How to Choose a Mopar Restoration Shop?

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rr4406pak

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So when you've decided to bring your car to a muscle car restoration shop for either a full or partial restoration, what do you guys look for?
I mean I am no Jay Leno with unlimited budget and my own mechanics on hand, but I can afford to restore a car or two. That means the super high end restorers are out for me.
How do you find the right shop? Just looking for ideas here. Thank you.
 
I would look for references. That in itself is the end all be all to me. Satisfied customers.
 
Go to a few big Mopar shows and ask a LOT of people if they had a shop restore their car. Then talk to all of the ones who did. Exchange phone numbers with them if you can in case you think of other questions later. Even the shops that are not "Big name" will be expensive.
 
Even the shops that are not "Big name" will be expensive.
That describes my friend right down the road, Freddie, although he's very reasonable. He'd rather do mechanical work, but he will take on body work and complete restorations under the right circumstances and he does fantastic work. All right in his back yard.
 
references, is kind of the be all, end all. i'd want to see past work-- especially stuff that's 10+ yrs old to see how it's held up, but also to see if they've grown and gotten better (shockingly this isn't always the case). finding out how long they've been in business, if they've had the same employees the whole time, and been in the same location is important.

i'd want to talk to somebody who wasn't entirely happy with their work and see why they weren't satisfied and how the shop handled the situation.

once you've kinda settled on somewhere be sure to ask about all the shop policies, what the contract stipulations are, what guarantees there are and what is your recourse if those guarantees aren't met.
 
If you are going for a "top notch" restoration, be ready to say good bye to your car for at least a year and possibly longer. The shop owner should allow you to check on the progress personally, as well as sending up updates in pictures. If you aren't able to check on the car in person, be sure to name someone that can look at it for you and document what they see.
 
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I, like many many others on here are only too familiar with this process.

Here's my list.

1. Decide what you actually want as a finished car before you start.

2. Get someone who is very familiar with bodywork to do an unbiased appraisal of what you are starting with.

3. Decide on a powertrain and stick with it.

4. Make sure you have all the parts already in-hand before you even start.

5. Put together a preliminary budget. Be prepared for it to change as you go.

6. Check with local car guys and ask where they had their vehicles done. Once you have narrowed it down to a particular shop, ask if they can provide examples of restos they have completed, then visit those references . Most will be only too happy to help.

7. Reputation and street /club cred is everything!!

8. If you are doing a full restoration , be prepared for a 1-2 year completion time.

9. Before you drop the car off, do a complete inventory , including as many pics as you can take.

10. If you are disassembling the car yourself, take lots of pics and bag&tag everything or use masking tape and write description and location of part on it.

11. Make sure your car is properly insured before dropping it off!!! Hagerty's have a great policy for this.

12. Once you have committed to a shop, make it clear up front, that you will be by weekly for progress updates. Don't be a pain in the ***, drop off some coffee and donuts as a sign of goodwill but make sure you are a regular fixture around the shop.

13. If you see something you don't like, say something. Its your money.

14. Never, never, pay full price up front. Pay when you come by weekly after determining a labor rate and go over the progress with the shop owner. Shops may require a deposit up front to start. That is acceptable but make sure shop owner is good with the way you want to pay.
 
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I, like many many others on here are only too familiar with this process.

Here's my list.

This!

All this, and to add if they ask for full or half up front , RUN. This means they are robbing Peter to pay Paul.
A shop that works off of a draw payment is more likely to be legit because it means they actually have working capital.
I have two juxtaposed experiences. One, I am out $12,500 and they asked for half up front, did enough work very early on to get me to give them $3000 more dollars. Ended up literally quitting work on the car and it stayed there for years with promise after promise.
Another one I had a limited scope of work needing to be completed which amounted to about $10,000 worth of work. He wanted just a few thousand to get started with agreed upon stages of completion that required payment before starting on the next phase. This made it to where if either of us wasn’t happy it would be easy for either of us to walk away. For example, if a life event happened to either of us the other wouldn’t be hit super hard.
 
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