Hughes Roller rockers or my current?

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Jonnylightening

Jonnylightening

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So im looking for best bang for the buck here. Im trying to figure out which setup is most cost effective and more durable. Currently im using a 5/16 -3/8 stud mounted PRW 1.6 roller rockers. I ended up breaking one of the studs. So im debating on getting my head drilled for a 3/8 -3/8 stud and using a girdle or going with the Hughes 1.65 pedastal mount roller rockers. The Hughes units are $700ish but if you add in tbe cost of what ill need itll be close. The prices are roughly...
* 3/8-3/8 studs $100
* jomar girdle $170
* longer adjusters nuts $100
* machine work on the heads $160
* Valve cover spacer $140
Ill be running this on my EQ heads. Whats your guys opinion?
 
do you have your current rocker trunions set at height for correct mid lift geometry (changing requires new pushrods)
show your sweep
you are oiling through the pushrods
once sweep is at it's narrowest where is the stripe- centered or off to one side
changing requires changing rocker arm length
so get that get height and stripe sorted out first
 
Wyrmrider said:
do you have your current rocker trunions set at height for correct mid lift geometry (changing requires new pushrods)
show your sweep
you are oiling through the pushrods
once sweep is at it's narrowest where is the stripe- centered or off to one side
changing requires changing rocker arm length
so get that get height and stripe sorted out first
Click to expand...
If it helps ill get a pic of one of my valves... my engine is tore down so i cant get pics on how the geometry looks. Im planning on getting matching springs for whatever cam I get, new locks, retainers, seals, pushrods (correct length). My Question is do I spend money towards what I have or go with the Hughes Roller pedestal mount rockers. Im trying to get a $$$ list together to see where I need to be
 
I would bite the bullet and go Hughes if you have the $. I run Hughes rockers on my LA. I blew a good Magnum when an exhaust valve head drop in the cylinder. Chevy rockers suck.
 
This really depends on what type of person you are. Are you one that throws money at a problem or do you spend money and solve a problem? I would want to sort out why I broke the stud and then move forward from there. It could be a geometry issue that caused the problem which you don't fix just because you put in bigger studs.
 
I think we all want to see how wide the scrub pattern is on your valves so we can get at least some idea of how good/poor the prior geometry might have been. Pix would be nice of the tips, if is shows the scrub pattern, plus measure the width with a caliper and let us know. I won't 'preload' you with what would have been the ideal width.... let's get the real width as it is.

And it would be very helpful to you to go to the B3 Racing Engines site and digest the geometry tech articles. It'll get you on the same page, and really expand your knowledge; it's worth the time spent.
 
nm9stheham said:
I think we all want to see how wide the scrub pattern is on your valves so we can get at least some idea of how good/poor the prior geometry might have been. Pix would be nice of the tips, if is shows the scrub pattern, plus measure the width with a caliper and let us know. I won't 'preload' you with what would have been the ideal width.... let's get the real width as it is.

And it would be very helpful to you to go to the B3 Racing Engines site and digest the geometry tech articles. It'll get you on the same page, and really expand your knowledge; it's worth the time spent.
Click to expand...

nm9stheham said:
I think we all want to see how wide the scrub pattern is on your valves so we can get at least some idea of how good/poor the prior geometry might have been. Pix would be nice of the tips, if is shows the scrub pattern, plus measure the width with a caliper and let us know. I won't 'preload' you with what would have been the ideal width.... let's get the real width as it is.

And it would be very helpful to you to go to the B3 Racing Engines site and digest the geometry tech articles. It'll get you on the same page, and really expand your knowledge; it's worth the time spent.
Click to expand...

20200530_144146.jpg
 
Thanks. Looking at the width to very far edges of the scrub, pattern I would have thought more like .075" ???? Assuming an 8 mm valve with 6.5 mm on the top (after taking the bevel at the top of the stem into account), and that scrub looking like it is almost 1/3 of the way across? And I am honestly not trying to be obnoxious at all, just reeeealy wanting to be accurate..... I am trying to find some comparable pix of what I have found and for what is 'good'.

