How I solved my 1974 Duster fuel gauge problem.

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cruiser

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Hi Guys and Gals. I know this topic has been visited many times, but I recently solved a long standing fuel gauge problem with my 1974 Duster and I'm passing along what I've learned. Let's start with the basics. My 225 auto Duster is very stock and original, including all electrical wiring. I replaced the gas tank with a new stock tank. The gauge cluster was professionally rebuilt with a solid state voltage limiter installed in the back of it. When I bought the car in 2019, the fuel gauge was really inaccurate, reading half full only forty miles after a fill up. I pulled the sending unit, and it wasn't the original one but it was a correct Chrysler part for the car. I replaced the sending unit with an aftermarket stainless steel one from NAPA and it wasn't much better - probably because they're made in Taiwan and calibrated incorrectly. After much testing and experimentation, I have now created a fuel quantity system that works accurately and reliably. Here's what I've learned. Maybe this will help you. First, I ran the engine dry of fuel, then filled it up all the way. "All the way" means letting the fuel nozzle turn off when it's full, then clicking the nozzle one more time to ensure that the system is all the way full. When I did this, the system took 15.1 gallons of gas, even though the owner's manual says that this is a 16 gallon tank. So this means that between the tank and filler neck, the system capacity is 15.1 gallons of gasoline. I then installed a Meter Match fuel gauge calibration unit. When the tank was empty, I removed the sending unit and calibrated the two end points of the fuel sender: Float all the way down (empty), and float all the way up (full). This calibrates the entire range in a linear scale, correcting the inaccurate logarithmic scale of the sender from the Taiwanese factory. Next, I did a series of proving runs with the car, consisting of steady state speed runs at 70 mph, starting with a full tank and running it down to 1/8 tank. Here's what I learned: At 70 mph, I get 15 mpg. With 15.1 gallons of useable fuel, that means that the car has an extreme range of 227 miles before the engine quits. I assumed that the filler neck holds about 1.5 gallons of gas, which means that there will then be 13.6 gallons of useable fuel remaining in the tank. I calibrated the upper end of my fuel gauge to read slightly over-full when the I gas up the car. In this way, the engine burns the filler neck fuel and the gas gauge needle moves down to the "full" mark when it begins burning tank (not filler neck) fuel. So going forward, if you do the math this means that every quarter of the fuel gauge represents 50 miles of range. Bottom line: 200 miles of range from "Full" to "Empty" on the gauge, after burning 27 miles of fuel from the filler neck. I then calculated and calibrated the 3/4 and 1/4 positions on the fuel gauge with the Meter Match. It was easy, and now I have a very accurate gas gauge in my Duster. If I drove at a steady 50 mph for an entire tank, I'm sure that I could get better mpg and range. So here's what you need to do to fix your A body inaccurate fuel gauge. 1: Install a new tank. At least you now know that you've got the right tank on the car. 2: Install a new aftermarket sending unit and ensure that all the wiring is correct, including the grounding strap, solid state voltage limiter, and correctly operating gas gauge in the instrument cluster. 3: Install a Meter Match and calibrate its high and low points with the sending unit out of the tank. Make sure that the sender is grounded when you do this. The attached photos show the Meter Match velcroed to the upper left kick panel in the front seat, and the unit's circuit board. 4: Fill your tank, then figure out how many miles correspond to the 3/4 and 1/4 marks on your gas gauge. When you drive the car at a steady speeds and see the calculated mileage on your odometer, stop and calibrate these two spots with your Meter Match. Doing all of this will give you a very accurate and reliable gas gauge, and you'll no longer have to worry about running out of gas with the gauge showing 3/8 full like I did. Good luck!

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You should consider the Tanks Inc. adjuster "box" to override stock sender and bring the gauge into spec.
 
