Installed new valve stem seals

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Flatlander

Flatlander

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Arrrgh.......what an oily mess..........Ooooh my back!!

Needed it though, suckers were hard as rocks. Now no more oil burn.8)
 
Do you want to come to North Carolina and do mine, now that you know how.
 
How much oil were you using? I don't think I have any exhaust seals in my 273, seems I burn a quart of oil in 500 miles.
 
HAHA lucky you....I had a 99 dodge ram with a 360 and I think it had a mix of bad valve seals and bad rings but I was going through 3 quarts in about 50 miles.....you read right, it was pretty bad lol.

I sold the truck, such a shame....I should have just tore the engine out and spiffed it up.....it was a ram sport reg cab short bed 4x4 that was viper blue with white stripes ,lifted up on 33's...like a brand new truck in and out but it LOVED its oil.

Glad to hear you got yours all fixed up! I jsut did seals on my engine (heads off though) it takes its toll on the back doing it in chassis!
 
I can't do much to mine because of a workmens comp injury 2 years ago. Its not on the road just sitting waiting on me to come out and play with her. When I do start it after sitting awhite she runs really smooth for about 30 minutes or so. Then she starts missing and if I pull the plugs the ones toward the center of the engine have oil on them. The others have no oil so I think thats my problem. Its a /6 showing 57000 miles but sit for a long time.
Any ideas if I'm barking up the right tree?
I may just have her pulled to a garage so I can get something started as far as completion. If workmens comp ever settles with me I can do a lot on my own, but can't take any chances geting caught till then. They pay me to well to mess up.
thanks for any advice
 
The push-on seals go over the valve guides on the intakes only. That prevents oil from being sucked down the guide on the intake stroke. the exhaust doesn't really need them, and the oil dripping into the exhaust guide can only help lubricate it. If you do put exh. valve seals, you use the dish shaped umbrella seals that move with the valve.
 
How did you do this? I think i may need to do it. When we got back from our drive last weekend i checked the oil and it was a quart low, WTF.

It does have a main seal or a oil switch leak, but not that bad. There is no oil slick on the bottom of the car or anything.

It doesnt smoke on startup usually or smoke going down the road, but depending on conditions and re-starts after a short drive it will blow a bit of smoke.
 
64_Barracuda said:
How much oil were you using? I don't think I have any exhaust seals in my 273, seems I burn a quart of oil in 500 miles.
Click to expand...


I was using about the same.

I've a friend who owns a machine shop who loaned me the spring compressor (NAPA carries them too for 30 bucks) and a fitting to screw into the spark plug hole to attack my air hose so the valves don't drop. First thing I did was remove rockers and shaft. Second, I used a punch and hammer to just tap the washer on top of each valve spring to make sure it will seperate easily from the retainer clips. Third, attach air hose to cylinder, turn on air and keep it on. Forth, plug oil passages with rags to keep clips from falling into block. Fifth, compress springs so you can easily push down and remove clips and washer then lift off spring. Six, remove old seals and place on new ones. Seven, do 1-5 in reverse.

While doing it I used new clips........intake valve has two ridges and exhaust has three. Also did seals on both intake and exhaust valves. It's also handy to have a pair of angled needle nose pliers and a magnet. Ibuprofen if your doing it in the chassis and are over 45.

I'm sure I missed something but there it be for me.:-D


obtw, reset valve lash.
 
I did the seals on my son's /6 tonight. It didnt pass emissions on Friday, so rebuilt carb yesterday and valve-stem seals today.

To solve the Back Breaking, I jacked the car up about a foot or so, so I didnt have to bend so far to get to them. Little trick, always bring it up to comfortable level.
 
Thinking about doing on my /6 too. Is the rocker shaft a single unit, torqued down like on big block v8s or does each individual valve need to be then reset?
 
I just got some 3/8 Crower viton valve seals at the swap meet and the guy said that I needed an installer to get them on. I saw some 5/16 hemi seals and those came with a little plastic tool that fit over the seal and pushed them on. He also said the guides had to me machined for the seals too, of course this was told to me AFTER I bought them, but they were only 5 bucks. Can I just push them on? I believe the old X heads are already machined for these style seals, a very small width guide as compared to my 86 360 heads that had thick guides, umbrella seals and some huge black plastic cap looking seals that were petrified.
 
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