intake manifolds

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thestover

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I just had my original 340 rebuilt for my 69 swinger.Its 30 over with forged pistons new eagle rods,comp cam with 460/470 lift, original X heads redone,balanced all new arp bolts.I have the original exhaust manifolds and have an ld 340 intake.727 auto reworked with shiftkit. If I was going to put on a new intake what is the best one for a basically stock engine. I was told the ld 340 is old technology, and am considering either a edelbrock performer or air gap?Am I wasting my money or will I notice a difference. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Wasting $, dont think you'd notice the difference for the 200 or so $. An Edelbrock Performer is basically for 318's, the Performer RPM has the larger ports for the 360. The AirGap is a fine piece, but I wouldnt dump the LD for it.
 
Not to hi-jack this but whats an LD340 worth?

Don @ FBO recomended a Performer RPM for the 360 he built me so my LD340 is collecting dust. Its had a long life I had to repair every hole on it by drilling it out and putting in metal inserts -not helicoles- And someone notched the center divider and decided to make it also fit a spread bore.
 
I would go with the Edelbrock Air Gap or the Mopar Performance M1.More punch than the factory ever produced. :thumbup:

Top that off with a 750 cfm Edelbrock/Holley.Depending on what carb you like.
 
The LD340 is absolute junk and you need to box it up and send it to me so I can properly dispose of it.

According to everyone I've spoken with, from Barton, to Ede techs that know the LD from years gone by, to my own experience... If you have an LD 340, save your money and don't buy an Air Gap. The difference in performance is about zilch. Sometimes old tech is just about as good as new tech.

Don't touch the Performer unless it's the RPM one. You're better off with a cast iron 70 340 intake than a standard performer.

If you still want to switch out manifolds, please let me know. I'm looking for an LD340 for a Duster 340 car.

Thanks
 
crackedback said:
The LD340 is absolute junk and you need to box it up and send it to me so I can properly dispose of it.

According to everyone I've spoken with, from Barton, to Ede techs that know the LD from years gone by, to my own experience... If you have an LD 340, save your money and don't buy an Air Gap. The difference in performance is about zilch. Sometimes old tech is just about as good as new tech.

Don't touch the Performer unless it's the RPM one. You're better off with a cast iron 70 340 intake than a standard performer.

If you still want to switch out manifolds, please let me know. I'm looking for an LD340 for a Duster 340 car.

Thanks
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If I'm closer, I can toss it for you too! Everything stated here is dead on.
 
crackedback said:
The LD340 is absolute junk and you need to box it up and send it to me so I can properly dispose of it.

According to everyone I've spoken with, from Barton, to Ede techs that know the LD from years gone by, to my own experience... If you have an LD 340, save your money and don't buy an Air Gap. The difference in performance is about zilch. Sometimes old tech is just about as good as new tech.

Don't touch the Performer unless it's the RPM one. You're better off with a cast iron 70 340 intake than a standard performer.

If you still want to switch out manifolds, please let me know. I'm looking for an LD340 for a Duster 340 car.

Thanks
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moper said:
Everything stated here is dead on.
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I agree with the 2 above posts, lock stock and 4bbl.
No on the Performer, it has small (318) ports.
The RPM should be an air-gap even more so if it's more performance drivin. The regular RPM has the heat passage under the carb. Super Great for cool/cold weather street machines.
The MoPar dual plane M-1 is no slouch of an intake, but I would only use it in certain rare cases. It is a copy of the early 340 intakes in aluminum.
The M-1 single is a hi rpm part. Hood clearance is an issue.

Actually, I have a LD-340 (And a RPM-Air Gap) with the MoPar mods and port matched. It's a screamer of an intake. Love the big T-Q on top. Sooo, since you'll not be needing that, throw it up in the air like flowers from the bride and I"LL grab it first.

The intake can sell for about $200. All things dependent.
 
Well I was going to grab an air gap and was told by Don not to waste my money as for a street driven car it wouldn't be the best idea. He claims to many guys run them expecting the worlkd and hurt their performance from too cold/dense air fuel mixtures etc.

I've already put the rpm performer on just haven't driven the car yet. I still have my number smatchign 340 sleeping in the shed all wrapped up so have toi decide if I'm getting rid of the intake or leaving it for the 340 for the rainin g day I go factory.
 
I was told or read somewhere that your LD is the next best thing to the air gap, no, not worth changing. I took the stock intake off and put the air gap on my 340. With electronic ignition and a new carb it woke that baby up, I expect even more as soon as I get off my arse and intstal the tti headers. I have never heard anything but positive comments on the air gap.
 
thestover said:
I just had my original 340 rebuilt for my 69 swinger.Its 30 over with forged pistons new eagle rods,comp cam with 460/470 lift, original X heads redone,balanced all new arp bolts.I have the original exhaust manifolds and have an ld 340 intake.727 auto reworked with shiftkit. If I was going to put on a new intake what is the best one for a basically stock engine. I was told the ld 340 is old technology, and am considering either a edelbrock performer or air gap?Am I wasting my money or will I notice a difference. Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Don't waste you money - I've ran both LD340 and Airgap on the same engine and there was no noticable difference. If you have the space - add a 4 hole spacer 1/2"-1" and it should improve bottom end torque and maybe idle.
 
388dart said:
Don't waste you money - I've ran both LD340 and Airgap on the same engine and there was no noticable difference. If you have the space - add a 4 hole spacer 1/2"-1" and it should improve bottom end torque and maybe idle.
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Shhhhh, you're not supposed to say that!

Thestover, you're getting sleepy, very sleepy.... you are to sell crackedback you're LD340 for $50... crackedback, LD340, $50... (CLAP) You're awake now!!! :lol:
 
The LD340 is still about the best street manifold, with the RPM offering only a slight gain..............kim...............
 
I have been told they are as good as the LD340. Any comments?
 
Tarr said:
I have been told they are as good as the LD340. Any comments?
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Those intakes are pretty good from the factory. It's just that they are made out of Iron instead of Aluminum.
68-70 are squarebore (i think)
71 and up are spreadbore for the Thermoquad carbs.

A stock 340/360 intake is probably better then the Performer bacause they have larger ports. The Performer intake I think has the small 318 port size like the LB4B has

On another note, These were rencently on E-bay...
# 290125373484
Just sold for $130= shipping. Looked pretty good, but painted. You can find them off and on for a little more usually.

This one was $165 = shipping #180123917859
Almost looked like new except front water pump bypass fitting.

If I had the LD340, I wouldn't worry about buying another intake like the "air gap", especially for a street engine. Like was stated earlier, put a 1" spacer in it and fine tune it for your application.

Now if I had to buy another one I'd look for a air gap or LD340, which ever is cheaper at the time.
 
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