I’ll just leave this right here…

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I'm not a fan of the fab look valve covers is all. I was just pokin you with the stick. It's a badass build. Even with them valve covers. lol


Sorry, only pics I have is what I posted. I am really bad about not taking pics. I always plan on it before I start the process then I get going and just leave my phone in my pocket.

It's all good about the valve covers. They were cool, to me, years ago when they first came out. Now they're everywhere and lost that custom fabricated look. Now they mass produce custom fabricated valve covers, lol.
I love the whole thing about the Direct Connection script and font. Really retro. Really like the anodized blue and gold covers like Moroso's. My favorites are the "tall" Mopar Performance covers that are unattainable. @oldkimmer is the only guy I know that has ever had them.
 
Nothing like a cool dry desert day for the correction factor to reduce the Chp numbers.

Solid build, should run well in the car.
 
I think I am going to put these on it.

View attachment 1715844662
I put some on my 66 Sat, they are cool as heck, but the chrome started a Lil rusting, but no peeling. that being said, the car was under carport and I live in the Lightning Capital... monsoons for almost 3 months straight, then ,being in FL, it can rain anytime also... maybe a Lil spray wax...
 
Did you use the windage tray with that oil pan? I’m doing a 416 right now with the same pan and am on the fence about using the tray…
 
Did you use the windage tray with that oil pan? I’m doing a 416 right now with the same pan and am on the fence about using the tray…

Did you use the windage tray with that oil pan? I’m doing a 416 right now with the same pan and am on the fence about using the tray…

No, actually. I bought the pan, studs, pickup, and windage tray from Summit and had them all sent straight to IMM. Brain emailed and we talked about the windage tray. Would require some slight modification to put it on (crank interference?) and he felt with the pan having such good baffling and kick-outs it really wasn't needed. That's one of the best LA builders suggestion so I would say you would be safe without it.
Kind of the same thing in regards to the Accusump. He said normally with the roadrace pan an accumulator isn't needed but in the most extreme situations the pick-up may come uncovered but unlikely. I'm going to use it anyway because of the pre-oiling and I have it.
 
Thanks…. I was thinking of leaving the tray off as well for the same reason…
 
No, actually. I bought the pan, studs, pickup, and windage tray from Summit and had them all sent straight to IMM. Brain emailed and we talked about the windage tray. Would require some slight modification to put it on (crank interference?) and he felt with the pan having such good baffling and kick-outs it really wasn't needed. That's one of the best LA builders suggestion so I would say you would be safe without it.
Kind of the same thing in regards to the Accusump. He said normally with the roadrace pan an accumulator isn't needed but in the most extreme situations the pick-up may come uncovered but unlikely. I'm going to use it anyway because of the pre-oiling and I have it.


The tray and the baffles do two entirely different things.
 
Because of the way the pan is made, the tray does not go on without major cutting, weakening the tray, and leaving much less available tray to do the work. This pan holds the oil quite a ways away from the rotator, so there would be no reason to run it.
 
Because of the way the pan is made, the tray does not go on without major cutting, weakening the tray, and leaving much less available tray to do the work. This pan holds the oil quite a ways away from the rotator, so there would be no reason to run it.

would the customers labor dollars spent on you modifying the windage tray not equal the potential HP gains of having the tray?

Like: a lot of money for a little gain?

We modified mine to fit. But we weren’t paying someone else to do it. And we were in uncharted territory since it was one of the first pans Milodon made (we didn’t know any better) ….There sure was cutting, bending, welding, trail and error fitting.
 
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would the customers labor dollars spent on you modifying the windage tray not equal the potential HP gains of having the tray?

Like: a lot of money for a little gain?

We modified mine to fit. But we weren’t paying someone else to do it. And we were in uncharted territory since it was one of the first pans…. There sure was cutting, bending, welding, trail and error fitting.

I tried adding a tray years ago to a customers engine after we dyno tested it...he set the hyd. clutch up a bit wrong once in the car and drove it about 5 miles when he noticed excessive noise at the back of the engine, so he pulled it out and brought it back to us to check it out...we replaced the main and rod bearings, and added a tray, then did another dyno session...with NO gains! This was using a Milodon 7qt pan, so the oil was lower than most other pans (about the same depth as the RR pan) and we always recommend running the oil level between the add mark and full mark.

If you plan on running a near stock oil pan, then a tray is going to be more functional, so it really depends on what you plan to do with it.
 
I tried adding a tray years ago to a customers engine after we dyno tested it...he set the hyd. clutch up a bit wrong once in the car and drove it about 5 miles when he noticed excessive noise at the back of the engine, so he pulled it out and brought it back to us to check it out...we replaced the main and rod bearings, and added a tray, then did another dyno session...with NO gains! This was using a Milodon 7qt pan, so the oil was lower than most other pans (about the same depth as the RR pan) and we always recommend running the oil level between the add mark and full mark.

If you plan on running a near stock oil pan, then a tray is going to be more functional, so it really depends on what you plan to do with it.

And both engines used a 4" stroke crank.
 
I tried adding a tray years ago to a customers engine after we dyno tested it...he set the hyd. clutch up a bit wrong once in the car and drove it about 5 miles when he noticed excessive noise at the back of the engine, so he pulled it out and brought it back to us to check it out...we replaced the main and rod bearings, and added a tray, then did another dyno session...with NO gains! This was using a Milodon 7qt pan, so the oil was lower than most other pans (about the same depth as the RR pan) and we always recommend running the oil level between the add mark and full mark.

If you plan on running a near stock oil pan, then a tray is going to be more functional, so it really depends on what you plan to do with it.

@ou812 Thank you for your practical and realistic approach.

BTW they are starting Will Morrales’ stroker 440 assembly today.

He’s the young guy we sent all the way from San Fernando Valley to your place for machine work. It’s for a 69 RR 4-speed car.
 
Because of the way the pan is made, the tray does not go on without major cutting, weakening the tray, and leaving much less available tray to do the work. This pan holds the oil quite a ways away from the rotator, so there would be no reason to run it.


In that case I personally wouldn’t use that pan, but that’s just me. I also wouldn’t cut it up to make a windage tray either.
 
@ou812 Thank you for your practical and realistic approach.

BTW they are starting Will Morrales’ stroker 440 assembly today.

He’s the young guy we sent all the way from San Fernando Valley to your place for machine work. It’s for a 69 RR 4-speed car.
Sweet!
 
I like those valve covers…. Kind of like my Moroso’s, great place for Sharpie notes :)
 
Thanks, Larry. Those parts I got from your 74 Duster are really helping with my 73.
 
I have a used set of aluminum Mopar Performance valve covers I’d sell if your interested. Text me at 16154796076.
 
Puzzling, I have a 4" crank with H-beam rods, 7qt Milodon pan, windage tray and pick up. I did not cut anything up for fitment. I did have to tweak a couple of spots on the tray, and I did strengthen that rear tab that they say likes to vibrate and break off.
 
Looks great! Just a note on the fuel cell. I have the same cell and mounted it sideways also. I ran into some issues with fuel starvation out of the hole. Aeromotive told me it was mounted incorrectly and I need the fuel pump at the back.
 
Looks great! Just a note on the fuel cell. I have the same cell and mounted it sideways also. I ran into some issues with fuel starvation out of the hole. Aeromotive told me it was mounted incorrectly and I need the fuel pump at the back.


Good to know, thanks. Are you using the bladder/baffle too?
 
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