How are guys matching factory paint ?

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pearljam724

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I have a 73 Dart that is a Y4 gold. All metal is mint with exception of one little section behind driver rear wheel on quarter panel has very minor rust/paint bubbles that I can easily fix. I believe the paint on it now is correct color. As I found places of original color up under roof drip edge. The color is actually a beige or almond appearance and nothing like a real gold color. I see a lot of Darts on line painted this exact color.

I have an automotive paint store nearby that can photo match paint. But, I have absolutely nothing I can remove from the car for them to match the color and the car won’t be registered for some time. What has worked for you guys along these lines ? I only want maybe 1/3 to f a quart for that section and some touch up spots. Telling these paint shops the paint code usually doesn’t work.
 
If u have a body shop close by h could ask them to come with there little light gun, can’t think what it’s called to match the color exact. Kim
 
Most body shops and automotive paint shops have an instrument called a spectrophotometer, (looks like a little light gun) used to match paint colors.

Since you have paint that has likely faded some, it's the most precise option.
 
I understand guys, thank you. But, it doesn’t do me any good if there’s nothing on the car that I can take to them to scan. That’s the dilemma.
 
pearljam724 said:
I understand guys, thank you. But, it doesn’t do me any good if there’s nothing on the car that I can take to them to scan. That’s the dilemma.
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Well then, use the original paint code and recipe...they will mix it to spec. If you aren’t matching anything, then take it all back to factory mix spec. and blend when you spray.

Otherwise, take a part or the entire car to be scanned or ask them to come to you and scan.
 
pearljam724 said:
I could take the fender tag. But, I think that’s too small.
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It’s not too small for the paint shop. But it won’t match the quarter. Normally if you want the original color you want something that isn’t exposed to the sun so you get the true factory color. In your case, you want it to match the paint on the exterior of the car, so you actually want something faded the same as the rest of the car. Because the exterior of your car is likely faded to some degree, so even if you had the original paint it wouldn’t necessarily be a perfect match to your car now.

On a ‘73 Dart you should have a rear valance that would be pretty easy to remove and transport. Either that or the quarter extension, that’s also small and pretty easy to remove and reinstall. And both are right next to the part you want to paint, so the match should be pretty good.
 
I would befriend an old body guy and ask what they did when the cars were 10y/o. Honestly, trying to match a single stage metallic with a base/clear or even the original PPG SS is going to be tough. I would take a sample of what you want to match, bring it to the store and isolate the new medium to the body lines and try to blend. I tried to match a 71 F7 sherwood green and it was wayyyy dark. I tried to do door and fender, but ended up having to from body line down. Both drivers doors and quarter. Better off trying to match what it is now or do a perspective point
 
Paint shop here took a devise out to the car and placed it against the quarter panel. It scanned the paint, uploaded it and spit out a code.
 
But, does it match match? Like to the paint freaks? And will it continue to match? You still need to blend, and it’ll be damn hard to get it to fade into one another
4spd340Swinger said:
Paint shop here took a devise out to the car and placed it against the quarter panel. It scanned the paint, uploaded it and spit out a code.
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Matched my single stage that was ten years old. Its a base coat/ clear. Only issue was sanding the clear down to match the old "sheen".
 
pearljam724 said:
I understand guys, thank you. But, it doesn’t do me any good if there’s nothing on the car that I can take to them to scan. That’s the dilemma.
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You can take your deck lid off in just a few minutes! If you mark where the hinges are with tape, the install is super easy!
 
TheGrateRonzini said:
trying to match a single stage metallic with a base/clear or even the original PPG SS is going to be tough.
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Actually, close to impossible. You did not mention how old and/or faded the paint was. That would have been nice to know. I truly wish you good luck. I see a repaint in your future.
 
pearljam724 said:
Not sure what you’re trying to say there, Kim ?
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It's called a Spectophotographer. They use this tool to scan your existing paint, then it gives them a formula to mix a match to your paint.

As with any bodywork/paint repair, you have to do the Paint to Match theory. Basically using a body line to break between old an new paint. Finding the least conspicuous area to do the final blend if doing a spot repair.

So you get the closest possible match, some professionals can tweek to match the final custom mix to get it as close as they can. Then they Paint to Match.

Basecoat/Clearcoat paint systems offer excellent blending capabilites with the clear coats, better than the single stage acrylic enamels that a lot of the early A bodies were painted with.

But yes Acrylic Enamel, still Paint to Match.
 
pearljam724 said:
I could take the fender tag. But, I think that’s too small.
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Have them come out to your place where your car is. If you have to pay them $50.00 for the trip out, it will be well worth it to get the paint to match.
 
Check with @MoparR&D he has a Duster about the same color you are looking for.

Ask him for the paint formula he is using on his car.
 
I've had real good luck with my local supply store photo matching several colors.

They need a flat surface about 5x7 to work with.

Can the OP not remove the deck lid?

I'd think that would be the easiest.
 
After my '65 Formula S was painted (I wanted factory original white) I found that the trunk latch/catch still had the original paint. Something inside the trunk would have been protected from UV damage, although oxygen in the atmosphere could affect paint color after 50 years also? The ash try (on the right in the photo) is the paint mixed locally without having had a physical reference to match.
Thread:
Not a Match (Paint)

trunk latch.JPG
 
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