Intake (heat shield) and metal gaskets?

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Bronze Barracuda

Bronze Barracuda

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I just got back from a local u blast place to clean up some parts one of which was this cast iron intake.
I know some media got in behind the shield, I suppose I could pry one end open and blast the other side with air, but I'd still be worried about some sand/glass that may still be under it. If I grind off those rivets will I be able to refasten it somehow? I think it's only purpose is a heat shield, idk for sure though. Also thinking of using the metal gaskets, the heads were milled just to straighten them up not exactly sure how much though. The machine shop said there shouldn't be an issue. But I figure the thinner metal ones would be a better choice for fitment.

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I've been able to remove and reuse those rivets. I use a real sharp small chisel to drive under the head of the rivet and work it up and out. The rivet is splined and the splines are slightly curved, so, the rivet comes out with a slight twist to it. Use some locktite to re-install it.
 
A small chisel as stated and twist out with vice grips. Counter clock wise if I remember correctly.
 
Get that thing off of there and clean the hell out of it.

Get under the rivet with a small chisel but it can’t have a sharp end. If it does you’ll knock the head off of it.

Gently tap in the chisel with a small hammer. Not some 32 ounce framing hammer but an 8 ounce ball peen hammer works nicely.

Once you get under the head and get it away from the manifold, you can grab it with vise grips and wiggle it back and forth to get it out.

If you are careful you can use the chisel and get it all the way out.

If you bend the rivet a bit it won’t matter. Just don’t knock the head off of it and leave the stem in there.

Once that plate is off get it clean. Any crap left in there will come out and jack your new engine right up. So get it clean.

Sometimes you get lucky and you can tap the rivets right back in and they will still have some press fit. I use either stud and bearing mount locktite or the red stuff.

If you don’t have enough press fit on the rivet, take a small, dull pointed punch and about an 1/8 inch from the hole put a nice punch mark.

Then do it three more times at about 90 degrees. That will put some press back on the rivet so with that and the locktite it will never come out.

But you damn sure need to get it off and clean it up.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Get that thing off of there and clean the hell out of it.

Get under the rivet with a small chisel but it can’t have a sharp end. If it does you’ll knock the head off of it.

Gently tap in the chisel with a small hammer. Not some 32 ounce framing hammer but an 8 ounce ball peen hammer works nicely.

Once you get under the head and get it away from the manifold, you can grab it with vise grips and wiggle it back and forth to get it out.

If you are careful you can use the chisel and get it all the way out.

If you bend the rivet a bit it won’t matter. Just don’t knock the head off of it and leave the stem in there.

Once that plate is off get it clean. Any crap left in there will come out and jack your new engine right up. So get it clean.

Sometimes you get lucky and you can tap the rivets right back in and they will still have some press fit. I use either stud and bearing mount locktite or the red stuff.

If you don’t have enough press fit on the rivet, take a small, dull pointed punch and about an 1/8 inch from the hole put a nice punch mark.

Then do it three more times at about 90 degrees. That will put some press back on the rivet so with that and the locktite it will never come out.

But you damn sure need to get it off and clean it up.
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I think I have a valley pan kicking around somewhere. If I do break the rivets could I just leave it off and use the valley pan instead of the manifold shield?
 
Bronze Barracuda said:
I think I have a valley pan kicking around somewhere. If I do break the rivets could I just leave it off and use the valley pan instead of the manifold shield?
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Not sure about that so I don’t know. That area where the exhaust crosses over gets extremely hot. I mean real hot.

Any oil that hits it when it’s hot Coke’s off.

If you are even half careful you should be able to get them out. 99% of the time it’s pretty easy.

I have had a couple of times where I broke one off or the hole was so blown out no amount of peening would tighten up the hole and I would find another spot on the casting that would take a rivet and drill it there and put the rivet in.

You can get those rivets from Goodson IIRC or similar sources.

I think you’ll do just fine getting them out.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Not sure about that so I don’t know. That area where the exhaust crosses over gets extremely hot. I mean real hot.

Any oil that hits it when it’s hot Coke’s off.

If you are even half careful you should be able to get them out. 99% of the time it’s pretty easy.

I have had a couple of times where I broke one off or the hole was so blown out no amount of peening would tighten up the hole and I would find another spot on the casting that would take a rivet and drill it there and put the rivet in.

You can get those rivets from Goodson IIRC or similar sources.

I think you’ll do just fine getting them out.
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If I block the crossovers and use an electric choke would I need the pan still?

edit; but I'm going to try and get those rivets out as you guys mentioned above we'll see how it goes.
 
