I wanna drag race----help

-
kanders

kanders

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
392
Reaction score
4
Location
St.Albert, Alberta
So, I have this 71 Duster 340 with a 4 gear, no engine and an 8 3/4 with 4:30 gears. I bought it to get back into drag racing which I haven't done for 30 years (kids and life have a way of changing priorities). I need lots of info and was hoping the very knowledgeable people on this great site might give me a hand. I have some specific questions that some of you may have some experience with so here goes:
How large of tire will fit in this car without tubbing, with the 4:30 gear I will need tall.

With the 340/360 stroker kits do I need forged crank and H beam rods for reliable 6800 RPM or will the cast crank with I beam be sufficient. I would like to run 10.5:1 comp.

With cost versus performance in mind will I save any money reworking a set of factory heads or am I just better off with a set of Edelbrock alum heads.

I,d like to run in the mid to low 12's and still cruise on weekends.Will I need a special driveshaft. FYI it already has yukon axles.

The car came with a 4 speed but is not original as the car was auto from the factory.
How do I find out if this tranny is beefy enough for my needs. Some #s cast into the main body are C 99129 V and some stamped above it are 6G118979.

Thank you in advance for any help.
 
I would use a stroker kit with a forged crank and scat I beam 4340 rods...

properly geared and cammed....a stroked small block should get into the mid to low 12 with ease...with either reworked stock heads or eddy heads...... might want to look at the new RHS/Indy cast iron heads.

dont know about 4 speeds.....but driveshaft and rear end should be ok
 
Thanks Tony
I saw those advertised in a magazine or somewhere but the price once they were complete didn't seem to be a whole lot cheaper than the eddy's. Maybe I misunderstood the pricing.
Kev
 
DO YOU HAVE A MOTOR AND WHAT IS IT? IF ALL YOU WANT IS 12 SEC. NOT HARD, MILD MOTOR. A 370 HP. WITH A 904 TRANS WITH A 4800 STALL REVERS MANUALE VALVE BODY AND 430 GEAR 30X10.5X15 SLICK.WILL DO LOW 12'S GOOD LUCK gARY
 
kanders said:
How large of tire will fit in this car without tubbing, with the 4:30 gear I will need tall.
Click to expand...

NHRA Stocker guys run a 9 x 30 Hoosier tire without tubs or spring relocation. They also usually run a 4.30-4.88 gear so you should be good.

kanders said:
With the 340/360 stroker kits do I need forged crank and H beam rods for reliable 6800 RPM or will the cast crank with I beam be sufficient. I would like to run 10.5:1 comp.
Click to expand...

There's guys on this site running low 11s with a cast crank.

kanders said:
With cost versus performance in mind will I save any money reworking a set of factory heads or am I just better off with a set of Edelbrock alum heads.
Click to expand...

Edelbrock heads have to be the best bang for the buck. If the literature is to be believed, they flow better than stock heads and are lighter too. Plus they're new castings.

kanders said:
I,d like to run in the mid to low 12's and still cruise on weekends.Will I need a special driveshaft. FYI it already has yukon axles.
Click to expand...

Probably not though an aluminum or carbon fiber one would save weight. Obviously just make sure to balance it and get the pinion angle correct. A billet differential yoke is also a good idea.

 
Gary
I don't have a motor yet. I cant decide on a stroked 340 or a 360. I guess the 360 would be cheaper for the core. I want to stick with the 4 gear for now(I love shiftin). Where I am the altitude is 2500 ft. It takes a little more to get those lower time slips although I was just at the Rocky Mountain Nationals this weekend and a Hemi Orange 70 Duster took the trophy in 2 events. I don't know what he was running under the hood but he ran low
11's. Super consistent.
Kev
 
rmchrgr
Is the billet yoke steel or aluminum? Who sells alum driveshafts?
Thanks everyone for all the info, this excellent stuff!
 
kanders said:
rmchrgr
Is the billet yoke steel or aluminum? Who sells alum driveshafts?
Click to expand...

A company called Denny's Driveshaft makes aluminum driveshafts. Big bucks. You don't need it.

Mancini Racing sells billet yokes both in steel or aluminum, aluminum is more expensive.
 
The 360 will be eaiser to come by than a 340 and you only give up 8 cu.in. in stroker form. I always say" Buy the best and you'll never be disapointed!" I would build as strong of bottom end as you can afford. Same with the heads, before I would spend the time and money on a set of iron heads, I would go the eddy route, They are lighter and you have the ability to port them and go faster. On a 4speed car, I would go with the 002 003 Super Stock springs, And I would back brace your housing.
 
