Idler arm removal

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67bluefish

67bluefish

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I'm in the process of replacing the bushings on my front suspension, and am now trying to remove the passenger inner tie rod end from my idler arm ('67 fastback, 273). The pickle fork I've been hammering on isn't doing squat to separate them. Any suggestions?

Thanks - Alex
 
How big is your hammer? No, I'm not joking

Sometimes, you need to get tension on the fork/ puller, then give a good solid whack on the "end" of the eye of the center link. This causes the eye to instantaneously deform and "pops" the taper loose.

Turn the wheels, etc, until you get a clear shot at the end of the center link, IE looking nearly "straight in" at the side of the wheel wheel "inline" with the center link, so you can swing the hammer. This is best done on a lift, where you can swing underneath.

Get tension on the fork/ puller, then give the end of the center link a solid blow.
 
Sometimes the order of removal can make a big difference. Like if the draglink ,etc.. was still attached you have a more rigid something to hit. Steering to one end can help too.
if the draglink is floating, you could drive it all 18 holes and not get it apart.
Good luck with it.
 
Go to an Auto parts chain that rents tools and rent a tie rod end removal tool. they come in a couple sizes. Auto Zone for one, rents tools for free. You just have to put a deposit down equal to the tool value and you get it back when you return it. Or...don't return it and it's yours. Have done that a few times. Can't beat free.

Use the tool to apply a separating force and if it doesn't quite do it, whack the side of the rod end with a hammer and it will usually pop right off. I don't like using pickle forks because it will gouge the castings and typically ruins the seal. I have a pickle fork that fits into my air hammer and it is BRUTAL, always works but I only use it as a last resort.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, all. I've tried the BFH approach, although I may see if I can jack the car up higher to get an even BIGGER BFH (would that be a RBFH?) on to it. I hadn't thought to reconnect the driver's side tie rod - that may provide the pushback, so to speak, that I need.

I think the Autozone rental approach is most likely the way I will go - I'd rather not do any more hammering that I have to. We'll see how it all goes, and I'll report back once progress rears its head! (Or I hit mine against the wall, whichever comes first.)

Thanks again!
Alex
 
In my late 40's as arthritis started to march onwards, the smartest thing I ever did was to buy a Great Big Proto ball pein "dead blow" hammer. These are hollow and have weights inside. When you "hit" something, they REALLY "hit."

You can easily "see" the difference by just taking a "reglar" hammer and a dead blow and giving each a medium smack on a concrete floor or solid (anvil) etc. The "reglar" hammer BOUNCES. The "dead blow" pretty much stops---all the energy as been transferred to the target.

Mine is black. Maybe if the damn thing was red I wouldn't misplace it, LOL

3014315204
 
I agree with KosmicKuda. If you plan on using the old tie rods, this is a must to prevent damage to them. If your junking them get a bigger hammer, and if you have a torch, heat them up just a little bit helps.
 
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