How do you seal your small block oil pan?

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rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
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I am unsure of how to go about sealing my oil pan for my 416 build. The engine is based off a 340 block so I must use the 4 piece gasket set. I have a Kevko oil pan and am using Superformance gaskets/end seals.

So what is the correct method for ensuring a leak free pan with the set up? I have read countless times to 'just use some silicone in the corners'. Where exactly are we talking about? How does it get applied, smeared or gooped on? What kind? How much?

The stupid end seals re a little bit of a pain. I was able to pull the nubs through the holes in the sides but they don't really sit flat where the seal meets the block and timing cover.

So let's say I get them in there OK, then proceed with cinching the pan down. How/when is the silicone applied?

I tried to do this once already and made a mess. Again, I hate silicone but I know I need to use it.

Here's some pics of where I have questions. First is of the front under the timing cover. I believe that the seal should flatten out when the cover is on and the bolts are tight. Do I need silicone here though? The next pic is of the rear main cap. Where/how/how much/what type of silicone do you apply here? When does it get applied? Thanks for any input.
 

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I use solicone around the rubber gaskets.

Then gaskacinch on both sides of the long flat gaskets.

And some silicone in the corners and where the flat gaskets overlap the rubber end seals on the pan...


I would look more closely at your pan, the sealing flange/bead on it looks a little off (at an angle) maybe try to pound it back straight with a hammer.

You want the pan to sit flat on the block. Test it on a flat surface (table/floor) to see if it sits flat or not, then adjust as necessary.
 
I don't use the rubbers at all. Lay a big bead of RTV at the rear. I use something like Aviation 300 on the pan. When I get the pan on and bolted, I take a finger / towel and smooth the bead of RTV, then don't touch it (don't run it) for 2 days.

One big problem is a used pan with dimpled bolt holes. The pan flange MUST be straight and flat. And don't use the factory bolt torque. tighten the bolts "screwdriver handle" tight. If you use a ratchet, hold it around the top of the head like a screwdriver, don't use the handle at all.
 
Pan is new, from Kevko. I took it off to finish the job, I will re-check the pan and end rails for straightness.

Krazykuda, I am leery of using silicone or RTV around the rubber seals because it seems to squish out everywhere. When I did this previously, it went everywhere except where I wanted it so I took it off and scraped all the RTV out as best as I could. Are you saying put the silicone between the seal and the half-moon part of the pan?

Also, thought I don't plan on taking the pan off once it's on, using the tacky stuff on both sides essentially ensures it's going to be torn up on removal. Would putting the sticky tack on one side be OK? Not really understanding why the need for it on both sides of a paper gasket.
 
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