I wiped a *&^@$%#*^ lobe off my cam,

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I've also heard that using additives is not as good as using an oil with the additive mixed in during the making of the oil product ???

That's exactly what I was thinking John. If something is mixed in already it is everywhere. If you dump an additive in, it doesn't automaticlly mix in the entire body of oil.

I was out at noon today looking at oil. I found some Rotella T that had a CG and CJ-4, CJ-4+ rating. I am wondering if it will do the trick.


Jack
 
Sucks Jack !
I run the CompXE 268 and really like it. Hopefully you will too.

Hmm... I better think about my oil.... so does the Valvoline Racing oil say that on the bottle ? "Racing" or what oil is recommended anymore ?

I guess I need to go read the oil threads..

-RPM
 
Rotella no longer has enough ZDDP in it. They changed it a year or so ago.

During cam break-in, you now need to use the special break-in additives as standard oil is no longer sufficient.

Not all racing oils contain enough additives for street engines. They usually
lack the proper detergents to keep things clean (race engine get torn down quite frequently with very little miles on them). Some of them dont contain enough ZDDP either. For example, Valvoline VR-1 only has about 1000-1100 PPM, which is borderline for a stock engine.

Too much ZDDP can be just as bad as not enough. Too little causes excessive wear. Too much causes metal spaulling.

Using ZDDP oil additives can be a real nightmare. First you have to know the PPM of the oil you are using. Then you need to know the PPM of the additive. Then you have to calculate the amount of additive you need in relation to that specific oil. Cant go too high or too low, or you cause problems. Topping off the oil when you need it is just as much a pain.

I switched to Brad Penn oil as well. It contains the proper amounts for regular engines as well as engines with bigger cams and higher spring pressures. Stock engines need around 1100-1200 PPM. Engines with higher spring pressures require around 1500 PPM. Brad Penn has 1500 PPM. Costs about the same as regular oil. No worry about getting the mixture right with additives. Just keep a bottle in your car and top of as needed. Always the correct amount of ZDDP.

I looked at all of the alternatives, and this was the best for me. I always keep a couple of cases on hand now.
 
I was out again looking for oil. What a pain in the butt. Napa has thier house brand in a 15w-40 that has a CI-4 rating. I also found some Comp Cams break-in additive that the local engine shop says is good. Any opinions?

Jack
 
My engine builder suggested Comp Cam break in oil as well. There are a couple of distributors in Canada for Brad Penn oil as well. I think that I will go that direction for all my subsequent oil changes.
 
I was out again looking for oil. What a pain in the butt. Napa has thier house brand in a 15w-40 that has a CI-4 rating. I also found some Comp Cams break-in additive that the local engine shop says is good. Any opinions?

Jack

Check out www.bradpennracing.com

They have a break-in oil specifically designed for that purpose.

Also, check with your cam manufacturer. They should be able to recommend what is best for their product.
 
I was out again looking for oil. What a pain in the butt. Napa has thier house brand in a 15w-40 that has a CI-4 rating. I also found some Comp Cams break-in additive that the local engine shop says is good. Any opinions?

Jack

Napa can order you the Valvoline Racing Oil that has the zinc in it. I think it is about 5.00 per quart 20/50. They usually order it for me and it is there the same afternoon or next morning.
 
Comp cams has been having problems with their cams,my engine builder went through THREE on someone else's build before getting one that did'nt wipe out a lobe with little to no mileage on them..buyer beware!!!
 
Oh and if you wiped a cam lobe that metal went somewhere,peace of mind would be too take that motor apart and check everything,you'd be surprised where that stuff ends up...
 
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