How street able are these 340 stroker motors?

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DA4AD

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I want to replace the motor in my car with a 340.
Been looking and reading about the 340 stroker motors.
Of course it depends on how you build it, but are they a dependable performance street motor are are they more for racing?
I have several Blocks to chose from and I also already have the following parts;
- W2 heads with 2.08 valves.
- Single plane w2 intake.
- TTI W2 headers.
- Nice set of X heads.
- New Holley 750 double pumper.
- six pack intake (which I would really like to use)
- 1970 340 factory exhaust manifolds (which I would like to use)
I drive my car a lot and am not really interested in track performance. I currently have a 430hp 360. Would like to keep the hp close to this.
I would appreciate input for individuals with a 340 stroker.
Thanks
:burnout:
 
I wouldn't use the factory manifolds because it will restrict the breathing of the motor.
 
Street able has more to do with the Cam Selection then the cubic inches.

if you build it for the street, it will be.


With all thing equal, the bigger the motor the more street able it is.
 
I used 340 manifolds on a mild 416 and IMO I don't think they held it back much on the street. Had I been racing, I would have gone headers.
 
Three seasons with mine. I race it (at the track) and drive it on the street. 416 ci, .540" lift cam (mechanical) w2 headed with headers and a four speed. It has plenty of torque and hp. I have no complaints.
 
My pump gas 429 cu. fun cruiser stroker combo.

340 30 over block, with Bloomer performance kit, 4.125 crank, 9.7:1 compression, W2 heads with 2.08 intake valves, Holley strip dominator,
Hughes HER 4246 hydraulic roller kit, 950 Quick fuel carb.

570 hp @ 5800 with 570 torque @ 4600
14 inches of Vacuum @ 850 rpm.

Very fun fast cruiser Duster, with power brakes, power windows and air conditioning.
 
IMO a 430 hp stroker is generally quite a bit more streetable than a 430 hp 340. It's real easy to get 425-450 hp out of a 416. I had a 360 in my Cuda at first and I'd estimate it was doing right about 375 hp. Built a 408 (360 based stroker) with basically the same size cam, but a solid lifter version, and I bet it's doing every bit of 425 hp and has gobs more torque. Idles better than the 360 too. The much greater torque is a big benefit cause it doesn't need as low gears as a stock stroke engine does and that leads to a much more fun car to drive on the street. Mine takes off a lot harder with the 408 and 3.55 gears than the old 360 did with 4:10 gears and I can actually run 70 down the hwy now with little effort. Gets better fuel mileage too. Last weekend we went down the river road for about 120 miles. Several towns in between and we stopped a couple times. Even went for a 10+ mile scenic drive through Piere state park which isn't good for gas mileage and it still got 15.9 mpg and that's with a 750 double pumper (didn't tickle it much though). If you think about it stroking a small block is kinda like your converting it to big block size, yet it's still in the small/lighter weight package. Good heads are real important cause it needs good lungs and you've got that with W2's. I've seen X heads used on strokers and even prepped good they restrict the upper rpm's quite a bit. Same goes for the exhaust, gotta let the air out. I'd sell the X heads and 340 manifolds and buy a nice set of TTI's or Doug's headers if it were mine. Lots easier to work around than Hooker style headers. Get a custom ground cam for it to match the combination and it'll really come to life. I've had good results running Racer Brown cams. Also used a Bullet cam once in a 416 I built for a buddy and it runs fantastic. If you can swing a roller cam that's a great upgrade, if not a solid F/T is real close in power
 
I want to replace the motor in my car with a 340.
I drive my car a lot and am not really interested in track performance. I currently have a 430hp 360. Would like to keep the hp close to this.
I would appreciate input for individuals with a 340 stroker.

Sorry, I don't have one. But I have to ask why? Does the current 360 need a overhaul? If you build it with the stock manifolds, the six pack, and a streetable compression ratio, you'll have some more torque, and maybe a few more ponies........but is it worth the $$$ since you already have a 400+ hp engine in a basically street drivin car.....
 
It truly depends on the rest of the combination.

the rotating assembly of a stroker engine is usually capable of enduring just as many miles of street time as a stock factory 340, if not more.

I would advise you to be careful choosing the brand of crankshaft, and always go for a forged unit if your budget allows.

A stroker engine will create more torque overall because of it's increased displacement.

Typically in a street car, the more "unstreetable" the motor itself is the more torque is sacrificed at regular driving RPM to create more torque higher up in the RPM range.

For example, a mild street engine may make it's peak torque at 2600 RPM while a substantially modified engine with poor idle vacuum may make it's peak torque at 4600 RPM and require a high stall and short ratio rear gears to be used on the street at all.

As displacement is increased, the amount of RPM required to pull sufficient air/fuel mixture through the cylinder heads to make a given horsepower or torque number decreases.

