I did the forbidden swap. No, not the LS LOL

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Blackhatguy

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No offense to all the fine folks who said it was a pain in the ***, because it is. Just not in the same way y'all thought.

 
I’ll be watching this. Hopefully you’ll come back with positive results. I’ve got a few 5.9 short blocks and a minty fresh set of W2s I’ve wanted to put together for a while.
 
I’ll be watching this. Hopefully you’ll come back with positive results. I’ve got a few 5.9 short blocks and a minty fresh set of W2s I’ve wanted to put together for a while.

By this weekend, I will have the results in. I'm still buttoning up a few things that you can see ain't quite put together yet, and then I got some tuning to do, but when I see that beautiful Texas tea oozing out of all the right places I'll make sure to snap a video.
 
Okay, I know I said I'd have it up and running by this weekend but screw that noise. I skipped dinner and got it cranked up about 20 minutes ago. We getting oil up top! It's filling up the rocker and coming out the dribbler hole to the valve tip just as planned:D:D:D don't look like much right now but that's only because the engine is off... I have to redo my intake manifold gasket, got a little milk in the tea:BangHead:

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Smaller...but 16 of them oil holes.
If you had some real nice heads.. I can definitely see this as a win. I like it.
What rocker again, prw or procomp or?
 
Smaller...but 16 of them oil holes.
If you had some real nice heads.. I can definitely see this as a win. I like it.
I got another 15 years before my youngest is out of the house, nicer heads are going to have to wait a minute.. in the meantime though these heads are flowing better and saving me 50 lb over my original Magnum heads so I'm as happy as a hog in slop at the moment
 
I like it also. Video please.
That one *is* going to have to wait till this weekend, once I discovered I'm leaking water into the oil I shut it off. I don't want to run the risk of scoring my bearings. Turns out I cut my intake flanges on the manifold down a little too far and had to double gasket. I don't think that's the issue by itself, but definitely a contributing factor because the bigger gasket has more squish and I ran out of bolt hole edge. It can't squeeze down to compress the gasket enough because the edge of the bolt hole is hitting the bolt. I'll clearance the bolt holes a little bit more and try some thicker gaskets, or a firmer gasket material if I can find it. Otherwise I might just have to spring for the Edelbrock intake manifold if I'm getting a new one.
 
I got another 15 years before my youngest is out of the house, nicer heads are going to have to wait a minute.. in the meantime though these heads are flowing better and saving me 50 lb over my original Magnum heads so I'm as happy as a hog in slop at the moment
Would you happen to be the guy with the x head on magnum idea..?
 
That one *is* going to have to wait till this weekend, once I discovered I'm leaking water into the oil I shut it off. I don't want to run the risk of scoring my bearings. Turns out I cut my intake flanges on the manifold down a little too far and had to double gasket. I don't think that's the issue by itself, but definitely a contributing factor because the bigger gasket has more squish and I ran out of bolt hole edge. It can't squeeze down to compress the gasket enough because the edge of the bolt hole is hitting the bolt. I'll clearance the bolt holes a little bit more and try some thicker gaskets, or a firmer gasket material if I can find it. Otherwise I might just have to spring for the Edelbrock intake manifold if I'm getting a new one.
Gasketcinch the two gaskets together if paper type .060 felpros or permatex brush.
Use rtv still at corners and around water crossovers. Always use washers under the intake bolts to get a nice torquing.
 
Gasketcinch the two gaskets together if paper type .060 felpros or permatex brush.
Use rtv still at corners and around water crossovers. Always use washers under the intake bolts to get a nice torquing.
For the double gasket job I brushed RTV on them and glued them together, waited until they dried and then put them on. I did do the RTV on the China rails and around the water ports as well. I think the biggest problem is simply that the bolts were bottoming out against the side of the bolt hole on the intake manifold. It couldn't travel downwards far enough to get a good squish because it's locked up against the side of the bolt. Being that I have .120 thick at each gasket now, I've got .125 gasket material at work that I can custom cut my own from, between that and relieving the bolt holes I'll have it right as rain by this weekend.
 
Nice. What casting/brand head and any idea of flow #
These are procomp/speedmaster 170 as cast. I did a moderately decent Port job on them here at the house. I used brass tubing to sleeve the push rod tunnels, and ground away all of the aluminum to open the pushrod pinch until I hit the brass. Worked on the roof and the sides, took the ridge off of the short turn, and that's about as far as I went. As far as how much it flows, I don't have a flow bench so that's all guess work at this point.
 
These are procomp/speedmaster 170 as cast. I did a moderately decent Port job on them here at the house. I used brass tubing to sleeve the push rod tunnels, and ground away all of the aluminum to open the pushrod pinch until I hit the brass. Worked on the roof and the sides, took the ridge off of the short turn, and that's about as far as I went. As far as how much it flows, I don't have a flow bench so that's all guess work at this point.
Gotta start somewhere. Awesome.
 
He did more good than bad there, I reckon! Bet it helps out quite a bit
That's what I like is a lot of people won't get it but he just made it work his own way like most of us do and that's great. Learn from everything you can incorporate any idea you can from any other make if it helps
 
Are you using a stock length Magnum pushrod?
.
The reason I ask this is that you are using a cupped adjuster instead of a ball adjuster.
Also did you plug the oil holes in the shaft since it does not need to be full of oil because the oil is going around the inside of the rocker arm?
 
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The reason I ask this is that you are using a cupped adjuster instead of a ball adjuster.
Also did you plug the oil holes in the shaft since it does not need to be full of oil because the oil is going around the inside of the rocker arm?
I had a similar thought about the shaft being full of oil, but could not convince myself that there was a downside to keeping oil in the shaft.
 
This block I had shaved to get the pistons at .010 below deck, and I'm using .028 gasket set. The heads are not shaved at all yet. I also wanted my adjusters up high to keep my fulcrum and contact points in line for best geometry I'm going to get short of a kit from b3.

All said and done and I end up using intake side pushrods from the 6.1 Gen 3 hemi. Fits like a glove.

The rocker shaft I left hollow because I could not find a downside to having them filled up, just consider it some reserve oil in the system.
 
It's all put back together now, I'll try to get a video of it running with the valve cover off to show the oil flow. I had a lot of little teething problems to overcome, pushrod clearance in the tunnels, manifold gaskets not sealing at the water passage, head casting needing clearanced for headers and power steering pump, valve covers needing clearanced because the lip hit the intake manifold, the list goes on and on. Finally got them all squared away.

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