How many using an A500 overdrive ?

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I ask if there was a slip yoke spline difference between 727 and the 500/518 ....no replys . I read this a while back. Maybe it was incorrect, not sure. So what have you guys been using (that has not created any problems) for the driveshaft slip yoke ??
 
I ordered a slip yoke for my A500, but I don’t know where the paperwork is right now, so I can’t give you a part number. I am measuring 1.680 on the outside diameter of the yoke. Here is a picture inside the end of the yoke, but I see full spines on the output of the transmission, no specific double wide one to fit that wide slot. Looks like it will go on in any position.
and yes, it does fit, I have driven the car, albeit only a few miles before the trans I paid someone to build for me crapped out, but not before they went out of business, hence me teaching myself how to do it correctly

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From the research I've done, it seems the spline count is the same, but the spline angle is different between the 727 and 518, so to do the swap you'll need a 518 slip yoke. I've noticed some aftermarket yokes are advertised to work for 727 and 518, but I'd bet they just machine extra spline clearance to work with either. I'd be uncomfortable using one of those.
 
I ordered a slip yoke for my A500, but I don’t know where the paperwork is right now, so I can’t give you a part number. I am measuring 1.680 on the outside diameter of the yoke. Here is a picture inside the end of the yoke, but I see full spines on the output of the transmission, no specific double wide one to fit that wide slot. Looks like it will go on in any position.

View attachment 1716188036
thank you
 
From the research I've done, it seems the spline count is the same, but the spline angle is different between the 727 and 518, so to do the swap you'll need a 518 slip yoke. I've noticed some aftermarket yokes are advertised to work for 727 and 518, but I'd bet they just machine extra spline clearance to work with either. I'd be uncomfortable using one of those.
thank you
 
I just spoke to precision torque converters https://gopnh.com/ They will build a lockup converter for an A-500 or A-518 to just about any spec you want. They said the can give up to in the area of 5500rpm stall and with a triple disc converter clutch and a billet cover.
this is interesting that they say they can build them with triple discs. I inquired with John Cope about WOT lockup function when I purchased my valve body from him and he stated that the single disk converter would slip (obviously) but he didn't state that triple disc options were available (maybe his converter supplier doesnt offer triple disc converters) if precision can indeed offer triple discs and fit in a stock bellhousing with say a 9.5" that would be HUGE. I've even contemplated adding a spacer between block and trans then running a billet cover to allow the extra clutches, kinda like the 2 and 3spd lockup 400s that are out there now for all the fast blower and turbo combos.
 
I ordered a slip yoke for my A500, but I don’t know where the paperwork is right now, so I can’t give you a part number. I am measuring 1.680 on the outside diameter of the yoke. Here is a picture inside the end of the yoke, but I see full spines on the output of the transmission, no specific double wide one to fit that wide slot. Looks like it will go on in any position.

View attachment 1716188036
The yoke you purchased...does it use the 7/8 inner circle type ujoint retainer clips ( regular mopar style)...or the full circle outter GM style ujoint retainer clips
 
If I understood correctly, all their converters above about (11 inch) 2300 stall are smaller dia, and have billet covers. But anyone who has questions, needs to contact them directly. That is why I included the link.
 
Just to add to this. The slant six never had a electrically controlled lockup (except maybe in a truck). That trans did not come out untill after the slant six was discontinued in cars (the electrical trans was not before 1988). I have a electrically controlled lock up V-8 904 trans, and a couple of slant six lockup transmissions. At some future date I am going to see if I can put all the V-8 guts (mechanical parts can swap, I don't know about the electrical parts) in the slant six case.
The oldest vehicle I've ever had with the electric control lockup was my 88 D100. 1st year of the TBI on a 318. The switch for the lockup looked suspiciously like a temp sending unit in an older /6 or 318
 
From the research I've done, it seems the spline count is the same, but the spline angle is different between the 727 and 518, so to do the swap you'll need a 518 slip yoke. I've noticed some aftermarket yokes are advertised to work for 727 and 518, but I'd bet they just machine extra spline clearance to work with either. I'd be uncomfortable using one of those.
I ask if there was a slip yoke spline difference between 727 and the 500/518 ....no replys . I read this a while back. Maybe it was incorrect, not sure. So what have you guys been using (that has not created any problems) for the driveshaft slip yoke ??
When I installed the A-500 in my Duster I used a 727 slip yoke. It is my understanding the A-500 and the A-518 both use that same 727 slip yoke. I have no first hand knowledge of the A-518.

Cley
 
Just to add to this. The slant six never had an electrically controlled lockup (except maybe in a truck). That trans did not come out untill after the slant six was discontinued in cars (the electrical trans was not before 1988). I have an electrically controlled lock up V-8 904 trans, and a couple of slant six lockup transmissions. At some future date I am going to see if I can put all the V-8 guts (mechanical parts can swap, I don't know about the electrical parts) in the slant six case.

I have a L/U slant 6 trans that is electronically controlled from an 87 truck in my 78 right now. Has the low first gear and factory high stall. Nice unit if you can find one.
 
I have a L/U slant 6 trans that is electronically controlled from an 87 truck in my 78 right now. Has the low first gear and factory high stall. Nice unit if you can find one.
That surprises me. That is the first electrically controlled LU slant six trans I have heard of. Is there any chance you can get the number off the trans? Thos numbers would be on the edge of the pan rail.
 
