In-Line Fuel Filter

Fuel and Air Systems

  1. FASTBACK340

    FASTBACK340 Legandary Member Legendary Member

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    I was going to use a Fram HPG-1 filter until I realized what a huge pain in the a$$ it was going to be. At first I figured I'd mount it behind the right rear tire with the Holley pump, so I made this:

    Picture003-vi.jpg
    I bent and welded some scrap steel we had in the shop. I figured this would sheild the pump & filter from anything being kicked off the tire.
    Picture004-vi.jpg

    But then that damn HPG-1 STILL hangs below the bottom of the quarter panel! So... the Fram filter is off to e-Bay and I'm shopping for an in-line filter, such as the Aeromotive or a BG.

    Any opinions, pro or con? I'm not running insane pressure. Just want a good, quality filter before my pump.
     

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  2. 63dartman

    63dartman Well-Known Member

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    Why not add two 90's and a small section of pipe to raise it up a little?
     
  3. GoodysGotaCuda

    GoodysGotaCuda Mr. Goody

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    cant flip that fram filter on its side or something? mine is. maybe upside-down...can't see why it wouldn't work flow wise. Not as easy to pump through, but shouldn't be any harder than trying to push the fuel back up to the outlet like it is.
     
  4. FASTBACK340

    FASTBACK340 Legandary Member Legendary Member

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    Good thinking, but wouldn't I have too many stress points? It is a BIG assembly. Plus all the bends.... I'd like to have a straight-shot. I'm planning on sumping the tank and running -10 to the filter & pump, then taper it down to -8 for the remainder. I'd rather over-engineer the fuel system that try and up-grade later.


    Anyone running an in-line? :scratch:
     
  5. Mopower71

    Mopower71 Speed Demon

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    Why not flip the pump over?
    They would then be the same height?
     
  6. FASTBACK340

    FASTBACK340 Legandary Member Legendary Member

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    Then it would be running up-side down, which is not recommended by Holley. :sad1:
     
  7. RedFish

    RedFish Well-Known Member

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    two 90 degree street fittings would actually relieve/absorb stress but their throw might seperate the compents beyond the width of your shield.
     
  8. Mopower71

    Mopower71 Speed Demon

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    You could use some steel braided line with two 45 deg fittings to move the filter up even with the top of the pump.
    The braided line won't stress over the vibration like solid fittings and line.
     
  9. NiceFishEh

    NiceFishEh Well-Known Member

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    Could you mount the filter up front somewhere near the bottom of the rad support or below the heater motor somewhere?

    There just isn't a lot of room to spare near the tank area.

    My next in line fuel filter will be that big flat BG type, mounted just past my mech Holley pump.

    Jim
     
  10. Ace

    Ace Guest

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    I put mine up front where the fuel evap cannister used to be. Fits quite nicely there, easy to reach for service. It's basically on the inner fender right behind the pass headlight.

    BTW, the line bends/angles and relative height of any component in a pressurized automotive fuel system is not anything to stress over, especially if you are running a high pressure/regulator setup.
     
  11. 340mopar

    340mopar Sorgermotorsports

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    Woops, that is how mine has been running for three years. The reason Holley doesn't recommend running it with the motor down if because of possible fire from a fuel leak onto the motor.


    Chuck
     
  12. 340mopar

    340mopar Sorgermotorsports

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    He wants to run it before the pump on the suction side.


    Chuck
     
  13. Ace

    Ace Guest

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    Why?
     
  14. Dusterb318

    Dusterb318 Well-Known Member

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    So you have clean filtered fuel going into the pump.....that's the way Mallory recomended me set-up mine....then I have a small inline filter up by the carb.
     
  15. 340mopar

    340mopar Sorgermotorsports

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    I concur, clean fuel to the pump. There is a pressure relief valve in Holley pumps and the finest piece of dirt will make it stick in by-pass, been there before. Plus I like to have clean fuel run thru my whole fuel system. If you are not running a stock pick up with the sock filter all kinds of things can end up in your pump.


    Chuck
     
  16. Ace

    Ace Guest

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    Oh, I missed that part.
     
  17. Dusterb318

    Dusterb318 Well-Known Member

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  18. cuda66273

    cuda66273 Well-Known Member

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    There are a few basic rules when designing a fuel system with an electric pump, I'll give you the basics but if you really want to do it right all the details are discussed in my book.

