ignition switch, whats wrong

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rm69dart

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ok my car is a 69 dart had a universal ignition switch with bunch of wires hooked up to the ignition plug, so i purchased a reproduction switch looks just like original, plug right in to the ignition plug. new switch has same operating has accessories, off, on, start. NOW THIS IS WHATS WRONG CAR STARTS BUT ONCE IT GOES BACK TO THE ON OR RUN POSITION IT TURNS OFF. PLEASE HELP. CAR HAS A NEW STARTER RELAY AND BATTERY. OH AND ONCE A 6 CYL AND NOW V8. THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE
 
Well get your test light or meter out and CHECK it

You have FOUR completely separate switches inside the "ignition switch" container

ACCESSORY supplies power to the fuse box accessory buss. HOT in "run" or "acc"

IGNITION RUN Traditionally blue, is hot ONLY in "RUN" Goes to the cluster gauges, warning lights, and through the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor and IGN terminal of the regulator. Sometimes called "IGN 1" by Chrysler HOT in "run" NOT hot in "start." NOT FUSED

START HOT only in "start" is usually yellow, goes from the switch, through the bulkhead, to one of the push-on terminals of the starter relay

BYPASS-- HOT only in "start" is usually brown, goes from switch, through the bulkhead, to the COIL + side of the ballast. NOT FUSED. Gives you hot voltage during cranking to provide a hot spark. If the ballast is bad, it will fire on this and die when back to run. Sometimes called "IGN 2" by Chrysler
 
ok i think we are getting some where guys i forgot to say i put electronic ignition some time back on the car, could i have hooked up the resistor wires wrong?
 
yes it did really good it wasn't a hi tech ignition distributor it is small block. on oem resistor it had one wire and a double wire hook up to it. on the new resistor that came with the new distributor i have one new wire from the coil to the resistor and the oem double wire. wondering if this correct. hey thanks for helping out on this.
 
Just as a quick test, pull the wires off the ballast resistor, the ceramic piece on the firewall, and put a jumper in the wires and try it. If it stays running replace the ballast.
 
well guys it is not the ballast resister didn't have to much time to work on car. any more advice would help. thanks
 
Well, get your test light and a wiring diagram out and go to work

Usable wiring diagrams:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69DartB.jpg

Look at diagram "A" and find your IGN switch

RED is hot power coming from the ammeter circuit

BLACK is a big wire feeding out to the fuse ACC buss

DARK BLUE (IGN1) is HOT ONLY in RUN ( NOT start) and feeds through the bulkhead to the IGN system and regulator

YELLOW is "start" HOT only in START goes directly through the bulkhead to one of the push on terminals on the start relay. The relay must be grounded through the neutral safety switch to operate if automatic, otherwise "where" the other terminal would have been is grounded to the relay case on stick cars

BROWN is "bypass" (IGN2) is HOT only in START and goes directly through the bulkhead to (ORIGINALLY) the coil+ side of the ballast

THE DARK BLUE AND THE BROWN must be hooked together if you have no ballast such as for MSD

So get your test lamp, hook it to wherever the IGN gets power and or check at the regulator IGN terminal. You should have "close to battery" with key in "run."
IF not check at the bulkhead. If you have it there, go back to the IGN switch. The switch terminals should be marked

YOU MUST UNDERSTAND that the dark blue "run" IS NOT HOT during "start" so starting voltage can ONLY come from the brown "bypass" circuit.
 
Mine did this with the original switch. Bought a replacement and it appeared physically the same and it did the same thing as the new one. Both in hand I noticed they were the same but two of the contacts were labeled different. Check the backside of the switches and confirm that all contact locations are the same. I had to swap 2 wires in the actual plug and reinstalled it. Worked fine then. The labels are molded into the back of each switch.
 
the blue wire through at the bulkhead was cracked and bittel. took off the blue wire and connector from bulkhead and soidered a pig tail. put all back and it worked. the chargeing system is working better now. thanks
 
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