This basically means that if everything else is equal (cam, heads, exhaust, intake, compression etc) a stroker motor will be more streetable than it's stock stroke equivalent.

That being said, usually the reason why people go a stroker is because their budget allows for a motor to be built to a higher state of tune regarding performance than what would be "streetable" if not for the stroker.

So ordinarily a person building a stroker will be more inclined to go with the "big" cam and the "big" heads because they can simply get away with "bigger" on the street. They have a LOT more low end torque to start with, so a bigger sacrifice is more acceptable.

That's why most stroker motors you see are likely to be fire breathing, choppy idle beasts that are seemingly remarkably efficient at making big horsepower numbers.

At the end of the day though, "Streetable" means different things to different people.
 
Hey Dan , assuming you still have the block I built it would work perfect for a stroker with those W2s.

The block is a 71 360 and has already been tubed for roller lifters and has had the oil galleys drilled and reamed for better topend lubrication. 71 blocks were actually 340 cores machined for larger mains and 4" bores. ( correct me if I am wrong )...

Those heads have been mildly ported using MP porting templates , 2.08 intakes , bronze guides ,titanium retainers and super trick Norris stainless bushed rockers.

If you go with a 408+ stroker kit and a .550 range cam you should end up with more HP and torque , better idle ,lots of vacuum at idle and great streetability....

I would have built it that way originally but back in the 90s stroker kits were not readily available and quite expensive.

Not sure why you want to go back to a340 since no one can tell unless they look for the #s on the block.
 
The gears,@ converter ,and desired results paramount here. Do you want brutal torque,with stock exhaust manifolds? A 408/416,will deliver. The W/2 setup,kind of throws it out of whack. A set of worked X's ,J's,or Eddy's apply here.I would seriously look at a split pattern cam,possible 12-14 degree split.:
 
Thanks everyone for the input and suggestions.
Made up my mind, going with a 340/416 forged steel crank stroker!
I have all the top end parts, and headers already.

Anyone build one with a Six Pac setup yet?
Thinking of using 440 carbs if they bolt up to the 340 intake.
:burnout:
 
Hey Dan , assuming you still have the block I built it would work perfect for a stroker with those W2s.

The block is a 71 360 and has already been tubed for roller lifters and has had the oil galleys drilled and reamed for better topend lubrication. 71 blocks were actually 340 cores machined for larger mains and 4" bores. ( correct me if I am wrong )...

Those heads have been mildly ported using MP porting templates , 2.08 intakes , bronze guides ,titanium retainers and super trick Norris stainless bushed rockers.

If you go with a 408+ stroker kit and a .550 range cam you should end up with more HP and torque , better idle ,lots of vacuum at idle and great streetability....

I would have built it that way originally but back in the 90s stroker kits were not readily available and quite expensive.

Not sure why you want to go back to a340 since no one can tell unless they look for the #s on the block.

Micheal, I received your email the other day but my internet is screwed up and i cant send emails.
your block is long gone, when the California kid popped the motor M&M cylinder heads in Cali swapped the block out for a 1978 model. Either the block was toast or they kept it once they seen all the machine work that was done inside it!
I think its just a rebuilt 1978 bottom end with a steel crank, I'll know more once i rip it out.

Here's the issue,
I have to pull that motor this winter for the following;
1) Fix a hole someone put in the firewall for air conditioning!
2) Install the missing heater box.
3) fix the passenger side inner fender, looks like someone used a torch to take out the UCA bushings and warped/burnt the inner fender.
4) Strengthen the K member and power steering box mount with welds.
5) Install power steering with a stage 3 firm feel box, 1.06 T bars, LCA reinforcement plates, sector support kit and tubular UCA.
6) Mock up the trans tunnel for the TR6060 six speed.

7) I HATE the solid roller cam/lifters! So while the motor is out I am changing the motor to a 340/416 stroker. I don't care when i get the motor back in but i have to do the other stuff. basically i only have to build the short block.
If i decide to use the X heads i will give you first grabs at the W2's.
Cheers.
:burnout:
 
I haven't yet used the six pack but I plan to for my 318.

I have been told that the manifold is somewhat restrictive on any motor that sees the far side of about 450hp, I don't expect I'll ever see quite that kinda performance out of my 318 but a stroker is a different story.

I strongly believe there is as much potential in the six-pack manifold as any other dual plane, I am keen to do some porting on mine before I install it.

The 440 and 340 carbs have the same bolt pattern and layout.

both systems are equal to about an 880 CFM four barrel carb. There is no additional airflow in the 440 six pack carburetors, they are just tuned differently. Both will most likely run lean on a modified motor.

Promax make metering block and plates to allow the factory six-pack carburetors to take Holley jets and be tuned just like any other Holley carburetor. (without these, tuning is a said to be a nightmare)

They also sell a throttle plate that has the idle air bleeds angled outwards for the rear carburetor, this allows adjustment without having to remove the rear carburetor from the motor.

