I need a tutorial

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bighammer

bighammer

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I hope I dont wear out my welcome here by asking too much. I am hoping to combine a few things in this one post...

There are several things I want to get up to speed on. I am not looking for detailed info here, but some basic info.

First item: Windage tray
Why do people add them to the oil pan?

Second item:Stall converter
What does it do to your performance to upgrade to a different stall speed, and when is it recomended?

Third: Double roller timing chain
What is the reason / advantage for this item when running a stock lower end?

I have learned more here in the last several months than I could have possibly imagined. Thank you again and again.

For my application, I have a 1990 engine (360, of course) with only a documented 36 thousand miles (remanufactured). It is going to replace the 318 in my 70 Dart. It has an auto tranny with 8 3/4 rear end, all factory original.

I have purchased a few goodies here on FABO, Wieland intake, Holley 600 carb, M/T valve covers.

I am considering the upgrades I asked about above, (windage tray, stall converter, double roller chain) but I dont know if it will be worth the cost on my power plant. Obviously the car will never see the dragstrip, I want to feel a little extra HP when I get a chance to take it out - not a daily driver.

Thanks! :burnout:

Mark
 
bighammer said:
I hope I dont wear out my welcome here by asking too much. I am hoping to combine a few things in this one post...

There are several things I want to get up to speed on. I am not looking for detailed info here, but some basic info.

First item: Windage tray
Why do people add them to the oil pan?
It keeps the oil from getting blown all over the inside of the engine when revved.

Second item:Stall converter
What does it do to your performance to upgrade to a different stall speed, and when is it recomended?
This lets the engine get into the power band before it starts turning the drivetrain.

Third: Double roller timing chain
What is the reason / advantage for this item when running a stock lower end?
Double rollers are much stronger, and last longer.

I have learned more here in the last several months than I could have possibly imagined. Thank you again and again.

For my application, I have a 1990 engine (360, of course) with only a documented 36 thousand miles (remanufactured). It is going to replace the 318 in my 70 Dart. It has an auto tranny with 8 3/4 rear end, all factory original.

I have purchased a few goodies here on FABO, Wieland intake, Holley 600 carb, M/T valve covers.

I am considering the upgrades I asked about above, (windage tray, stall converter, double roller chain) but I dont know if it will be worth the cost on my power plant. Obviously the car will never see the dragstrip, I want to feel a little extra HP when I get a chance to take it out - not a daily driver.

Thanks! :burnout:

Mark
Click to expand...

I'll let others go into more detail on your usage if they wish.
 
From how you described your car usage "never see the dragstrip", and " I want to feel a little extra HP when I get a chance to take it out", I would recommend the following.

Windage tray = No
Converter = No (unless you put a much larger than stock cam in it).
Double roller = only if you are replacing the chain anyway, otherwise no need.

Save your money for making the car look good...just my 2 cents from how you described your car usage.
 
Stall converter is the best bang for your buck for seat of your pants performance. IMO A little warning to high of a rear gear will smoke even a small converter.
 
These mods are nice but not needed i would spend the dough on suspension and brakes so you can enjoy the extra power just my 2 cents. Call the crankscrapper store they will take the time to explain it and how a scaper or windage tray helps control how the chocolate milk (oil) gets through your motor and how the crank and such can whip air etc for proper oiling during running and turning from the oilpan. There number is 727-808-8602. Have fun.
 
flyfish said:
from how you described your car usage "never see the dragstrip", and " i want to feel a little extra hp when i get a chance to take it out", i would recommend the following.

Windage tray = no
converter = no (unless you put a much larger than stock cam in it).
Double roller = only if you are replacing the chain anyway, otherwise no need.

Save your money for making the car look good...just my 2 cents from how you described your car usage.
Click to expand...

x2
 
A few things you should know about your inquiry-

- Torque converters should be matched in their stall speed to the range of power in which your camshaft has been designed to deliver the most power and torque from your engine. You want the stall RPM speed at the beginning of the power band/ range of your engine. It's best to leave this idea alone until you have decided what you want to do with your car, then build the engine, then taylor the transmission, converter and rear gear ratio to it's use.

-Windage trays, while they don't necessarily help performance on a low RPM engine, help engine life by extending oil life, by bringing the oil temperature down, away from the rotating parts. Factory 340's had them for RPM, but they can and will help any engine in the long run. If you are building an engine, you can set this up easily, but it's not going to make a street car quicker. This should be done with a decent build, unless you're not going to run it up in RPM.

- The factory timing chain and gear set in your car is garbage. They used nylon silenced gears for "quieter" operation. What actually happens over time is the nylon bits get ground to hell or just break off completely, leaving a single roller chain without a few complete teeth on the gears to climb. If that chain gets loose from age, by being stretched, like most of them do, it can jump a tooth on the gears and desynchronize your valvetrain and cause engine damage like bent valves, marred pistons or catastrophic failure like a broken valve that could go anywhere or cause any amount of damage to the head or cylinder.

A double roller chain is cheap insurance. You will see some improvement on your ignition timing staying steady without a stretched chain, as well as ditching those gears. The OEM part + age is the biggest reason to get a new chain/ get a double roller set. They stock more double roller sets than replacement chains at AutoZone because of this.

If you are looking to spend money on your A body, the first place I would recommend doing it would be that chain, the ignition system and to rebuild the entire front suspension so it doesn't scrub tires. It would also pay to replace the master and slave cylinders, flex lines and surface wear parts in your brakes. If you have discs, get new calipers. If you don't have discs and want them, '73+ setup with the upper control arm and proportioning block is a relatively inexpensive swap.
 
Great answers! I have lots to think about, some really good points made above. Thanks for the well thought out responses!

Looks to me like I will focus on drive train components.

Thanks for your answers!
 
bighammer said:
Great answers! I have lots to think about, some really good points made above. Thanks for the well thought out responses!

Looks to me like I will focus on drive train components.

Thanks for your answers!
Click to expand...

Herte's a different take on double roller timing chains:

Back in 1972 bounght a used 340 engine and drivertrain out of a 340 Demon (1971) that had been rolled over in a highway accident.

It had 13,000 miles on it.

I stuck it in my '64 Valiant, drove it for a thousand miles and decided to change cams.

When I took the front cover off the engine, I discovered a factory double roller timing chain (340 standard issue) that had a distressingly large amount of slack in it. It scared me; that's how loose it was.

I replaced it (along with the cam) with a new, stock 318 timing chain with the conventional links.

Dunno how that chain got so loose in only 14,000 miles, but it did.

Just sayin'....:happy1:
 
Oh an milodon road racing oil with help as well.
 
Cam manufactures will suggest a stall converter to use with there cams. If no suggestion was made, it is probably a small cam or the info is left out.
 
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