I can get 4" 1350 yoked driveshafts for in the 50-75 range. They are used shafts but tough as nails. Hard to get lengths over 47" though.

There is or was a guy close to me that was building shafts for about $250 with yoke and 1350 joints.
 
Any idea if the driveshaft is the same for a 4 speed or automatic? My car didn't come with one(must have been optional) and I need to find one anyhow. How fast would I have to go before I need subframe connectors?
Would I need super stock springs to run in the 12's.
I know,I know.... too many questions !!!!!
 
kanders said:
Gary
I don't have a motor yet. I cant decide on a stroked 340 or a 360. I guess the 360 would be cheaper for the core. I want to stick with the 4 gear for now(I love shiftin). Where I am the altitude is 2500 ft. It takes a little more to get those lower time slips although I was just at the Rocky Mountain Nationals this weekend and a Hemi Orange 70 Duster took the trophy in 2 events. I don't know what he was running under the hood but he ran low
11's. Super consistent.
Kev
Click to expand...
MY 72 DART IS A 20 OVER 360 BUT IT IS CLARANCED AND BALANCED WITH CAST J HEADS PORTED I'M RUNING A SOLID ROLER CAM 13.5 COMP. MSD IGN. ELECT W/PUMP NO ALT. 2 BATT. IN TRUNK. 750 PRO FORM CARB. ON ELDO. AIR GAP 904 TRANS 8IN. 5000. STALL CONV. AND 488 GEARS WITH STK SUPN SPRING MOVED IN FOR TIRES 31X10.5X15 M/T SLICKS I RUN 6.9 IN 1/8 0N MOTOR AT 100.9 MPH THATS 10.8 IN 1/4 SAVE MONEY MAYBE A 360 IV'E GONE 6.40 ON A 150 SHOT. GOOD LUCK GARY:cheers:
 
kanders said:
Any idea if the driveshaft is the same for a 4 speed or automatic? My car didn't come with one(must have been optional) and I need to find one anyhow. How fast would I have to go before I need subframe connectors?
Would I need super stock springs to run in the 12's.
I know,I know.... too many questions !!!!!
Click to expand...

I would install the subframe connectors. I assume your going to be side stepping the clutch at 4500-6500 RPm ? Yes I say you need the SS springs. Becides have you ever heard a racer say " I'm going way to fast, I need a smaller engine?" If you run 12's you'll want to run 11"s etc.
 
Here is my two cents: I would definitely go with a forged crank and H or I beam rods for 6800 rpm... engine will last or build it to run 7000 rpm and shift at 6000 or 6500...you won't lose that much time in the 1/4.

I would go with the eddy heads, you will save the weight and they flow a little better. Cost isn't that much higher than getting a set of stock heads reworked. ( I am changing to the edelbrock heads this winter and will have a set of 340 j heads for sale.

Your stock driveshaft will work fine, but if you want something a little stronger I would recommend rocky mountain drive shafts.

I would change the car back to an auto; I am running a 727 with no problems. This will make you more consistent and help you win a few races and it is a lot easier to launch.

If you are in Colorado, there are a few guys that run darts and dusters at pueblo motorsports. There is a race 17 and 18 July if you can make it.

Chris
 
take a look at this

360 with W5 heads [Re: huey408]
#5326275 - 07:48 01/07/2009 Attachment (43 downloads)
it's on moparts

here is his ad
Need to sell soon, Moving back to TX and do not want to take with me.
This motor is .030 over with cast crank, flat top pistons, stock rods, deep pan, hyd. roller cam .535/.531 lift Comp cams. W5 heads have 2.05/1.60 valves, no port work totally stock,springs match cam, roller rockers. Matching W5 single plane intake and Mopar Performance valve covers. It has not been ran since I freshened up the motor. It is a great street/strip motor. It ran consistent 7.65's in the 1/8 in a 3300 pound Duster on pump gas. $2800

I have a set of W5 headers for an A-body Mopar for extra money if the buyer wants them. They are Headmans. $400

Kim Humphrey
[email protected]
865-724-8877



That is a deal!!!!
 
Sorry for the break guys, got so into this discussion I forgot to go home.
Crackedback where would used 4" driveshafts come from. I don't know the length I need since I don't currently have one.

sgbarracuda you're right, if things go the way I suspect they will I'm sure that I'll want to go FASTER! Are there better or worse connectors on the market.