Hope this helps
 
I haven't yet used the six pack but I plan to for my 318.

I have been told that the manifold is somewhat restrictive on any motor that sees the far side of about 450hp, I don't expect I'll ever see quite that kinda performance out of my 318 but a stroker is a different story.

I strongly believe there is as much potential in the six-pack manifold as any other dual plane, I am keen to do some porting on mine before I install it.

The 440 and 340 carbs have the same bolt pattern and layout.

both systems are equal to about an 880 CFM four barrel carb. There is no additional airflow in the 440 six pack carburetors, they are just tuned differently. Both will most likely run lean on a modified motor.

Promax make metering block and plates to allow the factory six-pack carburetors to take Holley jets and be tuned just like any other Holley carburetor. (without these, tuning is a said to be a nightmare)

They also sell a throttle plate that has the idle air bleeds angled outwards for the rear carburetor, this allows adjustment without having to remove the rear carburetor from the motor.

Hope this helps

Thanks, i knew about the throttle plate but not the metering blocks.
 
The extra cubic inches will add power everywhere,
This will allow you to run a less aggressive converter in an automatic , less rear end gear ratio.
Cam selection will be the most important factor for a streetable car.
I would think a cam with 112 or 114 lsa would be ideal for a broad power range.
 
Depending on the rest of the combo, using the 6bbl will lose you between 20-40+hp. A 416 I built had a small solid roller, Stage III ported RPMS, pump gas, street car, etc. Went 480 plus with the 6bbl, 530 with an RPM Air Gap and HP950 on the dyno. They look cool on a small block, but they really are not that good. Using a 440 set of carbs mean your jetting and air bleeds will be off. Otherwise they are the identical carbs. Also - the W2s won;t allow the 6bbl to bolt on.
 
Depending on the rest of the combo, using the 6bbl will lose you between 20-40+hp. A 416 I built had a small solid roller, Stage III ported RPMS, pump gas, street car, etc. Went 480 plus with the 6bbl, 530 with an RPM Air Gap and HP950 on the dyno. They look cool on a small block, but they really are not that good. Using a 440 set of carbs mean your jetting and air bleeds will be off. Otherwise they are the identical carbs. Also - the W2s won;t allow the 6bbl to bolt on.

Wow wouldn't think it would be a 50 hp diff. I know the w2 heads are specific but I do have the x's I could use.
Looks like the six pac, x heads and stock exhaust manifolds will really choke up a stroker, on the other hand the extra cubic inches would help it out perform a stock 340!
 
It all depends on combination and expectations. If you are going for all out, 500+hp small block a 6pack is a poor choice. A well thought street build with a 6pack won't leave much, if anything, on the table. On 8k drag screamer, yeah.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...dyno_testing_small_block_intakes/viewall.html

agreed, I personally believe that assuming a well tuned six pack on any motor will cause a 20hp restriction at the very least is very pessimistic.
 
I want to replace the motor in my car with a 340.
Been looking and reading about the 340 stroker motors.
I drive my car a lot and am not really interested in track performance. I currently have a 430hp 360. Would like to keep the hp close to this.

Sorry, I don't have one. But I have to ask why? Does the current 360 need a overhaul? If you build it with the stock manifolds, the six pack, and a streetable compression ratio, you'll have some more torque, and maybe a few more ponies........but is it worth the $$$ since you already have a 400+ hp engine in a basically street drivin car.....

I never got a answer about my above question. I'm still confused about what you want? Do you need a new build, is it just for the enjoyment of doing it, are you just looking to have the same power at a lower rpm???

If it's just for the 6bbl setup, just bolt it on with the "X's" and enjoy it. I just can't get past spending 3,4,5k on a new engine, just to have the same output as you currently have......

Maybe i'm missing something, or i should just bow out of this discussion.
 
I never got a answer about my above question. I'm still confused about what you want? Do you need a new build, is it just for the enjoyment of doing it, are you just looking to have the same power at a lower rpm???

If it's just for the 6bbl setup, just bolt it on with the "X's" and enjoy it. I just can't get past spending 3,4,5k on a new engine, just to have the same output as you currently have......

Maybe i'm missing something, or i should just bow out of this discussion.

As noted above, I hate the solid roller valve train (yes I know they are the best). I also am not a fan of headers (been there done that several times, several brands). The W2 heads are great but you can't bolt factory manifold to them (I believe there is an adapter out there). My goal with this car is to return it to a some what stock condition.

Oh, and my 360 is almost new.
http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-ve...-Dodge-360-V8-Motor-Engine-W0QQAdIdZ490666730

My car is a 340 so that is what I am going to install, which I have many to chose from.
Selling the 360 and/or parts of it will help pay for the stroker kit, MONEY IS NOT THE ISSUE?
I am already rebuilding a 340. I have made up my mind on the stroker kit.

hope this helps.
Cheers
:burnout:
 
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