Ignition switch

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Darter6

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The ignition switch in my 64 dart is shot and had some melt down in the wiring.So I'm in there doing a re-wire.I'm thinking of going to a toggle switch and a button start.Not too sure of how to wire that kind of set up.
Asking if anybody will show me the way to wire ? Thanks in advance.
 
Is this strip only or a street car?

What are you using for an ignition system?

In general, what loads and acessories do you have?
 
Bare bones, only lights and wipers to make street legal.
Mopar electronic ignition.Not much to power up.
 
Bare bones, only lights and wipers to make street legal.
Mopar electronic ignition.Not much to power up.

The problem with using a toggle/ PB and using this type of ignition, is that you should come up with an alternative method for ballast resistor bypass during start.

There are a few ways to do this

One is to use the later "Jeep" style starter relay, which has an additional contact:

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/StarterRelay.jpg

another is to add a generic (Bosch) Relay that's fired in parallel with the starter relay, and use it to feed the ignition bypass

yet another is to install a diode from the start wire on the starter relay to the hot side of the coil.

If you have an auto trans, you MUST retain the factory starter relay in order to keep a functioning neutral safety switch.

Frankly, I would like to attempt to discourage you in this. It might seem simple, but much of the problems in these old girls is that they are under fused along with the bulkhead connector problems.

The ignition switches are a minor part and are not really a serious problem.

Removing same removes ALL theft protection you might have.
 
I got a call out for a replacement ignition switch,just waiting to hear back. Thanks for the responce, gives me more to think about.I also like the Jeep relay idea.
 
I recall getting an ignition switch for ~$11 on rockauto for my 64 & 65. It is easy to change since in the dash, not like later cars (in steering column). If your factory plastic connector at the switch is melted, you could use individual spade terminals, though I am sure you could get another connector housing cheap at a junkyard or someone here. If your bulkhead connector is melted, just run wires straight thru the melted terminals. New cars do that (i.e. no connectors). Better is to get a 65 bulkhead since it has dedicated buss lugs for the big ALT and BATT wires. I did that for my 64, but you need to make the square hole 3/8" taller.
 
Thanks Bill, New switch is on its way. Wiring has always been hard for me for some reason,mostly because of my eyesight with or without glasses.I have the factory diagrams and have been going over them.Did the amp meter bypass and went to a volt meter.The gauge cluster was trash when I got the car so using aftermarket gauges and a home made pannel. I always like to ask questions because so many times you guys have good ideas. SO I got one more,, Fuseable link ? I didn't find one in the diagrams for the 64, should I install one ?
 
I would. You should not need so large for the feed, since you bypassed the ammeter

I REALLY like the idea of using the ignition switch, at least on the dark blue, to fire a relay, and run the ignition / charging system, etc off the relay. This relieves strain on the switch.
 
I found a mopar factory replacement fuseable link in my junk so I will use it. It said on the box that it is 14ga.
 
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