info on some piston rings

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earthmover

earthmover

in the tire smoke
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a freind gave me a part # for some rings what do you guys think of them???

seal power ZWR935735

1/16 1/16 3/16 file fit

moly

any thoughts on this ringsor comments before I buy some..seem be be a hell of a price....
 
nobody can tell me anything about this rings come on guys
 
What do you want to know? You already know what the rings are by the info you posted. If you want to know the suitability for an application we would need a lot more info on what you plan to put them in and its intended usage.
 
I plan to put them in a 30 340 should be about 11.1 and a mild soild cam for street use just want to get some help from the more exp. guys that know about things like this..thanks
 
Personally I wouldn't use a 1/16 ring pack on a street engine, that's a low drag setup for a race engine. I'd use a 5/64 moly ring with a medium tension oil scraper. Of course you would need pistons that fit that size ring as well.
 
hi, 1/16 rings will work just fine. the newer motors use narrower rings than that. currently 1.2 mm and 1.5 mm is used in most motors. your ring set is not too light. besides, to install 5/64, have to remachine ring lands or buy stock pistons! your cylinder walls will love them. theres horsepower in lower radial tension rings. just food for thought.
 
Its a low tension set. Not a good street ring. The 1/16 ring stack is fine for a stree car. But the low tension oil rings need a vacuum pump to work well, and dont work that well at idle or high vacuum situations.
 
perfacar said:
hi, 1/16 rings will work just fine. the newer motors use narrower rings than that. currently 1.2 mm and 1.5 mm is used in most motors. your ring set is not too light. besides, to install 5/64, have to remachine ring lands or buy stock pistons! your cylinder walls will love them. theres horsepower in lower radial tension rings. just food for thought.
Click to expand...


Most pistons, even aftermarket pistons are not machined for 1/16 rings. Yes newer cars do use thinner rings but the engines are designed for that. They also move the top ring up to reduce emissions. Less area between the top of the piston and the top ring reduces the dirty area where fuel may not be completely burned.

A thinner ring also reduces heat transfer to the cylinder wall and thus the cooling system. Desirable for emissions but not necessarily what you'd want for a hot street engine, especially where detonation may be a concern.
 
so I need a standerd ten ring set for my motor right.....new pistons are out so no need for that thought...thanks
 
So what pistons do you have? Are they machined for a 1/16 or a 5/64 ring? Either way your options are pretty much limited then.
 
Then you'll need moly 1/16 top and 2nd with medium tension oil rings. Have the machine shop hone your block with a torque plate for the moly rings and you'll be good.
 
Never heard of medium tension rings... but I dont use anything but std ones in my stuff...lol
 
You can get whatever you want but medium tension is a standard tension moly ring. You can of course do what I do and that is to use an oil ring expander from a set about .030 smaller than your bore size. 12 lbs of drag to pull a piston up the cylinder is what you are looking for. Lot's of horsepower in reducing ring drag.
 
Interesting. Could you expand on that idea? I use the performance plasma-moly file-to-fit sets that include std tension oil rings. The "moly ring" is the top ring only in the stack and for the 1st and 2nd rings the friction is controlled by the ring width.... As far as I knew, the only difference in the low and std tension oil rings are the expanders?
 
Yep pretty much. You'll have to excuse me if I don't explain this well, I've been taking some pretty strong pain meds for the past 4 days.

Have you ever checked ring drag? We do it with a small fish scale. Assemble your piston and rod with just the oil ring on the piston. Install the piston into the bore upside down, don't use any oil on it, push it down to near the bottom and hook the fish scale to the rod and pull it up. Read the pounds it takes to pull the assembly up the bore. You'd be surprised some take as much as 45 pounds to pull through. You can reduce the size of the expander by either cutting it down or using a smaller bore size expander. I do my race engines at 12 to 15 pounds. I've gone as low as 10 but that may be too low. Street engines I set at about 20 to 25.

You can also reduce the drag of the rest of the stack by back cutting the second ring to relieve radial tension. I've seen some guys just leave the second ring out because it's really not doing anything especially in a race engine, it's just along for the ride. But stockers have to have all the rings in there so we are essentially just filling the space with a ring that doesn't impart any extra drag. I wouldn't do this on a street engine though and it may not be advisable for a bracket race engine either where you are looking for long term durability. But if you don't mind taking it down and putting in a new top ring every 300 - 500 passes or so it will really make some horsepower.
 
interesting deal. Never thaought of it...lol. But again, I do street engines. So those prob wouldnt be too good for them..lol.
 
You know some guys see these 340 stockers running 10's and think certainly I can do that with a 360 cube motor, But it's much more than that. NHRA gives you blueprint specs, like the crank stroke is 3.31 +/- .015. Now I don't know about you but I'm not spending the money to have my bracket motors crank indexed and stroked to +.014. I would just throw a 4" stroke crank in there. They give you port volumes for the cylinder heads in cc's. Most heads are well below this limit so what do the stocker guys do? They spend a bunch of money to have the ports opened up to the limit (or just under) and then have the ports acid etched, splatter welded and shot peened to make them look like as cast ports. There is nothing left untouched on a good running stocker, everything is examined under a microscope and massaged to the maximum or minimum allowed to gain every and any advantage possible. All those little improvements add up to big gains.

I've learned plenty of other tricks but I don't do most of them to my bracket cars because it's just not worth the effort on them when I can just stick in a bigger cam and get the same results.
 
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