    http://www.4secondsflat.com/Demon_Tuning_Guide.html

    1. Electric pumps are not suction pumps so they must be gravity fed.
    2. The filter always goes between the source (Cell) and the pump
    3. At each restriction point you must drop the line size, so for example -10 from cell to Filter/Pump, -08 from pump to Regulator, -06 from reg to Carb.
    4. We never run a filter between the pump and the carb with an electric pump.
    5. A relay large enough to carry the voltage draw of the pump should be used and installed as close to the pump as reasonable. Only X-Link wire should be used to supply power to a pump.
    6. Always install a shut off switch in the drivers reach.
    7. Never use so called Teflon Tape, it's not Teflon it's cheap plastic mostly made in China, junk, you might as well use a Glad sandwich baggy. Use Permatex Liquid Teflon pipe sealer, 2oz tube part #14A.
    8. Never use a cast 90* or even a cast 45* they are highly restrictive and will reduce the fuel flow.
    9. Don't believe the HP ratings you read about for some of these low end pumps, they are false and only apply to a motor on a Dyno, in the real world of long fuel lines and G forces they won't feed a stout motor. These ratings and how to test your fuel deliver system are in the book.
    10. Use only FUEL System fittings and hose as approved by NHRA, Hydraulic lines, copper water pipe and brass fittings are not a good idea and you'll end up replacing the system if you want it to work correctly.
    11. Beware of the cheap non-swivel hose ends out there, you'll struggle getting the fittings clocked and end up with twists in the lines which will eventually under heat and pressure wad up and close down the flow.
    12. Routing of the lines is important and correctly run will give you that edge over your competition.....it's in book.
    13. Regulators should never be solid mounted and the shortest lines to carb as possible will yield best results, our kit comes with 7.5" lines.
    14. Just drilling a hole in your stock tank and welding in a fitting is not the right way to do it. A series of baffles that will control the fuel slosh and maintain an ample supply of fuel for the pump is very important. All our tanks come with the correct baffling to do the job, sealed inside and out and the correct delivery and return line fittings to do the job right.

    With all this in mind you can also go to our website and look in the tech section for proper fuel system design drawings for various types of pumps.

    As far as filters go.....the Fram HP-1 will gravity feed about 55 gallons per hour, what the rate on your Holley red? The Chink copy of the HP-1 by ProForm is just that a Chink copy and worthless unless you change the filter element to the Wix replacement, good luck getting it to seal.

    Just another little tech tip....be sure whatever pump you buy is "User Re-Buildable" and kits or parts are readily available. We've gone 100% Aerospace Components pumps, we stock every part in them including motors and we offer a 48 Hour service turn around if you feel you can't or don't want to tackle the job yourself.

    There's lots of products that are too big for your motor and will hurt it's performance from heads, cams and carbs but, fuel is not one of them. A properly plumbed and set up 400 GPH pump will work fine on a 318 where as I doubt that a Holley Blue will feed more than a slightly warmed up 340, we use them only for a NOS enrichment valve, never as a motor supply.

    Mechanical HV pump are a whole new discussion.....
     
  19. redfastback

    redfastback Don't ask me... my garage is empty

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    i pulled out my fram hpg-1 filter and replaced it with a small earls filter that unscrews and has a cleanable element.
     
  20. rumblefish360

    rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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    Giggle, something about metal lines cracking? Short service life and fire hazzards?
     
  21. Thrashard340

    Thrashard340 Well-Known Member

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    No need to get derogatory Don. I'm glad you spoke up to defend yourself on the ignition topic and I always listen to what you have to say. I use your parts, have been very happy with them and will most likely continue to purchase your products in the future. When I spoke with you on the phone, you seemed like a nice guy. Chinese people drive Mopars too (ME)...as do African-Americans, Hispanics, etc. I am aware that "most" Chinese-made products are cheap copies and stay away from them myself. But I also know that "American" service and quality is lacking also.

    Case in point, I purchased a set of subframe connectors from Mancini Racing. They don't fit in any capacity. They are too long and the rear brackets are too narrow. I think they are for the longer wheelbase A-body even though I was very specific that I needed the short wheelbase version for my Duster. But it doesn't account for the lack of quality on the rear brackets. I purchased from Mancini because the overall consensus from multiple forums was that they were very reliable. Unfortunately, I am out of the 10 day RMA window (My own fault because I didn't check the fit right away when I received them...I don't get a lot of free time to work on the car).

    Point is, we all have probably experienced some sort of degradation, mistrust or harm from a member of another ethic group. When it comes to Mopars, there shouldn't be any animosity between them. We are all committed to the same goal. Sorry for the rant. But the quote did bother me.

    BTW...I did buy the hardcopy version of your book. :mrgreen:

    -STAN
     
  22. FASTBACK340

    FASTBACK340 Legandary Member Legendary Member

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    Wow, thanks for the reply! Out of all the tips you offered I think my only weak point must just be the pump itself! I have a slightly warmed-over 360 w/ Edlebrock heads, .488/.491 cam, TTI's, MSD ignition , 6 Bbl. and a Holley RED pump.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The copper drain plug is temporary. I didn't want to leave it open. I plan on -8 to the filter & pump, then -6 to the carbs. I have a pair of 12 gauge wires run to the pump area for the relay, and everything is new. It's going to be a street cruiser with occasional trips to Englishtown for some bracket racing.

    Any suggestions? Thanks!
     
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