I’m not understanding what it is the took the correction. The sending unit or the gauge or exactly how it was corrected.
Hi Guys and Gals. I know this topic has been visited many times, but I recently solved a long standing fuel gauge problem with my 1974 Duster and I'm passing along what I've learned. Let's start with the basics. My 225 auto Duster is very stock and original, including all electrical wiring. I replaced the gas tank with a new stock tank. The gauge cluster was professionally rebuilt with a solid state voltage limiter installed in the back of it. When I bought the car in 2019, the fuel gauge was really inaccurate, reading half full only forty miles after a fill up. I pulled the sending unit, and it wasn't the original one but it was a correct Chrysler part for the car. I replaced the sending unit with an aftermarket stainless steel one from NAPA and it wasn't much better - probably because they're made in Taiwan and calibrated incorrectly. After much testing and experimentation, I have now created a fuel quantity system that works accurately and reliably. Here's what I've learned. Maybe this will help you. First, I ran the engine dry of fuel, then filled it up all the way. "All the way" means letting the fuel nozzle turn off when it's full, then clicking the nozzle one more time to ensure that the system is all the way full. When I did this, the system took 15.1 gallons of gas, even though the owner's manual says that this is a 16 gallon tank. So this means that between the tank and filler neck, the system capacity is 15.1 gallons of gasoline. I then installed a Meter Match fuel gauge calibration unit. When the tank was empty, I removed the sending unit and calibrated the two end points of the fuel sender: Float all the way down (empty), and float all the way up (full). This calibrates the entire range in a linear scale, correcting the inaccurate logarithmic scale of the sender from the Taiwanese factory. Next, I did a series of proving runs with the car, consisting of steady state speed runs at 70 mph, starting with a full tank and running it down to 1/8 tank. Here's what I learned: At 70 mph, I get 15 mpg. With 15.1 gallons of useable fuel, that means that the car has an extreme range of 227 miles before the engine quits. I assumed that the filler neck holds about 1.5 gallons of gas, which means that there will then be 13.6 gallons of useable fuel remaining in the tank. I calibrated the upper end of my fuel gauge to read slightly over-full when the I gas up the car. In this way, the engine burns the filler neck fuel and the gas gauge needle moves down to the "full" mark when it begins burning tank (not filler neck) fuel. So going forward, if you do the math this means that every quarter of the fuel gauge represents 50 miles of range. Bottom line: 200 miles of range from "Full" to "Empty" on the gauge, after burning 27 miles of fuel from the filler neck. I then calculated and calibrated the 3/4 and 1/4 positions on the fuel gauge with the Meter Match. It was easy, and now I have a very accurate gas gauge in my Duster. If I drove at a steady 50 mph for an entire tank, I'm sure that I could get better mpg and range. So here's what you need to do to fix your A body inaccurate fuel gauge. 1: Install a new tank. At least you now know that you've got the right tank on the car. 2: Install a new aftermarket sending unit and ensure that all the wiring is correct, including the grounding strap, solid state voltage limiter, and correctly operating gas gauge in the instrument cluster. 3: Install a Meter Match and calibrate its high and low points with the sending unit out of the tank. Make sure that the sender is grounded when you do this. 4: Fill your tank, then figure out how many miles correspond to the 3/4 and 1/4 marks on your gas gauge. When you drive the car at a steady speeds and see the calculated mileage on your odometer, stop and calibrate these two spots with your Meter Match. Doing all of this will give you a very accurate and reliable gas gauge, and you'll no longer have to worry about running out of gas with the gauge showing 3/8 full like I did. Good luck!
 
Tanks Inc. makes a small electrical box that overrides the sender signal bringing the gauge into accuracy. It is called Meter Match, a fuel gauge interface, $84. It adjusts accuracy at all points of the sweep and allows you to add a warning light at any point in the sweep (like at empty).
 
I’m not understanding what it is the took the correction. The sending unit or the gauge or exactly how it was corrected.
MeterMatch allows you to mix and match different gauges and senders, or to make gauges more accurate. It can be used with many gauges that have resistive senders - such as fuel, oil pressure and temperature gauges. In addition, it allows you to have low and/or high set-points that will trigger a bright, blinking, LED indicator to alert if the gauge exceeds normal values.