JokerDart I know an automatic will be more consistent the tunnel would have to be cut and changed back to auto and I would have to find a tranny,converter, good trans builder etc. Right now I'm trying to stay on the
KISS program(keep it simple stupid). I,m not in the Colorado area I'm in the more northern Rockies area, Alberta Canada.

71produster that engine looks interesting, I'll have to get in touch with him.
Thanks again to all who responded. Kev
 
With a 4-speed and 4.30 gears, you should be able to run a 27"-28" tire without a problem. I run 4.10 gears with 28-9X15 MT ET Drags(which are actually 27.3" tall) and a 727 auto trans with LUPO 5000 stall. I've ran my old 340 1/8th mile and 1/4, it works great either way.
 
stock stroke 360, KB-191 [email protected] over, OOTB Eddy heads, air gap, comp XE-282 solid cam, 1-5/8 dougs headers, 3500 PTC converter, 904, 4.30 gears in a 3200# Dart = 12.40's @ 5800'. It's easier than you think.
 
darndart said:
With a 4-speed and 4.30 gears, you should be able to run a 27"-28" tire without a problem. I run 4.10 gears with 28-9X15 MT ET Drags(which are actually 27.3" tall) and a 727 auto trans with LUPO 5000 stall. I've ran my old 340 1/8th mile and 1/4, it works great either way.
Click to expand...

What kind of times did you run in the 1/4 mile, what kind of RPM are you doing through the traps(traps is the correct terminology?) with the 411's.
(hope that Quote thing worked, I'm still learnin this forum tech stuff).
 
kanders said:
What kind of times did you run in the 1/4 mile, what kind of RPM are you doing through the traps(traps is the correct terminology?) with the 411's.
(hope that Quote thing worked, I'm still learnin this forum tech stuff).
Click to expand...

I ran it 2 summers ago in Marion SD and ran 11.90@ 110.(cross the traps @ about 6500 rpm. I normally run it at the local 1/8th mile track. It runs fairly consistant 7.5-7.6's @ 89 mph. I haven't had the engine out of the car in 7 years. Its a 70 340, stock crank, stock rods, TRW forged replacement pistons (10.5:1) MP 557 solid cam, 915(J) heads that I ported at home myself, MP single plane, 750 HP Proform carb, 727 auto with 2.77 low gear set, manual reverse VB, Frank Lupo 5000 stall, 8 3/4 with spool & 4.10's, Orignal 73 Dart 340 leaf springs with Cal-Tracs, 3275 Lbs with me in it. 90/10's up front w/6 cyl torsion bars. If you have any more questons, don't hesitate to ask.
 
kanders. your story soumds like mine. I raced in the 70's Then got married had a family. Then when my daughter was in highschool I got back into racing around 97. Except I started with a 440 72 Scamp w/727. It ran 6.40's with the SS springs 4.88 gear and 29.5 x 11.5 slicks. I moved the springs into the fram rails and had plenty of tire clearance. Then the itch to go faster, bought a 67 Sg barracuda. It ran 5.80's 1/8. See it's a desease, gotta go faster!!!!!!!!
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
kanders. your story soumds like mine. I raced in the 70's Then got married had a family. Then when my daughter was in highschool I got back into racing around 97. Except I started with a 440 72 Scamp w/727. It ran 6.40's with the SS springs 4.88 gear and 29.5 x 11.5 slicks. I moved the springs into the fram rails and had plenty of tire clearance. Then the itch to go faster, bought a 67 Sg barracuda. It ran 5.80's 1/8. See it's a desease, gotta go faster!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Its funny how the need for speed never leaves you. Our local track was ploughed under in favor of new housing in the 80's. It took a long time (15 years) to get a new track. By then I had the whole family thing going. Now my 2 girls are driving on their own and I'm FREE FREE FREE. I'm actually a blue oval guy but I had a 71 plum crazy 340 duster in 1976 and won a lot of races with it. It was indestructable and a blast to drive. I cant wait to get this one running and smell the sweet aroma of burning rubber again. Just
need some more info, a few parts and PRESTO, back in the fast lane.
 
This is what happens when you get reinfected with the need for speed. "All I want is a car to run 7.50's in the 1/8th" That is what i said in 97.


67-1.jpg
 
For a driveshaft, contact these guys. Spaek to Joel.

ALLSTATE DRIVESHAFT 760-228-1127

They have an e-bay store. I got one from them, shipped for $250. NICE piece.

codfish
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top