no
I believe power goes to the center pin.Then each of the others is grounded thru the switchs. This is what I have been told.
So in your drawing, the yellow wire should receive 12v power, and the pink should run to one switch, while the dark wire should run to the other. And then on each of those snap-switches, the second pin goes to ground.
The yellow supply wire should come from the ignition run circuit. That's the small-gauge blue wire under the hood, at the ballast resistor.. You can also pull run power out of the fuse box. Or my favorite, run it off a battery powered relay, triggered from the run circuit.
Check out Trailbeasts garage, maybe his set-up is shown there.
Could just be me but this looks a bit like a starter solenoid and neutral safety switch. Are you trying to control OD and LU? Is this a 46RH or RE?
no
In your drawing;
#1 from the Trans connector goes only to one of the switchs, say to the upper switch; and from
#3 only to the other switch, say the lower switch.
Both of the still unconnected snap switch terminals, would then go to any chassis ground
The yellow wire in the center at #2, is the 12v supply and it should go to an ignition circuit that is hot in Run and turns off with the Ignition switch.
I assume the box in the upper left is a relay, But it appears not to be connected correctly. But it's hard to tell by the identifiying letters.Just make sure it is a fused source that turns on and off with the ignition switch.
Could just be me but this looks a bit like a starter solenoid and neutral safety switch. Are you trying to control OD and LU? Is this a 46RH or RE?
Question 1.- Yes
Question 2.- is a 46rh 2 pin
If it's a 2 pin there's no lock up, OD only. Are you looking for automatic control or just manually switching?
The switch needs to be inline, between the neutral safety and the OD solenoid. Power goes in one side and out the other. So when the switch is off the circuit it's open and when on, sends 12+ to the OD solenoid.
The neutral safety switch isn't involved at all.
Switched 12v to the red wire on the trans connector.
Black wire from the other pin on the connector to the switch.
From the switch to ground.
This is without a relay.
View attachment 1715391648
I finally understood, many, many thanks for your help.
!!!NO!!!!! There are TWO SEPARATE connectors on hydraulic trans with OD.
1...The neutral safety switch sticks out "horizontally." This is the 3 pin switch---the center pin goes up to the starter relay and GROUNDS the relay in park or neutral so that it will operate when powered from the ignition switch "start" power
The two outside terminals are the reverse switch. One terminal gets 12V from ignition switch, and the other outside terminal powers up the reverse lights with transmission in reverse
2....The OD switch points upwards VERTICALLY and is mounted somewhat above the NSS on a "shelf" near the shifter shaft. This one is the switch which is discussed earlier in this thread.
Here we go........a photo stolen from the web.......
View attachment 1715659169
So NSS really is only going to serve my need for reverse lights? It won’t really interrupt starting circuit? (Unless adding in a relay that closes when the NSS grounds)OK NSS is ground only. So you need a relay, or else if you are using an aftermarket shifter, AKA Hurst etc some of those have a series wired type switch. But even those are "light duty" switches, and need a relay. Modern Mopars like hemis and Magnums used Bosch style relays so that would work.
Same relay setup I’m using for my fan and fuel. So we may be saying the same thing. I could essentially use the center pin on the NSS as the 85 ground of my relay, giving me a “safety Neutral Switch”, yes?No the NSS is two separate switches in one "box." The two outer pins are one switch, which is for reverse. The center pin is the NSS which is a separate switch, and it goes to ground in park or neutral
What is so hard? About using a relay. EASY. Look up "Bosch Relay"
View attachment 1715659196
Connect 30 to a substantial 12V power, as this runs the solenoid which draws a fair amount of current, use no12 wire and it really should be fused/ breaker
The solenoid connects to the "normally open" (NO) contact, 87
85 is one end of the coil and you run a wire from here to the center pin of your NSS
86 is the coil "hot" end and this goes to one end of your start source, in this case your push button. Other terminal of push button goes to 12V. This can be light duty wire as the coil draws little
87A does not get connected.