Ignition Help

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DART340

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I am running msd6btm, msd distributor, msd wires. The problem is the little black conductor in the top inside of the cap keeps disintergrating. The last cap I put on was about 3 weeks back and I think its going bad already. I will go out in a few minutes and take it apart and check again. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance, Dan

Oh and on a different note, My engine is a smallblock stroker with 10lbs boost. I am running an M1 single plane with a 2" 4 hole spacer. I get so much wheelspin so I was thinking of eliminating the spacer to slow down the low end torque. Would I loose power also, or would it just move the power to a higher rpm?
 
Do not kill any low end power...Work on the suspension until it hooks well enough to break some driveline parts then upgrade those parts til ya blow a head gasket...then O-ring the block til ya' til yer' doors start shuttin' like they did on them 77' monte carlo's...you know were you gotta lift and slam at the same time...then add roll cage!!!! You work on that thing until it HOOKS up like my lawn mower ....never under any circumstances kill any power bottom end OR top end!!!!

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NGK GAPPED AT 32. I checked all my plugs and just #1 was really black so I switched cylinders and will recheck that. As far as traction its a 72 swinger with glass hood, fenders,bumpers and valance. 90/10 up front, slant 6 torsion bars, out back 8.75, 3.55 gears, pinion snubber, inset springs, 002,003 springs, 315/60/15 mt drag radials. Full cage and sub frame connectors. Not sure waht to do nest on that. Lost last night to a big block 87 stang cuz he kept pullin me out the hole. Gotta hate that.
 
My best guess is that when you run an MSD ignition with vacuum advance, the rotor to cap indexing is critical because the Msd will fire the spark plug through 20 crank degrees of rotation .When the timing is advanced by the mechanical advance the rotor to cap phasing doesn't change..the reluctor moves with the rotor, with the vacuum advance the pick up coil moves ,this changes the rotor to cap indexing .Probably as much as 15 degrees ( full vacuum advance) + the MSD's 20 crankshaft degrees (at lower RPM's)=35 crank degrees x 1/2=17.5 rotor degrees.Since the 8 plug wires are 45 degrees apart it becomes possible to have the rotor pointing in between to two terminals on the cap when the coil tries to fire the plug (worst case scenerio)Since you didn't mention any mis-fire problems I'll assume you're probably just getting excessive rotor tip to cap terminal clearance under vacuum advance.Ohm's law says...Voltage drops ...Amps go up...up enough to melt Carbon (5000 degrees F) and Since FREEDOM DIED on Jan.20,2009 the only FIREWORKS goin on this 4th of JULY will be under your distributor cap!!!!!
 
I highly doubt that vacuum advance is being run on a race car.

I would start by opening the gap up to 45* unless you have over 11:1 comp then go to 40*. 32* seems tight. Are you doing a really good burnout with those tires? I know my buddy has to get his really hot to get them to stick on launch.
 
I HIGHLY DOUBT he's running 11 to 1 compression WITH 10 lbs. of BOOST unless running on METHANOL????????
 
This suggests you're getting spark jumping from the carbon centre button to the rotor spring. Use a BlueStreak cap (CH-409X) and an Echlin long-tip rotor (MO-3000; make sure the one you get is tan and not white). Before you install the rotor, bend the stainless spring firmly upward (by hand) so it'll make firm contact with the cap's centre button. Then carefully but firmly squeeze its rivet with a bench vise or ChanelLock pliers to make sure it's firmly set. That should solve your cap burn-up problem.
 
Thats the funny thing, I used to do a burnout with my 275/60/15 mt but now with the 315's and line loc it will turn the tires maybe twice then just start pushing the fron tires(7.50x28 mt on 4" telstars
 
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