cawcislo
Well-Known Member
Is this inout shaft usable? Or replace.
Input shaft - life left or replace?
- Thread starter cawcislo
- Start date
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I would replace it. Comparing the pictures I would say yours has seen better days. Looks like a 247 70-74 trans.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
cawcislo
Well-Known Member
Looks like I have a new clutch centering tool.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
That's high gear.
If it were for my own vehicle, I'd likely sharpen the points and try it, prob be okay. Replacement is fairly easy .
I seldom speed/power shift into high gear .
jmo
If it were for my own vehicle, I'd likely sharpen the points and try it, prob be okay. Replacement is fairly easy .
I seldom speed/power shift into high gear .
jmo
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
You might get away with it... But teeth like that not only effect the shift into high gear but also can cause it to pop out of gear.... It's available, in the past availability was always a problem... If you are strapped for cash patch it, if you aren't a starving car guy replace it...
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Availability is keyword on that particular choice gear.
I've had to spray weld the brg surface and dress teeth as shown, to make a trans serviceable, cuz of no availability.
Glad it's avail .
Never had a Mopar trans pop outta gear.
Cheers .
Last edited:
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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The only input shaft, since 1970, that I have ever replaced had all the teeth ripped off it.................. by me, lol.
I can make those clutch-teeth, in the pic, fully operational in under 5 minutes. But fixing the slider takes a lil longer, and the brass ring will need a new home.
I rarely replace the brass rings, I just shuffle them around to new locations, until they just sit too low on the brake-cones. However, on the input gear, the brass usually sits quite far away from the slider, and if allowed to wear out, it will eventually decouple from the struts, and spin, which will make catching fourth gear a real challenge, lol.
So then, during a rebuild, I try to always give the highest sitting brass to the input.
But for a streeter it hardly matters cuz going into fourth with 3.55s is like over 90mph. Which if Smokey catches me, means I would automatically lose my Driving privileges.
BTW-1,
having rebuilt hundreds of those transmissions, I can tell you that the degree of pointiness, with a good-working brass-ring, hardly makes a difference.
However, once a slider tends to kick into neutral, under power, it's game over, the trans has to come down; and all all of the teeth will need to be back-cut on the power side.
But, if it kicks out under deceleration, there are usually no more than two sets of four of them involved in kicking out; so those eight will need to be back-cut.
Exactly which teeth will need to be cut, will be evidenced.
I do this with a hand-held electric die-grinder like a "dremel" but with a longer nose on it that is able to operate at a better and deeper angle. I use a tiny cut-off-type wheel, about 1inch in diameter, if you want to try it.
No, I do not use an air-die grinder, which are too difficult to maintain speed with, at anything but WOT, so half the time is spent, waiting for the grinder to come back up to speed.....................................................
Actually, it's more about personal preference, lol.
BTW-2
you may need to keep after your free-play adjustment more often, as this damage occurs when the brass cannot do it's job anymore, usually because the stinking disc won't stop spinning, usually caused by a lack of departure.......
but could be a bent disc, or a release finger out of adjustment, neither of which is common. Or, if you have short legs, lol, and just don't push far enough, jussaying.
I can make those clutch-teeth, in the pic, fully operational in under 5 minutes. But fixing the slider takes a lil longer, and the brass ring will need a new home.
I rarely replace the brass rings, I just shuffle them around to new locations, until they just sit too low on the brake-cones. However, on the input gear, the brass usually sits quite far away from the slider, and if allowed to wear out, it will eventually decouple from the struts, and spin, which will make catching fourth gear a real challenge, lol.
So then, during a rebuild, I try to always give the highest sitting brass to the input.
But for a streeter it hardly matters cuz going into fourth with 3.55s is like over 90mph. Which if Smokey catches me, means I would automatically lose my Driving privileges.
BTW-1,
having rebuilt hundreds of those transmissions, I can tell you that the degree of pointiness, with a good-working brass-ring, hardly makes a difference.