And I forgot.. what lift did you have here? Tnx
 
nm9stheham said:
Thanks. Looking at the width to very far edges of the scrub, pattern I would have thought more like .075" ???? Assuming an 8 mm valve with 6.5 mm on the top (after taking the bevel at the top of the stem into account), and that scrub looking like it is almost 1/3 of the way across? And I am honestly not trying to be obnoxious at all, just reeeealy wanting to be accurate..... I am trying to find some comparable pix of what I have found and for what is 'good'.

And I forgot.. what lift did you have here? Tnx
Click to expand...
nm9stheham said:
Thanks. Looking at the width to very far edges of the scrub, pattern I would have thought more like .075" ???? Assuming an 8 mm valve with 6.5 mm on the top (after taking the bevel at the top of the stem into account), and that scrub looking like it is almost 1/3 of the way across? And I am honestly not trying to be obnoxious at all, just reeeealy wanting to be accurate..... I am trying to find some comparable pix of what I have found and for what is 'good'.

And I forgot.. what lift did you have here? Tnx
Click to expand...
Lift was .454 both sides on 1.5 rocker, so .484 with my 1.6 and I used Hughes 1110 valve springs
 
OK, tnx. Been a while since I worked out the numbers, but for that lift, IIRC the ideal, minimal scrub width would at .030", or a hair less. (I'd have to work out the exact numbers to know for sure. I worked it out for .500" lift a while ago and it was .032" or .033")

That minimal scrub width will occur when a line from the rocker fulcrum's axis center to the roller contact point is perpendicular to the axis of the valve at 1/2 of the lift. That setup minimizes the velocity changes on the valve/spring induced by the rocker motion.
 
nm9stheham said:
OK, tnx. Been a while since I worked out the numbers, but for that lift, IIRC the ideal, minimal scrub width would at .030", or a hair less. (I'd have to work out the exact numbers to know for sure. I worked it out for .500" lift a while ago and it was .032" or .033")

That minimal scrub width will occur when a line from the rocker fulcrum's axis center to the roller contact point is perpendicular to the axis of the valve at 1/2 of the lift. That setup minimizes the velocity changes on the valve/spring induced by the rocker motion.
Click to expand...
Im going to keep this thread going at least til my rebuilds done. Im hoping to be able to hit the track yet this year. Finally were (PA) is getting the green light to go somewhat back to our normal lives. Our governor is IMO a piece of ****. So im gunna try and save where I can and spend where I should/need to. Im going to try and reuse my bearings if possible.
 
Since I have my engine apart and plan on running no more than 150 shot through it I wanted to get your guys opinions. Would I be safe to use my cast pistons and gap rings for the nitrous, or should I go with a forged piston? I found these on ebay for a cheap price.
Screenshot_20200531-070744.png
 
Jonnylightening said:
So im looking for best bang for the buck here. Im trying to figure out which setup is most cost effective and more durable. Currently im using a 5/16 -3/8 stud mounted PRW 1.6 roller rockers. I ended up breaking one of the studs. So im debating on getting my head drilled for a 3/8 -3/8 stud and using a girdle or going with the Hughes 1.65 pedastal mount roller rockers. The Hughes units are $700ish but if you add in tbe cost of what ill need itll be close. The prices are roughly...
* 3/8-3/8 studs $100
* jomar girdle $170
* longer adjusters nuts $100
* machine work on the heads $160
* Valve cover spacer $140
Ill be running this on my EQ heads. Whats your guys opinion?
Click to expand...

I would give Mike at B3 Racing a call and use what he recommends. I can highly recommend him after working with him to optimize my RB's valve train. My current motor is magnatudes smoother reving than any other RB i've built after using his gear.
 
Those pistons look to be for the earlier 318 poly. Not any higher compression that a lot of other 318 pistons.

Not sure those pistons are really forged..... whoever wrote the eBay listing may not really know. The TRW forged piston PN's that I used always started with 'L'. Here is a bit of info: trw piston question. forged or cast? - Chevelle Tech

Obviously, the forged piston is going to be more likely to survive with the nitrous.
 
At no more than a 150 shot. You'll be fine with a properly build lower end. Forged not needed. But everything needs to be set up properly.

For your viewing pleasure. Check out engine masters first season episode #13. Free on Netflix's right now. They talk about this very thing. They run cast piston Cheby up to the grenade point on Nos.

Or a short version on the "U" here.
 
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