Inner fender removal for weight reduction?

-

66Valiant528

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2019
Messages
1,163
Reaction score
928
Location
Medway Ma
So the car needs to go on a diet. More glass parts. Presently the car has J bars from the firewall and connecting bars under the dash to the A pillar bars . Is the
structural integrity of the unibody weekend significantly enough that additional bars need to be added maybe negating the weight loss gained by removing the inner fenders? What happens under the hood now that the inner fenders are gone? This is strictly a drag car. Already have fenderwell headers so the back is open. 66 Valiant. Who has run no inner fenders? My car is presently at 135mph. It was skating earlier at 120 then after some QA1 uppers and a good alignment it goes and stops straight. How does no inner fenders effect the car at speed? Not sure what the pros and cons are . Looking for some experienced feedback.
 
That is what we were thinking remove the rest of the fender wells. Cut weight. One thing led to another and we put a straight axle in it. We didn't like the height so we bought a 6 inch drop axle. Its a lot lighter now. Vega steering box. Bought everything through speedway motors.

100_0051 (2).JPG


100_0029.JPG


100_0032.JPG


100_0033.JPG


100_0034 (2).JPG


100_0035.JPG


100_0036 (2).JPG


100_0037.JPG


100_0038 (2).JPG
 
Current suspension is stock other than QA1 uppers, DA Viking shocks and RMS strut rods. 73 A body spindles. Rear is Calvert split mono DA Vikings S60 Wilwood rear disc.
 
So you cut out sheet metal unibody which adds strength to save weight, then you weld in tubing to get the strength back, which one is heavier?
 
When you cut the fender wells out, and realize you can hold the whole peice in one hand outstretched, you will conclude it's a waste. The roll bars needed to put the strength back are heavier than what you cut out
 
This is my novice opinion if your car is a dedicated race car already at 135mph then you would need a thought out full cage anyway. So cut out those fenders not for weight savings but for efficiency on wrenching on the motor. Instead of J-bars have the cage extend through the fire wall.

Not sure whose car this is grabbed off the internet but it paints a picture of the room you have and actually with the straight axle you have even more with the removal of the shock tower. Very lean and easy to work. It’s no fun racing with cramped engine compartments.
IMG_5013.jpeg
 
Last edited:
This is mine. I have bars that come from the cage that butt up behind the shock tower and sit on the frame rail. They are welded to the frame rail and the tower. The inner fenders were already cut out of my car when I bought it. Kim

IMG_0304.jpeg


IMG_0303.jpeg


IMG_0302.jpeg


IMG_0305.jpeg


IMG_0306.jpeg


IMG_0363.jpeg


IMG_0364.jpeg
 
You need aprons(inner fenders) or solid structural support(j bars?)to fire wall or better yet to a full cage. Since you compromised the structural integrity of the apron’s with holes for fenderwell headers, the only choice now is obvious. All you are doing to lose weight by compromising structural integrity is actually slowing your car down and to say the least making it dangerous and unsafe. It won’t be long before you fatigue what’s left of your car.

Want to go faster? More horsepower and a reinforced chassis and full cage and more weight.
 
Sorry, 8.5 chassis certified, sub frame connectors motor plate and 8 pt cage plus the J bars.. only thing is J bars are 2 piece. A pillar to firewall plate. Plate to front frame rails. If I cut out the aprons I would make solid bars from A pillars to frame rails.
 
The inner fender on Chrys A bodies is a structural member & acts as a brace/support for the K member....which takes the engine & suspension weight. I would not remove it.
 
-
Back
Top