However, once a slider tends to kick into neutral, under power, it's game over, the trans has to come down; and all all of the teeth will need to be back-cut on the power side.
But, if it kicks out under deceleration, there are usually no more than two sets of four of them involved in kicking out; so those eight will need to be back-cut.
Exactly which teeth will need to be cut, will be evidenced.
I do this with a hand-held electric die-grinder like a "dremel" but with a longer nose on it that is able to operate at a better and deeper angle. I use a tiny cut-off-type wheel, about 1inch in diameter, if you want to try it.
No, I do not use an air-die grinder, which are too difficult to maintain speed with, at anything but WOT, so half the time is spent, waiting for the grinder to come back up to speed.....................................................
Actually, it's more about personal preference, lol.
BTW-2
you may need to keep after your free-play adjustment more often, as this damage occurs when the brass cannot do it's job anymore, usually because the stinking disc won't stop spinning, usually caused by a lack of departure.......
but could be a bent disc, or a release finger out of adjustment, neither of which is common. Or, if you have short legs, lol, and just don't push far enough, jussaying.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
If you notice, you can turn the slider sleeve 3? teeth on the inner hub, the keys/locks/struts will be sliding on new surfaces inside the sleeve .
I used to juggle high gear syncro to 2nd, as hi was less "stressed".
I used to juggle high gear syncro to 2nd, as hi was less "stressed".
Last edited:
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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I used to put the highest-sitting brass on Second, cuz I always wore that one out first, lol. First gear gets the lowest-sitting cuz the rpm differential is only whatever your idle-speed is, say 750 rpm, and I don't like first gear to work too good, as it just makes engaging it more difficult. Whereas at 7000 rpm, the rpm differential averages 2000ish rpm, so the brass is really gonna have to be tip-top to get the job done in a reasonable period of time.
I finally gave up waiting, and slick-shifted second and third. Now the trans, at WOT, doesn't even know the brass is still in there, the sliders just overpower them as fast as I can throw my short-stick. Yet when granny-shifting, there they are, good lil soldier-boys that they are.
As to the slider-hubs, yeah sometimes with higher mileage units, the splines have to be back-cut as well, and the sharp edges knocked off; and if the struts have left tracks, or are baggy, then it's time to retire the hubs.
But, if you recall, I have a GVod being used as a splitter, so some of the time, at WOT, I don't even shift into second cuz, First-over hits 60@6400; 7000 will get me ~68mph
and I rarely even get into third gear, cuz 6200 in Second-over is around 93 mph, which is what my car does in the Eighth, lol.
So I don't feel the need to go any faster, lol.
BTW
Some of the later overdrives had the hubs cast in a different configuration and it is not possible for them to be rotated relative to the sliders as there are no adjacent detents for the struts to engage. So then, those can only be assembled in one specific way, namely, with the struts engaging the detents..
I finally gave up waiting, and slick-shifted second and third. Now the trans, at WOT, doesn't even know the brass is still in there, the sliders just overpower them as fast as I can throw my short-stick. Yet when granny-shifting, there they are, good lil soldier-boys that they are.
As to the slider-hubs, yeah sometimes with higher mileage units, the splines have to be back-cut as well, and the sharp edges knocked off; and if the struts have left tracks, or are baggy, then it's time to retire the hubs.
But, if you recall, I have a GVod being used as a splitter, so some of the time, at WOT, I don't even shift into second cuz, First-over hits 60@6400; 7000 will get me ~68mph
and I rarely even get into third gear, cuz 6200 in Second-over is around 93 mph, which is what my car does in the Eighth, lol.
So I don't feel the need to go any faster, lol.
BTW
Some of the later overdrives had the hubs cast in a different configuration and it is not possible for them to be rotated relative to the sliders as there are no adjacent detents for the struts to engage. So then, those can only be assembled in one specific way, namely, with the struts engaging the detents..
Last edited:
Inertia
Well-Known Member
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