That surprises me. That is the first electrically controlled LU slant six trans I have heard of. Is there any chance you can get the number off the trans? Thos numbers would be on the edge of the pan rail.

PK 4431566 9450 1426

From what I found I think they were only late 86 into 87 on D150’s. Too bad because that means I scrapped one when I was young.

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Thanks. I knew they weren't on the cars, but wasn't sure about the trucks. Wish I could find one of those. But I'm hoping I can "build" one using a slant six case (modified) and the guts from a small block electrical LU trans. Won't know for a few months, as I have more important things to get done.
 
From the research I've done, it seems the spline count is the same, but the spline angle is different between the 727 and 518, so to do the swap you'll need a 518 slip yoke. I've noticed some aftermarket yokes are advertised to work for 727 and 518, but I'd bet they just machine extra spline clearance to work with either. I'd be uncomfortable using one of those.
for what it's worth, when I put an A500 in my M body, I think I was able to reuse the slip yoke from the original 998 tranny..IIRC I just had the stock driveshaft shortened...or did I pick up a 7290 ujoint 727 driveshaft to have shortened?...that was 18 years ago and I'm getting old and forgetful
 
What kind of HP can I expect to reliably put through an A500/42RH with a performance rebuild kit and not swapping HD components? Thinking around 400 but I would think torque plays into this as well.
Can anyone recommend a good kit to go with? I currently have a good working 1995 42RH out of a 5.2 2WD RAM with 140K on it. Will most likely upgrade the converter to around 3000 stall.
 
What kind of HP can I expect to reliably put through an A500/42RH with a performance rebuild kit and not swapping HD components? Thinking around 400 but I would think torque plays into this as well.
Can anyone recommend a good kit to go with? I currently have a good working 1995 42RH out of a 5.2 2WD RAM with 140K on it. Will most likely upgrade the converter to around 3000 stall.

Interested in this information also. I have one I plan on building up for a mild 5.9 mag build with the same stall range in mind.
 
for what it's worth, when I put an A500 in my M body, I think I was able to reuse the slip yoke from the original 998 tranny..IIRC I just had the stock driveshaft shortened...or did I pick up a 7290 ujoint 727 driveshaft to have shortened?...that was 18 years ago and I'm getting old and forgetful
you had to have also swapped rear ends....most M bodies Ive come across had 2.2 or 2.45 rear ends stock..... I had one with a 2.9, still too low for an OD to work
 
What kind of HP can I expect to reliably put through an A500/42RH with a performance rebuild kit and not swapping HD components? Thinking around 400 but I would think torque plays into this as well.
Can anyone recommend a good kit to go with? I currently have a good working 1995 42RH out of a 5.2 2WD RAM with 140K on it. Will most likely upgrade the converter to around 3000 stall.
as much as any good built 904. They are a 904 front half and the OD section is the same from an a500 All the way to a 48re add or subtract some clutches/steels depending on the model. You really don’t need to add a bunch of OD clutches as I don’t know too many with cars that are gonna beat on one in OD like the diesel guys do. However you can add a couple OD direct clutches (these are engaged anytime the vehicle moves minus 4th gear) very very simply by purchasing a 48re direct drum, apply plate and pressure plate.
 
I bought an A500 out of a 94-95 V6 Dakota. At some point I would like to install it into my 1962 Plymouth Fury station wagon (318 poly engine and A727 trans ) . the big issue is that the 62 Plymouth has the pushbutton gear selector system ( which I want to keep) . A&A transmissions has a converson kit from push button to normal linkage..$$$$ but it's $500.00. Not going to happen in the near future..if ever.

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you had to have also swapped rear ends....most M bodies Ive come across had 2.2 or 2.45 rear ends stock..... I had one with a 2.9, still too low for an OD to work
swapped in a B body 8 3/4" with a 3.55 limited slip. even with 27" tall tires I HATED the 3.55 with the 998 lockup it had stock. way too many revs on the highway at 70-75MPH. 70mph was 3100 RPM. OD dropped it down to about 2130 RPM, or equivalent to a 2.45 rear....for what it's worth, an F/M/J body rear is within 1/2" in width to an XJ cherokee axle (cherokee is a touch wider), and you can find 3.55 geared 8.25's out of one of them just about anywhere for chump change.
 
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I bought an A500 out of a 94-95 V6 Dakota. At some point I would like to install it into my 1962 Plymouth Fury station wagon (318 poly engine and A727 trans ) . the big issue is that the 62 Plymouth has the pushbutton gear selector system ( which I want to keep) . A&A transmissions has a converson kit from push button to normal linkage..$$$$ but it's $500.00. Not going to happen in the near future..if ever.

View attachment 1716190185
sweet. wonder if you could convert the pushbuttons to activate switches and then use a solenoid/actuator down at the tranny to move the shift lever instead of a purely mechanical linkage
 
sweet. wonder if you could convert the pushbuttons to activate switches and then use a solenoid/actuator down at the tranny to move the shift lever instead of a purely mechanical linkage
I have thought about that..just unsure how you would do it. Part of the problem is that the cable system uses 2 cables. One for gear selection, the other for park. About the only way to do it would be by using the Ebrake for park :(..sound bad. But for those old enough the early push button 2 seped torqueflites had an actual brake drun mounted on the back of the transmission..hence " Parking Brake "
 
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