It is housed in a small (2.4" x 1.85" x .93") enclosure that can be located behind the dashboard near the gauge. Wire connections are made via a screw-terminal strip inside.
 
I'm wondering now if this can be used with the Sun water temp. gauge that no one can locate a cheap sensor for? Last one I found on ebay was $140.00!!
Sorry, don't want to hijack this thread.
 
Actually I don't think Tanks invented the meter match, it originally was sold for a mite less, simply under the name "MeterMatch". This subject came up here several times. I don't know if I found it first or not. I did buy one and rigged it up. They do seem to work OK
 
More info on this please!
Murry's reply above should explain it. Quite simply, it processes the signal from the tank, correcting it before it reaches the gauge. Worked good for me. Seems about as accurate as a new car now. (And no, I don't work for them.)
 
You could also rewire the sending wire base to emulate the stock non square tank configuration of a Mopar tank that shares the same area as the spare tire. A good core would be valuable here. Just rewind the tapered bobbin, photo courtesy @toolmanmike
fuel sender Non-Linear Board.jpg
 
Okay how can i tell a match Meter will solve my problem i have installed new sending unit ,when i fill the gas tank ,the gauge will go to full but then around 40 miles the gauge will drop to empty ,the temp gauge works also .So would this Match Meter help me .Thanks
 
Okay how can i tell a match Meter will solve my problem i have installed new sending unit ,when i fill the gas tank ,the gauge will go to full but then around 40 miles the gauge will drop to empty ,the temp gauge works also .So would this Match Meter help me .Thanks
Yeah, the Meter Match will fix this. After installing it, you calibrate four points on your fuel gauge: Empty, 1/4, 3/4 and full. You have to do a bit of math beforehand, starting with how much fuel does an empty tank in your car actually take. I did this by running my car out of fuel - completely dry. I then filled it all the way to the top of the filler neck. My stock 1974 Duster with a new repro 16 gallon tank took 15.1 gallons of gas. So you now know (and calibrate) the empty and full points. You just have to run drive the car until it burns one quarter of its fuel, based on your known observed gas mileage. You stop and calibrate the gage at this point. You then do the same for the 1/4 point. Trust me, it'll work. It's not as hard as it sounds.
 
Yeah, the Meter Match will fix this. After installing it, you calibrate four points on your fuel gauge: Empty, 1/4, 3/4 and full. You have to do a bit of math beforehand, starting with how much fuel does an empty tank in your car actually take. I did this by running my car out of fuel - completely dry. I then filled it all the way to the top of the filler neck. My stock 1974 Duster with a new repro 16 gallon tank took 15.1 gallons of gas. So you now know (and calibrate) the empty and full points. You just have to run drive the car until it burns one quarter of its fuel, based on your known observed gas mileage. You stop and calibrate the gage at this point. You then do the same for the 1/4 point. Trust me, it'll work. It's not as hard as it sounds.
Thanks
 
I'm wondering now if this can be used with the Sun water temp. gauge that no one can locate a cheap sensor for? Last one I found on ebay was $140.00!!
Sorry, don't want to hijack this thread.
Yes it can
 
Just wanted to add another vote for the MeterMatch. Got it hooked up in my 67 Dart and it’s got my gauge reading just how I want it. I set points at E, 1/4, 1/2 and F so that it would be most accurate on the low side.

Here’s a couple photos someone may find helpful down the road. They show a pretty good way to wire it up to a 67/8/9 cluster without hacking into the existing wiring or having it all over the place. This way the MeterMatch can come out with the cluster if you ever need to take the cluster out.

The main thing is this little plastic hat washer that lets you get in the middle of the sender and the gauge. I made this one on a lathe but maybe you can find one. The lower wire (yellow) is to the sender and the upper wire (green) is to the guage. The positive (red) is just a crimp on tab bent 90 degrees and wedged in the regulator plug same as the capacitor. The ground (black) just goes to one of the screws holding the cluster together. No hacking into the existing wiring or modification of any original parts and this can easily be removed if needed.

My MeterMatch ends up just above the fuse panel and can be pulled out to do the programming.

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