How hard can i rev?

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Swedishdart

Streetracer
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Location
Jonkoping, Sweden
I have 2 questions.

1: How hard can i rev my engine?

2: Can anyone tell me how fast i can run 1/4mile.... (Not exact times but around a number)

So my engine is as follows:
440 stock bore block heads and mains are ARP studs. Stock 413 forged crank and stock forged rods. TRW 10.75 forged pistons. Zero decked block.... Fully ported Stage VI alu heads 2.14intake 1.81 exhaust. Roller rockers Harland Sharp. Pete Jackson noisy Geardrive. Comp Cams: Duration: 294/299 Lift: 567/579 Lobe sep: 108. Singel Plane Mopar Stage VI intake Match ported. A holley 850dp carb. Mallory machanical ignition (dual breakers). 2" headers 3" open exhaust. The cam is rated at 3800-6800 rpm....

Tranny:
Stock 727TF with Cheetah manual valve body and a 10 3/4 converter.

Rearend:
8 3/4 with 4.56 gear.... 10*26" Slicks

The car in general:
1968 Dart Weighs about 1340Kg (2700lbs?)
 
you should be able to shift at 6500 rpm no problem, but when and if you do, check to see where that puts you for next gear. a good rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000rpm. keep that in mind.

your 1/4 mile time, hmmmmm.................... i'd say low 12's, high 11's? its hard to say, your RT and 60 foot time will decide alot.
 
You need less gear or a taller tire. 26" tall with 4.56 gears is gonna spin high.
 
I ran 12 flat with my old engine. Stock dual plane intake. Stock iron heads not 906 the ones with smaller valves... Same igniton system and exhaust.. A hydraulic cam from Doug Herbert..... And Stock driving tires... Couldt put to foot down until i got in to 2 gear...
 
redfastback said:
you should be able to shift at 6500 rpm no problem, but when and if you do, check to see where that puts you for next gear. a good rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000rpm. keep that in mind.

your 1/4 mile time, hmmmmm.................... i'd say low 12's, high 11's? its hard to say, your RT and 60 foot time will decide alot.
Click to expand...
Reaction times do not change ET, although a good 60ft time will improve your ET's

You can sit at the green light all day if you want to, the timers do not start until your tires leave the starting beam.

This is why a car with a slower ET can beat a car with a faster ET. The car with the faster ET slept will the car with the slower ET cut a good light.

Don't feel bad I lot of people think a quicker reaction time will net a quicker ET. I used to be one of them.
 
You can Rev anything ole thing to 7,000 rpm at least once or maybe twice. :razz:

Depends on how soon you want to rebuild it I would think.

I'd stick with 6500 unless you know how well built the bottom end and your valve train is. specifically Oiling system, Bearings, Engine balance, Valve springs and Retainers. Stud kits a good start but there are a lot of other things needed for a dependable higher revving engine.
 
Are you sure about the weight of the car - my 68 2dr post weighs 3150 with a small block, back seat removed and 10gal aluminum fuel cell. My 2dr ht weighed in at 3350 in basic stock trim.
I agree with others - you limiting factor is the stock rods - over 6500 is definitely pushing the envelope - thus you are not going to get the full potential of the cam. the TC should flash to at least 35-4000 to get a good launch. anything below will tend to bog off the line (except with 26" tires - it won't bog, just spin)
At a conservative 575hp, 3450lbs, 30"tire,4.56gears it claculates out to this:
E.T.: 10.64 Seconds
Trap Speed: 132 MPH
Trap RPM: 6,724 RPM
If you are as light as you say it is you will be in the 9s. -and thats not bad, just scary :color:
 
388dart said:
Are you sure about the weight of the car - my 68 2dr post weighs 3150 with a small block, back seat removed and 10gal aluminum fuel cell. My 2dr ht weighed in at 3350 in basic stock trim.
I agree with others - you limiting factor is the stock rods - over 6500 is definitely pushing the envelope - thus you are not going to get the full potential of the cam. the TC should flash to at least 35-4000 to get a good launch. anything below will tend to bog off the line (except with 26" tires - it won't bog, just spin)
At a conservative 575hp, 3450lbs, 30"tire,4.56gears it claculates out to this:
E.T.: 10.64 Seconds
Trap Speed: 132 MPH
Trap RPM: 6,724 RPM
If you are as light as you say it is you will be in the 9s. -and thats not bad, just scary :color:
Click to expand...


Yes with 25l gas a half full nitrous bottle and me in the car the car weighs 1340kg about 2950lbs.... Fiberglass fenders, hood and bumpers. Lexan windows. Dragrace seats. No rollcage :silent: No inner fenders.... and removed nitous system. And i´ve also new ARP rod bolts.
 
IMO, those pistons are too heavy to be spun to 7K reliably on a stock crank and rods. Raise the gearing to 3.91s or 4.10s, get a convertor that is a little more loose (11" will really nail the tires HARD) like a 3500 9", and run some 28" slicks, and if it doesnt run mid 10s, you have issues. I'd look to be trapping in the 6400 range. Good cam and head choices too. just need the "rest of the package". With it all sorted, I'd think low 10s is attainable in good air.
 
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