see here. Jim Kramer`s Barracuda and Invader Dart.
Dean Nicopolis´ Barracuda has it even closer to the fender, but than again one have to be carefule as always.
Is it an original or not...
If you put it like in the first pic, (Kramer´s) no one can argue it´s wrong, since this is one detail noone ever had a reason to tamper with...

 

[ns1rm21]

Here is what I have found.
On the second picture above I see two problems. First problem I believe that location will only work with a modern “light weight” hood with no inner structure. On the hoods that I have seen there is a bulge that hangs down that is a continuance of where the hood hinge would bolt too if it was a steel hood. Second problem is I’m not sure that you can even get a nut to the back side of the hood pin because of the inner structure of the cowl vent. In the location where my hood pins are and with the inner vent removed it’s accessible.
Here is a picture of the back side of my Barracuda hood before I installed the hood pin bezels. The reason there is a larger hole drilled in the under side is so the spacer ( AKA heater hose) Will rest on a flat surface and get the hood to sit flush with the fenders and cowl. This technique was also used later in the A12 Bee’s and Road Runner’s with there fiberglass hoods.

 

[ns1rm21]

This is the photo that made my decision on where to put my pins.

 

[SSing]

Problems... Yes, cars were nothing but problems, if you want to see it that way.
Just wanted to show what Hurst shipped out. Guess I missunderstood OP...

 

[ns1rm21]

....and the fun thing about these cars is they were not consistent in building procedures. I have restored around ten Chrysler muscle cars to very high levels and let me tell you....they were easy compared to these LOs and BOs. The documentation on a TA Challenger is everywhere compared these cars. SSing, you have done a lot or research on these cars and I respect that and I appreciate it. You have found photos that I have never seen before and that is awesome. What I can say is this.....I have been very fortunate in my life time to have worked, talked too and even sold parts to the people that owned and built these cars when they were new and even up to modern times. My name was even on the side of Dave Rayburn’s BO for several seasons and that was a real car. No way will I ever say I know everything about these cars. No way will I say that I can restore these cars to “perfect as delivered” and to be honest with you I don’t think anybody can because they were such bastards when they were new. I have seen battery trays installed with the side mounting bolt facing the 1/4 panel and also facing the wheel well. Blue Gel coat fenders and hoods versus Black, LO wheel well cutouts and I don’t even want to talk about hood scoops.....those darn things came in all sorts of shapes and sizes. I’ll be honest with you, I have taken several liberties on both my clone LO and BO because I want to drive them and enjoy them. I not going to spend $10,000 on a set of real side glass just so it can break when you shut your door (Bill Bagshaw told me that is what happen to his side glass and the dealer could not get him a replacement.) The biggest kick I get is educating people about these cars. People just did not know that these cars ever existed in this format. Anyway I have rambled on long enough. The point I’m trying to make is maybe the hood pin hole was drilled 4” from the edge On this car and 7” from the edge on that car it’s still correct. Maybe the wheel wells were cut like “this” and maybe cut like “that” on another. No two of these cars were the same and I truly believe that. A truly interesting fact that Bob told me “I did most of the designing of the parts on these cars. But after I designed them the fabricators made them and often they were not close to what I designed”

Keep up the good work,

 

[Jet]

I've seen the back ones in different spots on original cars too.

 

[SSing]

Yes Troy, I´m not going to argue with you on this. Just have a slight different approch and judge each detail separatley. Yes, some parts and details was a give and take. But there were also a certin amount of consistancy in other parts and details, and I don´t want to fall for this "cars was just a crasy mix of parts put together" deal. It would be a good excuse for me to bolt anything I can find and call i a piece of 1968 SS/B Barracuda History...
So, I bacically only go with what I have seen in old car magazines. And besides who can tell me how the seats were bolted e.g. if you see what I mean...
As for the pics of the hoods above, It doesn´t say anything to me really.
My pic here shows pin needs to be further from the fender to be bolted as suggested is my take on this.
An actual photo of the pin would of cause change my mind.
Enough now from me on this.
Stay safe all.