Intake/Exhaust Gasket Help

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carfreak6970

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So a little back story:

My exhaust manifold was leaking around the heat riser so I ended up finding what I thought was a NOS exhaust manifold (picked it up at a Dodge dealership that lost its franchise) and installed that back in march of this year. There was a 73 cast into it which leads me to believe it is a 73 exhaust manifold. The choke mounting area is not inside the flow path of the exhaust.

I only put on about 1300 miles since then. With in that 1300 miles I retorqued the intake/exhaust to head nuts to 10 ft-lb (well used an inch-lb wrench at 120 in-lbs, like the service manual says and the other bolts and nuts associated with the exhaust) 3 times. However last Tuesday I was out driving around and it started to develop this horrible exhaust leak, so I figured those nuts worked themselves lose again. I didnt get a chance to address it until last night. I retorqued the head to intake/exhaust nuts, intake to exhaust nuts and the exhaust flange. I tried to take it to work this morning and the exhaust leak is still there. I open the hood and see that the number 1 cylinder exhaust runner had a black carbon mark from an exhaust leak and the number 6 cylinder exhaust runner was blowing exhaust out (felt by my hand).

So it would appear I blew my exhaust/intake gasket... lovely. So my questions presented to everyone here:

What do you use to secure your intake and exhaust manifolds to the head? I still use those factory wing washers with just regular stainless steel nuts threaded on to studs. I have a feeling that the heat cycles are the cause for the nuts working themselves loose. I also find having to retorque these nuts more than once within 1300 miles on factory components to be excessive. So is there any fastening method that would prevent the intake/exhaust nuts working themselves lose under the heat and cool cycles?

What intake/exhaust gasket would be the best for reliability on a stock engine using OEM parts?


And for more information: it has been pretty hot here in Pittsburgh the past week or so. its been in the high 80's to the low 90's with some decent humidity. I have a 160 degree thermostat installed and the temperature gauge indicates that the water temp doesnt go above 180-190. Which is higher than I would like it to but definitely not in the danger zone. As long as I dont get stuck in traffic the temp stays around 160-170 in motion during these high heat days.
 
Remflex. Always only ever Remflex. It is very much worth your while to get them and use them. Hardware and installation technique, see here and here.

The pre-'73 chokes do not work correctly when installed on the '73-up manifolds. Get one of the Electric choke kits, it'll make your life a lot easier.

160° thermostat is too cold; you're wasting gasoline and crapping up the engine oil with it. Put back the correct 180° unit—read this.
 
Now that you mention the thermostat I do believe I am wrong in labeling mine at 160... But yes I know the choke from the pre -73 manifolds wont work on what I have now. I was actually waiting after Chryslers at Carlisle to get that choke kit.

Thank you for the insightful information slantsixdan (again). Always appreciated. I hope that this was just an expanding gasket issue and not because the manifold was warped, I will find that out when I disassemble it.
 
I must be incredibly lucky to have a Napa felpro gasket still working great after a year on mine. But.....I have to take the damn manifolds off again this winter to replace the block heater with a freeze plug. I just happen to have new studs too. ..perhaps a good time to use a remflex.

I did use a remflex to stop the manifold heat door to intake leak though. It worked a treat.
 
IMHO, the most important step is to match / surface the manifolds after they're bolted together. I was replacing gaskets every few months until I did mine. Was still holding with no leaks years later until I swapped in the v8
 
Follow Dan's advice and do it once.
Slightly warped intake or exhaust be damned, as the Remflex gaskets won't even struggle to seal up and stay that way.
They are guaranteed not to leak and no retightening EVER.
I have run them with headers for 3 years and then when I changed motors to a magnum I used the old gaskets again with the same great results.

They have a lot of crush to them so uneven surfaces don't really matter at all.
 
I would suspect you exhaust manifold has warped due to heat cycling and is just stress relieved and moved. So having the flange ground flat again would be a good idea, IMHO. And if your stainless nuts are staying good and loose, maybe they are just back off. Try regular steel nuts with anti-seize made for heat, or brass.

And yes on the 160 t'stat beling low; the front cylinders on inline 6's tend to run cold and the #1 bores will wear more than the rest, and the lower temp t'stat is just causing more cylinder bore wear, amongst other things.
 
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