Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
Im looking at Brewer's performance and in order to rebuild the very loose shifter, but I dont know how to tell the difference between the two types of shifters.
How to find out what style of shifter is in 3 speed with overdrive on the floor
- Thread starter Sirsmiley9
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Picture?
Numbers on the reverse lever, longest, on the shifter and is it a bolt on handle or slip in? Click on the "before you order" tab.
Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
unfortunately I dont have the car with me right now so in the next week I should be able to check and order it
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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You might need to have another look at what's loose.
In my experience, the looseness is usually at the interface between the shift lever on the side of the cover, and the studs coming out of the cover. Over the years the nuts have come loose so often, and then been retightened that the flats on both of those are no longer tight. I have tried several cures but the best is to take the cover off, pull out the studded levers, coat them with silicon O-ring lube, then slip them back in. Next, reinstall the levers, correctly oriented, then put a couple of drops of Red locktite at the interface, to fill up the cavity. Finally a couple of drops of Blue Loctite on new factory serrated washer-nuts, torque it up and set it down with the inside face of the cover horizontal and facing away from the bench. Come back every 10 minutes and shift the levers to make sure the red loctite has not migrated past the O-ring lube. After three times. it is ready to re-install.
Do not be tempted to use regular hex nuts with washers or split loc-washers,sometimes called "spring-washers", because they will come loose. In a pinch, you can reuse the factory serrated nuts.
And that solves that problem for many years.
All the other slop that may exist, on the street, IMO, is not a big deal with that trans......... because it will spend oh say 95% of it's life shuttling between first and second,lol.
unless the shift-handle is flopping around,lol, that's just so annoying.
In my experience, the looseness is usually at the interface between the shift lever on the side of the cover, and the studs coming out of the cover. Over the years the nuts have come loose so often, and then been retightened that the flats on both of those are no longer tight. I have tried several cures but the best is to take the cover off, pull out the studded levers, coat them with silicon O-ring lube, then slip them back in. Next, reinstall the levers, correctly oriented, then put a couple of drops of Red locktite at the interface, to fill up the cavity. Finally a couple of drops of Blue Loctite on new factory serrated washer-nuts, torque it up and set it down with the inside face of the cover horizontal and facing away from the bench. Come back every 10 minutes and shift the levers to make sure the red loctite has not migrated past the O-ring lube. After three times. it is ready to re-install.
Do not be tempted to use regular hex nuts with washers or split loc-washers,sometimes called "spring-washers", because they will come loose. In a pinch, you can reuse the factory serrated nuts.
And that solves that problem for many years.
All the other slop that may exist, on the street, IMO, is not a big deal with that trans......... because it will spend oh say 95% of it's life shuttling between first and second,lol.
unless the shift-handle is flopping around,lol, that's just so annoying.
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What transmission? Is it a three speed or four speed? It's one or the other, not both. The 833 over drive has the 833 designation, which is a FOUR SPEED. It has FOUR forward gears. Mopar did make some three speed over drive transmissions, but they were light duty and not comparable to the 833. SO if it has four forward gears, it's NOT a 3 speed over drive. It's a four speed whose high gear is over drive. This would help you get correct answers if you can clarify.
I had another thought. I might be an ITM or Inland shifter. Don't bother trying to fix it, get a Hurst shifter. First start by torquing the handle bolts, if it has them. Next, torque the shifter mounting bolts, 9/16 and 5/8. Get shifter clip and washer package, Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists , Some O/D A833's had hairpin clips. Next clean, blue loctite, and torque the shift arms to the transmission. I use grade 8 washers and nuts. Use the alignment tool and adjust the linkage rods for Neutral. Only then go into the shifter if that does not tighten it up.
Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
Ok it is a 4 speed with an overdrive designation i thought it was an overdrive then
Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
Would that tighten up the shifter itself at the moment it has a lot of play in each gear, and when you say get a hurst shifter do you mean get the entire assembly I know that on the arm itself it says hurst.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Well then there you go.........
No, only if it was not a Hurst. Usually replace the shims and get a new shifter sleeve, does the trick. I'd still make sure everything is torqued to spec. That can make a big difference. Not sure what a lot of play is... Side to side or 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 4th?
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