Bronze Barracuda said:
If I block the crossovers and use an electric choke would I need the pan still?
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I’d be real careful blocking the heat off for any reason.

I say that because todays fuel does not vaporize worth a crap and without the heat from the crossover you’ll need to make a bunch of tuning and carb changes.

I’d try to get the rivets out first and if they don’t come out then look at your options.

BTW, it looks like there is only one rivet. That makes it all the easier.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I’d be real careful blocking the heat off for any reason.

I say that because todays fuel does not vaporize worth a crap and without the heat from the crossover you’ll need to make a bunch of tuning and carb changes.

I’d try to get the rivets out first and if they don’t come out then look at your options.

BTW, it looks like there is only one rivet. That makes it all the easier.
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No there's two the other one near the bottom of the picture just blends in well with the pitted areas.
 
Most guys who tune for performance and have any sense at all, tune their engines to run as cool as possible anyway, so if it was mine, I'd just take it off and find the nearest trash can. It's funny you never see shields on new aluminum intakes. I know, "they're aluminum, blah blah, blah". Hot oil still gets on the bottom of the intake. As you mentioned, I'd block off the exhaust crossover. But as hooha said, you're gonna have to make some tuning changes. They'll all be for the better anyway. Anything that introduces heat to the incoming air fuel charge does nothing beneficial for any kind of performance engine, whether it's mild, wild, or anything in between. I've heard it argued that those shields collect and hold hot oil against the bottom of the intake, instead of allowing it to just drain off. It's something to ponder on. I know what I'd do. I'd ponder that beeotch right into the trash can.
 
Well thanks to all for the advice on how to remove the heat shield from this cast iron intake.
Short story it worked only took about 3 minutes
But holy cow, (moo) sure I took the intake to a local u-blast shop but what I found under there was definitely not just sand blasting grit. In fact the majority of what was under there was from years of accumulation of crud and what not!
After seeing this I would highly recommend that you always remove that heat shield if you're putting an old factory intake onto a newly rebuilt or even freshened up block. What a bunch of crap under there just waiting to ruin a nice drive on a weekend.
Thanks again for the advice/help.
Rivets in last picture, in case anyone in the future wants to know what they look like.
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Syleng1 said:
A small chisel as stated and twist out with vice grips. Counter clock wise if I remember correctly.
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Funny thing; you'd be surprised how few young kids nowadays know what clockwise and counterclockwise is. I have been watching some YouTube videos lately where a young kid (24ish) goes around on college campuses asking students BASIC questions like how many minutes in a quarter of an hour? (most common answer is 25), What is 3x3x3? (most common answer is 9), Name 3 countries other than the United States (they usually mention continents), and my favorite is what country is the Panama Canal in (most common answer is Mexico). Duh!
 
harrisonm said:
Funny thing; you'd be surprised how few young kids nowadays know what clockwise and counterclockwise is. I have been watching some YouTube videos lately where a young kid (24ish) goes around on college campuses asking students BASIC questions like how many minutes in a quarter of an hour? (most common answer is 25), What is 3x3x3? (most common answer is 9), Name 3 countries other than the United States (they usually mention continents), and my favorite is what country is the Panama Canal in (most common answer is Mexico). Duh!
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lol, it was counter clockwise. You remembered correctly. :)
 
thanks for bringing this up, am beginning work on same thing, i have a valley tray already so i'm good to go!
 
I removed it and bought 1/8” phenolic sheet. The sheet rests on the china walls and takes the place on the cork gaskets. RTV both sides on the china walks.

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where can i buy those rivets ?
does anyone have a vendor and a part number?
thanks...rich
 
mad dog said:
where can i buy those rivets ?
does anyone have a vendor and a part number?
thanks...rich
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Apparently you can reuse them. It seems like they can be driven back in with a good blow from a hammer. Maybe use a little JB weld but that'd be a permanent thing might not be able to remove them again. Or maybe just a little thread locker the orange, it's removable.
Unless you lost yours or they were destroyed while removing. Possibly a fastener company might have them?
 
mad dog said:
where can i buy those rivets ?
does anyone have a vendor and a part number?
thanks...rich
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You might want to contact someone like Mega Parts. If they don't have them they might know who does.
 
They are twist rivets. If they get messed up, you can drill and tap them and use a 1/4" bolt too. Maybe locktite them in, or safety wire.
 
AMK has them. They are listed as SB Ford intake baffle, part number B-10760, 6 pcs for 3.00. I think these are the right size-1/4 x 3/8 L .44 OD. This is from an older AMK catalog, they might have them listed for the SB Mopar by now.
 
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